Call them mussels or call them moules as you will, but since the time of the Pharaohs, few of the tidbits that have come from the sea have so pleased so many people. Several hints are in order, however, before going on to prepare them. First of all, keep in mind that no matter how tasty they may be, a small percentage of people are allergic to mussels and clams and should avoid eating them. Second, unless you're in the mood for a serious upset, be sure to discard any whose shells do not open during the cooking process.

Following are several of my favorite mussel-based recipes. As might be expected, because they are so beloved a dish in the Mediterranean Basin, the recipes come from Spain, France, Greece and the Middle East.

Mussels in Vinaigrette
Spanish - Majillones a la Vinagretta

24 - 30 medium mussels, in their shells
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. each onion and pimiento, choped finely
2 tsp. capers
1 slice lemon
salt and pepper to taste

In a mixing bowl combine the oil, vinegar, onion, pimiento, capers, parsley and salt and pepper. Set aside.

Under cold running water scrub the mussels thoroughly, cutting off the beards and discarding those that do not close tightly. To a skillet with 1 cup of water and the lemon slice, add the mussels. Bring to a boil. Remove the mussels as they open and let stand to cool. Remove the mussels from their shells and add to the bowl with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Reserve half of the shells, clean well and store in the refrigerator in a sealed plastic bag.

To serve replace the mussels in the reserved shells and over each spoon a small amount of the marinade. Serve cold. (Serves 4 - 6 as a first course).

Mussels in White Wine
French - Moules Mariniere

3 quarts (3 liters) mussels in their shells
1 cup butter
1 cup dry white wine
8 shallots, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp. black pepper

In a skillet melt the butter and in this saute the shallots and garlic until golden brown. Remove the garlic cloves.

In a deep heavy skillet cook the white wine, pepper and bay leaf on a moderate flame for 2 - 3 minutes. Add the butter, sauteed shallots and mussels and cover tightly. Cook on a high flame, agitating regularly, until the shells open (about 6 - 8 minutes). Pour the cooked mixture into a preheated bowl and garnish with the parsley. Serve immediately. (Serves 4 as a main course).

Fish Stew
Suquet
A traditional dish from Catalania

1 dozen each medium mussels and large clams
1 thick lemon slice
1 1/2 cups fish stock or clam juice
6 Tbsp. dry white wine
1/2 cup olive oil
6 -8 cloves garlic, sliced
4 slices French bread, about 1/4" (1/2 cm.) thick
salt and pepper to taste
12 blanched almonds, lightly toasted
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
several strands of saffron
1/2 tsp. hot paprika or more to taste
1 Tbsp. flour
1 1/4 lb. (575 gr.) each halibut and cod steaks, boned, skinned and cut in 1 1/2"m(4 cm.) pieces
2 Tbsp. peas

Place the mussels and clams in a saucepan with the lemon slice and pour over about 3/4 cup of water. Bring to the boil and remove the mussels and clams as they open, discarding any that do not open. Strain the cooking liquid and add these liquids and the white wine to the fish stock. Remove the meat from the clams and mussels and cut each in half. Set aside.

In a shallow earthenware casserole heat the oil and in this saute the garlic until it just begins to brown. With a slotted spoon remove and reserve the garlic. In the oil fry the bread slices until nicely browned on both sides. In a food processor or with a mortar and pestle combine and pound together the garlic and bread. Grind in as well the salt, almonds, parsley and saffron until the mixture forms a paste. Add the paprika, flour and 1/4 cup of the fish stock and beat until the mixture is smooth Transfer to a mixing bowl and gradually pour in the remaining fish stock.

Return the mixture to the casserole, bring to the boil, add the fish, peas, salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer for 10 - 12 minutes. Add the clam and mussels, heat through, stirring regularly and serve hot in soup bowls. (Serves 4 - 6 as a main course.)

Seafood Paella
Spanish - Paella Marinera

7 cups chicken or fish stock (ideally home-made)
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs each of parsley, and thyme and 1 bay leaf
1 medium onion, whole
1/2 cup olive oil
2 lobsters, about 1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) each, split and divided into sections
about 1 lb (450 gr.) shrimp, shelled
about 1 lb (450 gr.) halibut steak, boned and cut in 1" (2 1.2 cm.) cubes
3 medium squid (calamari), cleaned and cut in rings
1 medium tomato, peeled and chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cups short-grain rice
1/2 cup peas
1/2 tsp. saffron
salt and pepper to taste
2 - 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 pimiento, cut in strips
18 each small mussels and clams, well scrubbed (can use either all mussels or all clams)
2 tbs. parsley, chopped finely
lemon wedges for garnish

In a saucepan heat together the stock with the bouquet garni and whole onion. Bring to a boil, reduce the flame and let simmer for 15 - 20 minutes. Strain and reserve 6 cups of the stock.

In a paella pan or large saucepan heat the oil and in this saute together the lobster and shrimp. When the shrimp turn pink remove with a slotted spoon and saute the lobster 2 - 3 minutes longer. Remove and set aside to keep warm.

Add the halibut cubes to the pan and saute for 1 - 2 minutes. Remove and set aside to keep warm. In the remaining oil saute the squid over a high flame. Lower the flame to medium and add the chopped onion, sauteeing until the onion is translucent. Add the tomato and continue to cook until most of the tomato liquid has been absorbed.

