The Louis XV has a maximum of 50 couverts for lunch and dinner. Portraits of Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry (two of King Louis' favorite mistresses) adorn the walls and, on a fine day or evening diners may choose to have their meals on the terrace, which offers a splendid view of Monte Carlo's Casino as well as a glimpse at the latest model Ferraris, Rolls Royces, Jaguars, Bugattis and Daimler autos of which some of the city's residents are so inordinately proud.

Whether one dines indoors or out, every table is set with a white linen tablecloth, which was ironed on the table. On those sit placemats and on each of those is a silver gilt under-plate. The dishes were designed by Christofle for the restaurant, and the underside of each plate bears the crest of King Louis and the signature of the chef. The cutlery has been polished by white- gloved assistants, and in addition to silver one will even find spoons and knives made of horn (caviar, it is said, oxidizes silverware). Including plates, glasses, cutlery and cups, each diner "mobilizes" fifty pieces of service. If one leaves the table for even an instant, his water glass and napkin will be replaced immediately.

Everything on the table, from candlesticks to napkin rings will be redecorated for the dessert course. The color pattern, of blue, white and gold was chosen by Ducasse himself, who also insists that the fresh bouquets of flowers brought in every day are in keeping with the offerings on his menu.

Ducasse's menu changes with the season. On most days the menu of the day includes 7 starters, 3 soups, 4 pasta or rice dishes, 8 fish and seafood dishes, 8 meat dishes, and 1 cheeseboard. The dessert menu lists 6 fruit dishes, 6 chocolate dishes, and a selection of ice creams, sorbets, and cookies. The fixed price "gourmet menu" offers simplified choices: 4 dishes, 1 cheese board and 2 desserts.

The wine cellars of the hotel hold more than 250,000 bottles. On a daily basis one may select from among 620 different wines of which 37 are grand crus and rare vintages and 16 are of beautiful and rare bottles. Mineral water is available from 16 different springs; coffees come from eight nations; and teas and infusions from 14 countries. Fifteen brands of fine cigars are offered. There are separate liqueur cellars, brandy cellars and cigar cellars.

Bread is an honored part of every meal at the Louis XV, and the bakery at the hotel turns out more than twenty unique breads and rolls every day. At every table, the maitre d'hotel will advise on which bread diners should choose to achieve a perfect combi- nation, always remembering that bread is an accessory to a meal and that neither its taste nor its aroma must overshadow any dish from Ducasse's kitchens.

Next to each table and well within the view of diners are small stools on which women can place their handbags or gloves.

If a client has forgotten his reading glasses, the maitre d'hotel will be happy to read the menu to him. Alternatively, the res- taurant has a wide selection of spare reading glasses from which any diner may borrow the pair bet suited to his sight.

The service in the restaurant is fast and responsive but the average dinner takes 2 - 3 hours.

Each diner can keep own menu, duly inscribd with the date, and printed on special Louis XV crested cards.

© Daniel Rogov