It is said that the only city in the world to have developed a cuisine of its own is New Orleans. Because the city's social makeup has been flavored partly by the sophisticated culture of France, the sense of adventure of Spain and the easy-living style of the West Indies, many people find it difficult to realize that New Orleans is part of mainstream America. Populated heavily by blacks who are still strongly influenced by the West Indian three-caste system (the lighter the color of one's skin, the higher on the social hierarchy one can move), and by whites who still boast more of their European rather than American origins, the city has almost always specialized in pleasure before, during and after business.

No matter what other pleasures were available, food has always played a major role in the life of the city. During the 1800's one English visitor wrote saying that "the New Orleans Opera Company is the equal of that in Milan; the local whores are the most beautiful in all the world; and the food, which is served both at the Opera and at the whore houses, is simply magnificent". The truth of the matter is that the best New Orleans' restaurants, some of which opened as early as 1820 and are still in business, nearly all started as adjuncts to the whore houses. Even today, several prestigious restaurants will be found on the ground floor and mezzanine of buildings that house luxurious and expensive "houses of pleasure".

Since 1800 the culinary patterns of the city have been well established. The Cajuns. descended from French-speaking immigrants who came from Nova Scotia, developed a style of cooking that combined the products of the New World with the cooking methods of France. The Creoles, mostly of mixed French or Spanish and Negro descent relied more on the cooking style of the Caribbean in which rice and tomatoes played a major role and in which meat and fish are heavily seasoned before being cooked on hot stones or in heavy iron skillets.

Among the most beloved dishes from the city are shrimp creole, spiced shrimps, blackened fish, oysters Rockefeller, lobster Newburg, seafood jambalaya and seafood gumbo. The dish known as Oysters Rockefeller is made by spooning a mixture of cooked spinach and sauteed onion over raw oysters. A pat of butter is then placed on each oyster and on this is placed a drop of onion juice a pinch of parsley and a few grains of hot pepper. Breadcrumbs are then sprinkled over, and another dot of butter is placed on the oysters just before they are baked.

The Right Mood For New Orleans Dining

Andrew Jackson, the seventh president of the United States wrote that "there are only three major dangers for young men who visit this otherwise delightful city - dueling, hanging and women". Dueling was once so popular a pastime that young author Horace Mann observed that "the locals have an idle habit of making small holes through their enemies at the distance of ten paces". Lynching was considered a legitimate form of justice for those who won too much money at cards and the women, in addition to being "fancy" were also members of the world's most efficient pickpocketing sorority in the world. Lynching went out of style in New Orleans in the 1930s; duels take place only two or three times a year these days; and the fancy ladies make enough money that they no longer feel the need for picking pockets. What has not changed, however, is the culinary excellence that is to be found in the most wealthy and even the poorest neighborhoods of the city.

Good drinking is part of any New Orleans feast, and tables should are invariably with a bottle of whiskey (bourbon is ideal, but Scotch whiskey is equally acceptable), a cold bottle of soda, and a large pitcher of ice cubes. Also on the table should be a large bucket filled with ice, bottles of beer, and, if desired, several bottles of white wine. When New Orleaners drink red wine, they always chill it lightly. Keep in mind that New Orleans is not so much famous for jazz as it is for Dixieland and this music makes an ideal background for such a dinner.

Several of My Favorite Restaurants in New Orleans

I am not going to claim that the following list represents the "best" of New Orleans dining. What the list does represent are the restaurants I most enjoy in the city.

Alex Patout's Louisiana Restaurant: 221 Royal Street. Tel 504 525-7788.
Cajun-Creole Cuisine that is absolutely lovely. Moderate to Expensive with very reasonable fixed-price lunches.

Bayona: 430 Rue Daupine. Tel 504 525-4455.
French/Mediterranean cuisine with a distinct New Orleans touch. Moderately priced and a great fun place to visit.

Brennan's: 417 Royal Street. Tel 504 525-9711.
Cajun and Creole with distinct French touches. A great wine list, with many wines at excellent prices.
Considered by many the best restaurant in the city. Moderate prices.

Cafe Giovanni: 117 Decatur Street. Tel 504 529-2157.
Italian food that is unique because of its distinct Cajun flavor. Moderate prices and a lovely place.

Delmonico Restaurant: 1300 St. Charles Avenue. Tel 504 525 4937.
Creole food in a great and old atmosphere. Long established and well beloved New Orleans institution.
Towards the expensive side but worth every cent you will spend.

Emeril's: 800 Tchoupitoulas. Tel 504 528-9393.
My candidate for the most exciting restaurant in the city today!!!!! Modern New Orleans cuisine that is out of this world!!!!!! Expensive for dinner but moderate for lunch. A truly excellent wine list.

Bistro Metro: in the Pelham Hotel. Tel 504 529-1900
French-Louisiana Bistro. Fun food, reasonable prices.

The Court of the Two Sisters: 613 Rue Royale. Tel 504 522-7271 Creole dining. Moderate prices.

For a collection of well beloved New Orleans recipes click here

© Daniel Rogov