In recent weeks, for reasons completely inexplicable, I have been inundated with requests for several goose liver dishes. Personally, I have no problem at all with this because I concur with
Brillat-Savarin in that "foie gras may be the essence of fine dining" and many of the dishes prepared from this delicacy are fit food for the gods.

Following are three recipes, each from a well known chef, and each of which I have sampled in recent months. What can I say other than that each is superb!!!! Before we get into the recipes, however, a few notes:

1. Serving pate or terrine de foie gras with cranberry jam or jelly is a North American habit.
Admirable perhaps, but if you want to do it in the more traditional French way, be sure to have plenty of butter on the table (the French wisely unconcerned with cholesterol, spread their toast croutons with butter before putting the pate on). The pate can also be served a concoction more French such as the Sauternes-Onion Marmalade for which I have also given a recipe

2. Keep in mind that any recipe calling for goose liver can also use either fattened duck livers or the
fattened livers of the mulard (an exquisite cross between a Moscovy and Pekin duck).

3. The recipe that follows can be made with either Sauternes wine or Cognac. In either case, the ideal
wine match will be a sweet white dessert wine from Sauternes, Barsac or Australia.

4. In an article posted some time ago (http://www.stratsplace.com/rogov/cooking_goose_liver.html ) I had said that I never make terrine or pate de foie gras at home. Since discovering chef Bill Telapan's superb recipe, I have managed to bend that rule considerably!

Pate de Foie Gras
More correctly Terrine de Foie Gras
A recipe by chef Bill Telepan

1 goose liver, about 1 lb. 2 oz.
1 tsp. salt
pinch of sugar
1/4 cup or Sauternes wine (can substitute other sweet white dessert wine) or Cognac
salt and white pepper to taste
Sauternes-onion Marmalade (optional, for serving) (see recipe that follows)

Season the foie gras (goose liver) with salt, pepper and sugar. Line a shallow bowl with plastic wrap, drizzle half of the Cognac or Sauternes in the bowl, add the goose liver and drizzle over the remaining Cognac or Sauternes. Refrigerate overnight.

Remove the goose liver from the oven and let stand at room temperature for 15 - 20 minutes. Pack the foie gras into the terrine mold, pressing well to make sure there are no air pockets. Wrap the entire mold in two layers of plastic rap and place in a larger baking dish. Fill the dish with warm water that will come two-thirds up the side of the terrine. Cook the terrine in an oven that has been preheated to 275 degrees Fahrenheit until the internal temperature reaches 10 degrees (30 - 40 minutes).

Remove the plastic wrap from the terrine andcarefully pour off the fat from the top of the terrine, reserving the fat in a separate container. Cut a piece of cardboard that will fit exactly into the inside of the mold. Wrap the cardboard in plastic wrap and place it on top of the terrine pressing gently to remove all of the air bubbles. Discard the wrapped cardboard and set a heavy wood black, a second terrine or even a brick on top of the terrine to weigh down the liver. Pour off any excess fat and then pour some of the reserved fat over the terrine, using just enough to seal the foie gras so that no liver is exposed to the air. Let stand under the weight, refrigerated, for 24 - 48 hours before serving.

To serve, soice the terrine into six or twelve slices, place one or two slices in the center of each of six plates. Place a spoonful of sauternes-orange marmelade of cranberry jam (only of the highest quality)
Alongside the terrine. Optionally, one can also sprinkle the slices over with small amounts of toasted, peeled and finely chopped hazelnuts and finely chopped chives.

Sauternes-Onion Marmalade

2 medium onions, peeled and sliced paper thin (ideall with a mandoline)
2 oz. butter, cut in small cubes
1/2 tsp. coarse salt
1/4 cup Sauternes (or other sweet white dessert wine)

Melt the butter in a saucepan set over a low heat. Add the onions and salt and cover the pan. Cook over the lowest possible heat until the onions are tender (1 1/2 - 2 hours), stirring occasionally. Force the onions through a fine strainer into a small bowl and then squeeze well to eliminate the excess butter. Place the strained onions back in the pan, add the Sauternes and simmer until the onions have a syrup-like consistency. Taste and season with additional salt if necessary.

Hot Goose Liver with Figs and Raspberry Vinegar
Israel Aharoni

4 slices of fresh goose liver. each about 2 cm. thick
2 Tbsp. chives, cut thinly
salt and freshly ground pepper
For the figs:
6 purple figs, halved
3 tsp. melted butter
3 tsp. of sugar
freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce:
1/2 cup raspberry vinegar
2 Tbsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. fresh ginger, chopped
1/2 tsp. coriander seeds, crushed
On the cut part of each fig, spoon over 1/2 tsp. the melted butter and on that sprinkle 1/2 tsp. of the sugar. Overall sprinkle just a bit of black pepper.
Prepare the sauce: Put all ingredients in small saucepan, cook and reduce until the sauce thickens somewhat. Strain and keep warm.
Heat a stick-prook skillet over a high flame. Salt and pepper the goose liver slices and when the skillet is hot, place the slices in it and fry on both sides until browned and crispy. Set aside to keep warm.
Place the fig halves under a preheated hot grill, cut sides up, until they surfaces caramalize gently.
Place three of the fig halves on each of four serving plates, and on these place the goose liver. Around this pour the sauce, spreading just a bit of the sauce on the liver itself. Sprinkle over the chopped chives and serve at once. (Serves 4).

Terrine de Foie Gras
Goose Liver Terrine
Moise Pe'er

1 goose liver, about 1 kilo
1 kilo goose fat
For the marinade:
1/2 cup Cognac
1/2 cup dry Sherry
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. white pepper
2 sprigs fresh tarragon
4 whole cloves
Place the goose liver in a casserole dish just slightly larger than the liver. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together, pour these over the liver, cover with aluminum foil and let marinate in the refrigerator for 12 hours.
In a skillet melt the goose fat and pour this over the liver. Place the baking pan holding the liver in a larger baking pan, pour in water that comes to about 1/2 the height of the
Melt 1 kilo of goose fat and pour this over the liver. Place the casserole dish in a baking pan, fill with water to about one half the height of the casserole dish and place in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius until the liver has been cooked through (about 20 minutes).
Let the liver cool and then refrigerate for 24 hours. Remove the liver from the casserole dish, wipe off all of the fat and cut in thick slices. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov