The Name of the Rose
Three Very Special Tastings

As in literature, the cinema or any art form, different works or creations are interpreted in different ways by different people. That does not mean that anyone has to be "wrong". What it does mean is that beyond a certain basic set of criteria for judging, individual interpretation has an important role to play in the evaluation of any human experience. In recent days, I undertook a series of tastings - in this case of the wines to be offered at three different special tasting events at the New York Wine Tasting Experience sponsored by the Wine Spectator Magazine. As always, my tastings were made blind and my notes completely finalized before checking to see what the Spectator people had to say about the same wines. In some cases the similarities in our perceptions are striking, in other cases it is our disagreements that came to the fore. Those who want to compare my notes with those of the Spectator can find the Wine Spectator notes by using their search mechanism at:
http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Spectator/notes

On one thing I concur fully with the Spectator Staff - every one of the wines to be tasted, whether at two Grand Tastings or at these three special tastings, is excellent and interesting and attending these tastings, if at all possible will be an unmitigated pleasure for those who love wine. The NY Wine Tasting Experience, which also celebrates the 25th Anniversary of the Spectator, will take place from Thursday, 25 October to Saturday, 27 October New York's Marriot Marquis Hotel and further information can be found at: http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Spectator/wine_experience2001/nywe.html

Tasting #1 - The 10 Best of 2000 As Selected by the Wine Spectator

Antinori, Solaia, 1997: The very best Solaia and one of the very best Tuscan wines ever made. Antinori's unique blend between Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc grapes, this still young wine already shows superb balance between smooth tannins, fruits (black currants, cherries, plums), spices and vanilla. Full bodied and with flavors that explode on the palate and then linger on and on, seemingly without end, this is the stuff of which dreams are made. Score 97. (Tasted three times, 12 Jul and 27 Aug 2000 and 9 Sept 2001)

Viader, Napa Valley, 1997: An extraordinary and exquisite marriage between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc but most assuredly a Californian and not a French wine. Medium to full bodied, with plenty of currants, black cherries and oak, nice hints of coffee and Mediterranean herbs. If you must drink the wine now let it open in the glass for at least 20 minutes. Perfectly balanced and with tannins that are already starting to soften, the wine can be approached now, but ideally it will be set aside for four or five years before starting to drink. After that look forward to fine drinking until about 2010.
Score 95. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Whitehall Lane, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1997: Rich and concentrated, this still young wine shows a delicious base of plums and currants all set along a pot-pourri of herbs, spices, chocolate and coffee, all of which come together harmoniously. With flavors that linger on and on, the wine is fully ready for drinking now but will cellar nicely for another decade. Score 96. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Le Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1998: If there is a term for this wine it is "wild". Wild, but delicious, firm tannins, wild game, wild flowers, wild berries, freshly ground cocoa and coffee beans all blending together in flavors that seem to explode on the palate. Even though it already shows a beautiful sweet finish, the tannins still tend to dominate. Hold for 3 - 4 more years and then drink until about 2015. About $30.00 in the U.S.A. Score 95+. (Tasted 14 May and 9 Sept 2001)

Joseph Phelps Insignia, Napa Valley, 1997: As always, even though this wine is a typical Bordeaux Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), no one will think that it came from anywhere but California. Perhaps the best Insignia ever made, this full bodied wine has a deep amber color and contains layer after layer of aromas and flavors that seem to burst forth on the palate as it sits in the mouth. Look especially for currants, black cherries, wild berries and a collection of herbs and spices including tea, sage, ginger and, to add charm, hints of dark chocolate. With flavors that linger on and on on the palate, this truly superb wine can be approached now but will be at its best only in another three years, and even then continue to develop in the bottle for another decade or more. Price in the United States, about $125. Score: 97. (Tasted 7 Dec 2000 and 10 Sept 2001)

Justin Isosceles Paso Robles 1997: Oddly enough, I tasted the 1998 version of this wine (which earned a score of 96+) before I got to the 1997, but that's just fine with me because both wines, blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are in a class of their own. Aged in oak for more than 24 months, the 1997 wine is absolutely packed with currant, plum, black cherry fruits, lovely spicy overtones and, as I have found before in this wine, an earthy truffle-like essence that floats its way through as the wine is sipped. Perfectly balanced and with tannins that are still marked but already smooth, this superb wine can be approached now but should be held for at least 2 - 3 more years. Look forward after that to cellaring it until 2010 - 2012. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Chateau La Nerthe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee des Cadettes, 1998: Complex and elegant, with layer after layer of ripe fruits, spices, coffee, leather, truffles and even hints of citrus and hazelnuts in its flavors and aromas, this full bodied and remarkably powerful wine shows the kind of perfect balance that bodes well for long-term aging. As the wine does age, it will become even more lush and will show beautiful gamey notes. If you have a case or more in your cellar, I will forgive you for being curious enough to drink one now, but the wine will be at its best only in another 5 - 6 years. Count on it to cellar well through 2030 or even longer. The wine is currently going for about $82.50 in the United States and worth every hard earned penny that you have to spend for it! Score 97+. (Tasted 20 Apr 2001)

Merryvale, Profile, Napa Valley, 1997: Absolutely packed with upfront cherry, berry, plum, vanilla, wild berry flavors and aromas and with loads of tannins, this wine sits beautifully on the palate and then lingers on and on. Look for enchanting hints of mint in the aftertaste of this superb wine. Hold for another two to three years, and then until about 2010 or longer. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri Ornellaia, 1997: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this full bodied wine is little short of magnificent. Full bodied and loaded with black cherry, chocolate and oak flavors that open, seemingly without end in the mouth. Elegant and sumptuous, the wine is approachable now but will develop nicely in the bottle for many years to come. Score 97.
(Tasted 12 Oct 2000 and 9 Sept 2001)

Castello dei Rampolla, Tuscana Sammarco, 1997: A truly great full bodied wine from a truly great Tuscany vintage year. So deep in color that you might even think it was inky black, but with aromas and flavors of currants, wild berries and mint and a finish so crisp that it will call to mind minerals and precious stones. Hold for at least three more years before starting to drink it and then expect it to develop nicely for another five years after that. Score 95+. (Tasted 6 Dec 2000 and 9 Sept 2001)

Tasting # 2 - Ten Wines from The Superb Italian Vintage of 1997

Aldo Conterno, Barolo, Vigna Cicala, 1997: Made as it always is, entirely from Nebbiolo grapes, this full bodied wine has deep, rich flavors of blackberries, plums, black cherries and herbs, all coming together with light mineral overtones. Despite its youth, approachable now but the wine will only be at its best in another 3 - 4 years, and will then cellar well for a decade or so longer. Score 94. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Allegrini, La Poja, Verona, 1997: One of the greatest wines ever made in this region and perhaps the best ever from Allegrini. Full bodied, concentrated and with enormous depth, this well balanced and delicious wine boasts flavors and aromas of black cherries, plums all with herbal, smoky overtones. Hold for another 2 - 3 years and then look forward to exquisite drinking until about 2007. Score 96.
(Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Antinori, Tignanello, 1997: Piero Antinori often produces excellent wines but this one is exquisite. Made, as it always is, from about 80% of Sangiovese and 20% of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this full bodied wine is blessed with superb balance between its smooth tannins, fruitiness (look for currants, wild berries, and stewed black cherries) and vanilla. With flavors and aromas that open in the glass and on the palate, and then linger on and on, seemingly without end, this is a wine to be treasured as one of Tuscany's very finest. Drink now if you must but ideally hold for another 3 - 5 years before starting to sample its charms. Score 97. (Tasted three times, 12 Jul and 25 Aug 2000 and 9 Sept 2001)

