Few fruits have been as misunderstood as the quince. Fortunately, however, because fruits do not have egos, we do not have to consider psychotherapy for them. The truth is that even though the quince was once as well known as the apple or the grape, it lost favor with modern men and women largely because it is one of the few fruits that cannot be eaten raw. All of which is rather a shame because the combination of its sweet smell and tart flavor come together to make excellent jellies, jams, marmalade, syrups, compote and home-made liqueurs. And, for the more adventurous, quince can also be used as a complement to demi-glace sauce.

One of the best dishes I ever sampled that used this delicious fruit was a course prepared by chef Jean-Louis Palladin. After whole goose livers had been first singed over an open flame they were then seasoned with salt, pepper and fresh herbs and placed on a hot grill just until they were blackened on the exterior but remained perfectly pink inside. To maintain the maximum flavor, the goose livers were then cut in triangular wedges. Once ready, the wedges were served on a bed of quince puree that had been thinned somewhat, I believe, with red wine and garnished by quince sections that had been poached in rose wine. The sauce that accompanied the dish was a basic demi-glace that had been seasoned generously with thyme.

Pureed Quinces
A traditional Danish and French recipe

8 quinces, peeled
2 cups sugar
1 cup white wine
2 Tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. each salt, ginger and ground cloves
pinch of saffron

Into a saucepan with a large amount of rapidly boiling water drop the quinces. Reduce the flame and let simmer until the quinces are tender. Drain the quinces and puree them. Combine the puree in a saucepan with the remaining ingredients. Simmer until the puree has thickened enough to hold its shape on a spoon. Transfer to a glass serving plate and serve with individual spoons for each guest. (Serves 6).

Quince Compote
A traditional Jewish recipe

1 kilo quinces, peeled and sliced thinly
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice

Place the ingredients in a pot and pour over cold water just to cover. Bring to a boil, lower the flame and then cook on a low flame just until the quince acquire a light red tint. Serve hot, warm or cold. (Serves 8).

Quince Marmalade

about 1 kilo quince, peeled, cored, and cut in 1 centimeter rings
10 Tbsp. sugar

Place the quince in a saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer gently until the meat is tender (about 15 minutes). Drain.

Transfer the quince to a processor or blender and puree. Gradually beat in the sugar. Return to the saucepan and cook over low flame stirring often, for 20 minutes. Cool before placing in sterile bottles or crocks. (Yields about 1 cup of marmalade). Use as a garnish with pork chops, large cuts of pork or with veal dishes. Excellent when served with quails. Good for use in pastries.

Quince Liqueur

To make quince liqueur or ratafia, cut quinces into quarters, remove the seeds and shred the fruit without peeling. Place the quarters in a bowl, cover and let stand in a cool place for 3 days. Squeeze the juices through muslin and then measure the juices. Add an equal quantity of spirits. To every liter of the mixture add 1 1/2 cups of sugar and a small piece of cinnamon. Let stand in a large jar or crock for 2 months, opening every 2 weeks to let the gasses escape. Strain the liqueur through a muslin cloth and bottle.

© Daniel Rogov