Following are recipes for several of the dishes for which the New Orleans kitchen is justifiably famous. Because dining New Orleans style is ideally suited to large groups, the following recipes are designed to serve 18. If you should wish to prepare less, just reduce the amounts proportionately.

Spiced Shrimp

3 kilos shrimp, in their shells
cider vinegar or wine vinegar as required
1/2 cup celery leaves, chopped coarsely
16 black peppercorns, lightly crushed
1/4 cup salt or more to taste
5 whole bay leaves
2 tsp. Tabasco sauce

Place the shrimp in a large saucepan and cover with a mixture of 2/3 vinegar to 1/3 boiling water. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer for 10 - 12 minutes and remove from the flame. Let cool for 15 minutes and then refrigerate for 2 - 3 hours before serving. Drain and serve the shrimp in a plate set over crushed ice. Serve as an appetizer.

Fish and Shrimp Gumbo

6 Tbsp. butter
6 medium onions, chopped
6 Tbsp. flour
12 cups chicken stock
12 large tomatoes, chopped and strained
2 liters okra, thinly sliced
1 1/2 kilos raw shrimp, peeled
1 1/2 kilo fillets of any firm fleshed salt water fish, cut in 2 1/2 cm. cubes
6 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

In a large heavy pan melt the butter and in this saute the onions until golden. Add the flour and stir until well blended. Add the stock, strained tomatoes, okra and shrimp. Simmer over a low flame, stirring occasionally until the okra is tender. Add the fish cubes, season to taste with salt and pepper oysters, salt and pepper and continue to cook gently just until the fish is done. Sprinkle over with the parsley and serve immediately. Serve as an intermediate or soup course.

Blackened Fish
A recipe by renowned chef Paul Prudhomme's

Note: Because cooking this dish creates a good deal of smoke be sure to use the vent over your stove. If you do not have a vent, leave the windows open and use the best fan you have to force the smoke out. Even if you shed a few tears, however, the dish will have been worth it.

3 Tbsp. sweet paprika
2 Tbsp. salt
1 Tbsp. each onion powder, garlic powder and hot paprika
2 1/4 tsp. each black pepper and white pepper
1 1/2 teaspoon each dried thyme and dried oregano
18 fish fillets preferably red snapper or salmon, not more than 1 1/2 centimeters thick
3/4 kilo butter, melted or more if required

Heat several large very heavy cast iron skillets over a very high flame for at least 10 minutes. By that time the skillets should stop smoking and you will see white ash in the bottom of the skillets. The skillets cannot be too hot for this dish. Do not put any butter or oil in the skillet.

While the skillets are heating, combine all of the remaining ingredients except the fish and butter and mix together thoroughly. Dip each fish fillet in the melted butter so that both sides are well coated, and then sprinkle both sides of the fish generously with the seasoning mixture, patting the seasonings in by hand. Place several fish fillets in each hot skillet and pour 1 tsp. of the melted butter on top of each fillet (be careful, because the butter may flame up). Cook uncovered over a high flame until the underside of the fish looks charred (about 2 - 3 minutes). Turn the fish over and pour 1 more tsp. of butter on the top. Cook until the fish is done (about 2 minutes longer). Repeat with the remaining fillets. To serve, spoon 1 - 2 Tbsp. of the remaining butter over each fillet. Serve piping hot. .

Creole Pepper Steak

4 1/2 kilos flank steak, in several large pieces
1 1/2 tsp. each dried oregano and thyme
1 1/2 tsp. each hot paprika, ground cloves and garlic powder
3/4 tsp ground coriander
2 Tbsp. cracked pepper
salt to taste
12 cloves garlic, sliced
18 bay leaves, crushed
1/4 cup oil
1/4 cup butter, melted or more if necessary

Place the steaks on a cutting board. With a very sharp knife make shallow, diagonal cuts about 3 centimeters apart across the steak, creating a crisscross diamond design. Take care not to make the cuts too deep. Turn the steak and repeat on the second side. Combine the oregano, thyme, paprika, cloves, garlic powder coriander, pepper and salt and with this mixture rub the surface of the steak evenly on both sides. On one side distribute the bay leaves and sliced garlic and then roll the steaks. Cover and refrigerate for 2 - 3 hours.

Unroll the steaks and discard the sliced garlic and bay leaves. In a very heavy skillet heat the oil and butter together until they are very hot and in this fry the steaks, turning several times, until they are done. To serve, slice the meat very thinly. Serve hot.

Shrimp Creole

1 cup butter
2 1/2 kilos cooked shrimp, peeled
2 1/2 liters Creole sauce (recipe follows)
1 cup dry white wine
salt and pepper to taste
hot paprika pepper to taste
Tabasco sauce to taste
boiled rice for serving

In a heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the shrimp over a high flame for 2 - 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the Creole sauce and white wine, reduce the flame and allow to simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, cayenne and Tabasco and serve over boiled rice.

Creole Sauce

1/2 cup butter
4 large onions, chopped
30 green olives, pitted and chopped
8 cloves garlic, chopoed finely
1 3/4 liters very ripe tomatoes, chopped
2 1/4 cups chili sauce
2 1/4 cups green pepper, chopped
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
2 Tbsp. brown sugar
3 bay leaves
1/2 tsp. each thyme and hot paprika
1/4 cup dry sherry (optional)
salt to taste

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and in this cook, covered, the onions, olives and garlic for 2 - 3 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, uncover and cook until the sauce is thick (about 45 minutes), stirring occasionally. Yields about 2 liters of sauce.

Beef Tongue Creole

4 fresh beef tongues, about 1 kilo each
8 onions, whole
8 large carrots, whole
12 ribs celery, with leaves
24 sprigs parsley
40 peppercorns
2 liters Creole sauce (recipe above)

In a large kettle place the tongue, onions, carrots, celery, parsley and peppercorns and pour over boiling water to barely cover. Simmer, uncovered until the tongue is tender (about 3 hours), drain and skin the tongue. Trim off the extra fat. Let the tongue cool for at least 45 minutes before slicing.

Place the slices in a lightly greased casserole and pour over about 2/3 of the sauce. Bake in a medium hot oven for 1/2 hour and serve piping hot with the remaining sauce served separately.

Seafood Jambalaya

12 medium tomatoes
12 slices bacon or fatty smoked goose breast, diced
3/4 cup onion, chopped
3 Tbsp. flour
9 cups cooked rice
about 3 kilos cooked shrimp, cut into large dice
1 1/2 tsp. thyme
salt, black pepper and Tabasco to taste
6 Tbsp. parsley, chopped, for garnish

Immerse the tomatoes in boiling water, return to the boil and let boil for 1 - 2 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water and peel. Halve the tomatoes, scoop out and discard the seeds.

In a large heavy skillet gently saute the bacon or goose breast and, when it is golden add the onion. Continue to saute until the onion is translucent. Stir in the flour, tomato pulp and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil and then stir in the cooked rice and shrimp. Season with the thyme, salt, pepper and Tabasco and mix well. Cook over a low flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture is on the verge of boiling. Serve at once garnished with the parsley.

Orange and Onion Salad

10 large oranges, peeled and sliced
3 large onions, sliced thinly
about 1 cup creamy vinaigrette sauce
lettuce leaves for serving

On the lettuce leaves arrange the orange slices alternatively and over this spoon the dressing. Serve slightly chilled.

Rice Fritters

Known as "callas", these sweet fritters are considered the ideal way to end any New Orleans meal. Serve with strong coffee, cafe royale or brandy.

3 cups rice, cooked
1 1/2 cups sugar
9 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup + 2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. baking powder
1 1/2 tsp. each vanilla extract and nutmeg
generous pinch of salt
confectioners' sugar for serving
deep oil for frying

Combine the rice, sugar, flour, eggs, baking powder, vanilla, nutmeg and salt. Mix well and let stand 15 - 20 minutes.

Preheat deep oil to 190 degrees Celsius and drop the batter into the oil in teaspoonfuls and fry until golden brown (5 - 7 minutes). To serve sprinkle generously with confectioners' sugar. Note: Many of the residents of New Orleans, where this dish originates, insist on serving their callas with quince or berry jam.

To read about the history of dining in New Orleans and for a list of my favorite restaurants in that charming city see the piece Whore Houses and Fine Dining by clicking here

© Daniel Rogov