Barone Ricasoli, Casalferro, 1997: Medium bodied and with smooth tannins and flavors and aromas of fruits, herbs and even pleasing hints of chocolate and tobacco, this delightful wine will make an excellent accompaniment to osso buco, Florentine beefsteak and other rich beef dishes. Score 89. (Tasted 10 Oct 2000 and 9 Sept 2001)

Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico, Bellavista, 1997: The first wine I had from this marvelous Chianti producer was their 1990 and to date I have yet to find Chianti Classico that more enchants me. And what is unusual is that this has been true every year! Full bodied and with aromas and flavors of berries, cherries, wild flowers, minerals and spices that open beautifully on the palate. Smooth tannins and flavors that linger beautifully make the wine drinkable now but you will do well to hold it and drink between 2003 - 2007. Score 93. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Fattoria Le Pupille, Saffredi, Tuscana, 1997: The term Super-Tuscan is too often abused, but in this case it applies 100%. A blend, I believe of primarily Cabernet with some Sangiovese, this full bodied and complex wine is still in its infancy - loaded with tannins but with plenty of dark fruit, herbs and hints of tobacco and lead pencil aromas and flavors, all of which come together beautifully. The wine needs time, so hold it for at least 2 - 3 more years before starting to drink it. Score 96. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Foradori, Granato, Teroldego Rotaliano, 1997: Like the 1996 and 1998 wines I had tasted earlier, this one comes from the Rotaliano area (not far from Trentino and Alto-Adige in northeast Italy) and made entirely from Teroldego grapes. Full bodied, and so deep in color that you might be tempted to think of it as somewhere between deep purple and black, and with an abundance of cherry, blackberry and oaky flavors, with hints of herbs and mint. The 1996 and the 1998 wines both earned scores of 91+ but this one easily tops them, its exquisite balance predicting its ability to age for 10 - 15 years. Still tannic so let the wine develop for another 3 - 4 years before trying it. Score 94. (Tasted 9 and 10 Sept 2001)

Gaja, Barbaresco, San Lorenzo, 1997: A fabulous Piedmont wine, with layer after layer of fruits and flowers that unfold on the palate. Full bodied, compact and very well balanced and with flavors that linger on and on. Set aside for at least 5 years and then look forward to good drinking until 2010 - 2015. Score 95. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri Ornellaia, 1997: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this full bodied wine is little short of magnificent. Full bodied and loaded with black cherry, chocolate and oak flavors that open, seemingly without end in the mouth. Elegant and sumptuous, the wine is approachable now but will develop nicely in the bottle for many years to come. Score 97.
(Tasted 12 Oct 2000 and 9 Sept 2001)

Tenuto San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia, 1997: There is a certain movement afoot of those who tend to dismiss Sassicaia as a "once-was". What can I say, except that Sassicaia still is and promises to go on being for quite a while and this wine demonstrates that beautifully. Royal purple in color, this full bodied wine has exquisite balance between smooth tannins, fruits and natural acids. Look for currants, wild berries, rosemary, mint and oregano in the aromas of this elegant and delicious wine and then look for flavors that continue to unfold on the palate long after the wine has been swallowed. The wine should be at its best between 2004 - 2010, and that best is just fine with me. Score 94+. (Tasted 9 Sept 2001)

Tasting #3 - 10 Great California Wines from Great Vintage Years

As a side note, anyone who thinks that it was simple matter putting together this collection of California wines has another guess coming. Some of the smaller wineries have mailing lists and allocations so stingy that it took cajoling and pleading before we could find some of them. Nor was there a shortage of problems in locating some of the older vintage years. In the end, however, it was all worth it, as these ten do represent some of the very best you will find from the Golden Gate State.

Lewis, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Reserve 1997: Plenty of black cherry, currant, plum and mint flavors make this a highly extracted, intense and delicious wine. With just the right overtones of earthiness and minerals and even a hint of lead pencils, this wine is drinking nicely already but will be at its best only in another 3 - 4 years and will then cellar well until 2008 - 2010. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Peter Michael, Les Pavots, Knights Valley, 1996: Sonoma County at its cutting edge. With finesse, elegance and just the right touch of boldness, this delicius red offers up plenty in the way of spices, anise, cedar, currant and berry flavors that linger nicely on the palate. Despite its youth, drinking beautifully now and the wine will cellar well for another 6 - 8 years. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, Eisele Vineyard 1995: Rich, concentrated and elegant, with excellent ripe plum, currant and black cherry flavors and aromas all complemented nicely by well integrated vanilla, coffee and oak flavors. The somewhat tough tannins that the wine showed during its youth have turned softer and the wine shows excellent all-round balance. Drinking beautifully now but should hold its own for another 6 - 8 years. Score 95. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Joseph Phelps, Insignia, Napa Valley, 1994: Insignia has always been a source of pride for Phelps and this one is no exception. Rich, remarkably smooth and temptng, with black cherry, currant, anise, olive and light oak/cedar flavors and aromas, this harmonious and delicious wine is drinking beautifully now but will cellar nicely for another 4 - 5 years. Score 94. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Arrowood, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, Réserve Spéciale, 1993: Fascinating and concentrated, with flavors and aromas ranging from those of currants, berries, cherries and spices to chocolate, tobacco and smoky oak. Complex and deep, with flavors that linger on and on, an exceptional endeavor. Drinking well now. Score 95. (Tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Private Reserve, 1991: Still remarkably young, this deep royal purple wine is still quite tannic but shows the kind of balance that winemakers (and wine lovers) dream about. In addition to an abundance of fruit, look for chocolate, tobacco and earthy flavors and aromas in this elegant and complex wine. Drinking well now but the wine will cellar well for another 8 - 10 years and perhaps even longer. Score 97. (Most recently tasted 10 Sep 2001)

Caymus, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Special Edition, 1990: Medium to full bodied, deep royal purple in color and with elegant flavors of black and red currants, cherries, coffee, tobacco and a tantalizing hint of sweetness that comes in at the long finish. Drinking beautifully now but still with another 6 - 8 years go to. Score 94. (Most recently tasted 10 Sep 2001)

Opus One, Napa Valley, 1987: Owned jointly by Robert Mondavi and the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, the debate goes on over whether this is one of America's best wines or whether it is merely a wine that has had a remarkably good public-relations campaign. Taste this wine, however, perhaps the best ever made by Opus One and the argument becomes unimportant. Remarkably concentrated and with complex black currant, raspberries, violets, licorice and cigar box flavors and aromas. When I first tasted this wine in 1990, I estimated that it would live comfortably until 2002 - 2004. How nice it is to be proven right, for the wine is now drinking beautifully, demonstrates that it still has a few more very good years, and continues to earn its score of 94. (Most recently tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Ridge, Cabernet Sauvignon, Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, 1985: Maturing with grace and dignity, and now showing aromas and flavors of cassis, licorice, lead pencils, and with still firm but silky tannins and just bare hints of the wood casks in which it matured, you might easily be forgiven for thinking that this was a fine Bordeaux, perhaps even a Pauillac red. Whatever, the wine has superb balance and even though it is now drinking well, it promises to go on comfortably for another 15 - 20 years. If you've got any of this one on hand, consider yourself very fortunate indeed. Score 96. (Most recently tasted 10 Sept 2001)

Robert Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Reserve, 1978: In its youth, this exquisite wine had tough tannins that announced loudly that they needed time to balance out. I was not afraid, however, for the wine was so well balanced that it was just a question of time. When I tasted it in 1988, I found the wine still a bit too young to drink, and in 1998 found that it was at its peak. Happily, that peak has lasted and the wine now shows mature but still rich flavors of currants now overlaid by mint, tobacco and hints of chocolate. Complex and smooth, but fully ready and not up to further laying down. Score 95.

© Daniel Rogov