Stir in the rice and stir well to coat with the oil. Add the reserved fish stock, peas, saffron and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the boil and boil uncovered until the rice is no longer soupy but some liquids remain (about 10 minutes). Add the garlic, shrimp, halibut and pimiento. Over all arrange the lobster and push the mussels and clams into the rice, hinge side down.

Bake in a low oven until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is nearly done. Remove from the oven, cover lightly with aluminum foil and let stand 10 minutes. Immediately before serving sprinkle over with the parsley and garnish with lemon wedges. Serves 8.

Olives with Spiced Mussels
A traditional dish from the Middle-East

1 lb. (450 gr.) large green olives, pitted
20 - 24 mussels, trimmed, removed from their shells and chopped coarsely (can also use clams)
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 hot red chili peppers, chopped (or 1/2 tsp. dried and chopped)
2 cloves garlic, chopped

In a skillet heat the olive oil and in this saute the mussels and garlic until the mussels are tender. Add the chopped peppers and saute for 2 minutes longer. With a slotted spoon remove the mussels and bits of garlic and pepper. Drain on paper toweling to remove excess oil.

Fill each of the olive cavities with the mixture. Serve hot. (Serves 6 - 8 as part of an antipasti platter)

Baked Mussels with Mushrooms
Spain - Mejilones al Horno

48 medium mussels, well scrubbed
1 thick slice lemon
14 cup each butter and flour
1 cup milk
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
pinch saffron
white pepper to taste
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/2 lb. (225 gr.) mushrooms, sliced
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
butter as required

Place the mussels in a large heavy skillet and pour over 1 cup of cold water. Add the lemon slice, bring to a boil and remove the mussels as they open, discarding the shells and any mussels that do not open. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquids.

Prepare a white sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan and into this stirring the flour and cooking briefly, stirring constantly. Slowly pour in the reserved cooking liquor, milk, lemon juice, saffron and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick and smooth. Add the egg yolks to the sauce and over a low flame, stirring regularly, cook until the sauce is thickened.

Place the mussels and mushrooms in a baking dish, pour over the sauce, sprinkle with the grated cheese and dot with butter. Bake in a very hot oven until bubbly and lightly browned (about 10 minutes). Place under a hot broiler for 2 additional minutes. Serve piping hot. (Serves 3 - 4 as a first course or 6 - 8 as a main course).

Fish Soup
Greece - Soupa Kakavia

3 1/2 lb. (1 1/2 kilo) fish heads and tails
12 whole peppercorns
1 tsp. salt
4 1/2 lb. (2 kilo) of any combination of snapper, bream, whiting, eel and mullet, cut I
into 2" (5 cm) slices
lemon juice as required
1/2 cup olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
2 leeks, white parts only, chopped
1 cup carrots, chopped
1 cup celery, with leaves, chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 1/2 cups tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 4 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme and 2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 lb. (675 gr.) very small potatoes, peeled
1 lb. (450 gr.) shrimp, in their shells
1 lb. (450 gr.) mussels, in their shells
lemon wedges for serving

In a large kettle with 10 cups of cold water, place the fish heads, tails and backbones with the peppercorns and 1 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, lower the flame and simmer gently, covered, for 2 hours, being carefully not to boil again. Strain and reserve this stock.

Sprinkle the fish pieces with lemon juice and set aside until ready for use.

In a heavy kettle or skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion, leeks carrots, celery and garlic until the onions are lightly golden. To this add the tomatoes, reserved fish stock and bouquet garni. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover and simmer for 1/2 hour. Add the potatoes, bring to a boil and let boil for 8 - 10 minutes. Again reduce the flame, add the fish pieces and simmer for 3 - 5 minutes. Add the shrimps and mussels and simmer, but do not boil, just until the shrimp have turned pink and the clams have opened.

Transfer the soup and equal portions of potatoes and fish to deep soup bowls. Garnish with parsley and serve with lemon wedges. (Serves 8 - 10 as a soup course or 6 as a main course).

Spaghetti with Mussels and Clams
Italy - Spaghetti Rachelle

2 - 3 Tbsp. butter
6 shallots, chopped
1 clove garlic, halved
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 bay leaf
1 1/2 quarts (11/2 liters) mussels in their shells
1 1/2 quarts (1 1/2 liters) small clams or cockles (vongole), in their shells
1 lb. (450 gr.) spaghetti
12 black olives, pitted and halved
grated Parmesan cheese for serving

In a large skillet melt the butter and in this saute the shallots and garlic until the garlic is golden-brown. Discard the garlic halves.

In a deep heavy skillet cook all but 2 Tbsp. of the wine and the bay leaf for 2 - 3 minutes. Add the sauteed shallots, the butter from the skillet, the mussels and the clams. Cover tightly and cook over a medium high flame, agitating the pan frequently, until the shells open (6 - 8 minutes). With a slotted spoon remove the mussels and clams. Reserve the liquid in the skillet

In a large saucepan bring to a boil lightly salted water in which the spaghetti is to be cooked. Into this pour the liquids from the skillet, add the spaghetti, cover and cook until the spaghetti is done.

Remove the mussels and clams from their shells and place these in a saucepan with 2 Tbsp. white wine. To this add the olive halves and, several minutes before the spaghetti is done, heat these gently until warm. After draining the spaghetti, pour the mixture over the spaghetti and serve hot. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov