Even though they were related to the royal family, none of the princes of Conde ever became kings of France. Despite this, for over three hundred years the Conde family has had a special place in the hearts of French men and women. In addition to being talented diplomats, successful generals and powerful merchants, the Condes, perhaps more than any other French family, was responsible for raising the quality of French cuisine to its extraordinary heights.

When the Duke of Aumale (the sixth prince of Conde) built his Chateau at Chantilly in the 16th century, he vowed that no other home in Europe would ever serve food as superb as that which would be prepared in his kitchens. Because they had a nearly inexhaustible budget, it was not difficult for the family to employ the finest chefs and purchase only the most prized and expensive ingredients. The chateau had such an extensive wine cellar that when he visited in 1820, Pope Pious VII remarked that "if the Good Lord was aware that such marvels existed, he would surely move his throne closer to France".

Perhaps the most famous gastronome of the family was Prince Louis II, known affectionately as Le Grande Conde. Louis loved his wife, his mistresses and his nine children but more than anything he loved to eat and, in 1666 he scored a major triumph when he acquired the services of the great chef Vatel, who promised to make his table the finest in all of France.

Vatel was not so much a working cook as he was a superb inventor of dishes and an inspiration to the cooks who worked under his supervision. In charge of all the arrangements for the meals at Chantilly, he supervised a staff of over 350, all of which he did with genius. In a letter to a friend, Vatel summed up his feelings about his job: "The master of the kitchens must be well bred, so that he may always make an appearance that will do honor to his master. He should be grave and dignified but at the same time pleasing, civil, amiable and well disposed. Over all, he must at all times give an appearance of serenity".

In 1671, the Prince told Vatel to prepare a reception for King Louis XIV and an entourage of 200 guests. At that time, the King's own chef was La Varenne, the only other chef in France at the time to attain Vatel's own level of fame. Vatel saw the royal visit as an opportunity to demonstrate the superiority of his own cooking.

Early in the evening of April 23, the first day of the king's visit, a light supper of turtle soup, creamed chicken fried trout and roast pheasant was served in the daffodil garden. Because seventy-five guests more than anticipated had arrived, there was not enough pheasant for several of the tables, but the dinner wasenjoyed thoroughly by all of the guests.

The next day was a Friday and a large shipment of fish was expected in the morning. When only a few baskets arrived, Vatel became distraught. His mind reeled with visions of the king and his court sitting down to empty plates. As he wrote in a brief note: "The shame is too much to bear". Vatel retired to his room and there committed suicide by stabbing himself eight times.

Shortly after his body was found, the rest of the fish arrived. Despite the tragedy, Vatel's staff carried on and brought the meal to a happy ending by serving what is now considered one of the most famous meals in French history. In honor of the great chef's memory, the filet of sole that Vatel had planned as part of the original menu was not served.

The hand-printed menu listed the following courses:

Anchovies Sevigne
Melon with Parma Ham
Lobster Quenelles With Shrimp Sauce
Leg of Lamb
Vatel Duck Sauteed in Madeira Wine
Strawberry Bombe

The below recipes will aid in replicating either all of part of Vatel's famous meal. No matter how the dishes turn out, there is no need to contemplate suicide.

Anchovies Sevigne

2 small, young lettuces, with coarse outer leaves discarded
butter as required
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup tuna fish (ideally cooked fresh tuna but can use tinned)
1/4 cup truffles (if not available, porcini mushrooms)
about 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise
12 - 16 anchovy fillets, fresh if possible, flattened gently
4 hard boiled eggs, cut in thick slices
1 Tbsp. olive oil
lemon wedges and slices of cooked beets for garnish

Shred the lettuce coarsely. Weigh the lettuce and, for every 250 gr. melt 3 Tbsp. of butter in a saucepan. Season the lettuce with salt and pepper and cook gently in the butter until the liquids are absorbed. Set aside to keep warm.

Rub the tuna and truffles (or mushrooms) through a fine sieve and mix well until the mixture is smooth. Add enough mayonnaise to bind the mixture. Spoon this puree onto the anchovy fillets and then roll the fillets. Place each fillet on a slice of the hard boiled egg and place on a serving plate. Surround with the lettuce and sprinkle over with the olive oil. Decorate the plate with the lemon wedges and beet slices and serve as an hors d'oeuvre. Serves 4 - 6.

Leg of Lamb a la Vatel

1 leg of lamb, about 21/2 kilos, trimmed and tied
6 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
1/4 cup butter
3 carrots, sliced
3 medium onions, sliced
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup beef or chicken stock
1 Tbsp. tomato paste salt and pepper to taste
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 sprigs of thyme and 1 bay leaf

With a sharp knife make small slits in the meat and into each slit insert a garlic sliver.

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan or flameproof casserole. Add the carrots and onions and in this brown the meat on all sides. Add the wine, cook for 1 - 2 minutes and then add the stock and tomato paste, stirring in well. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add the bouquet garni.

Cover the casserole and roast the lamb in an oven that has been preheated to 250øC for 6 - 7 hours. When the meat is done, it should be soft enough to be eaten with a spoon. After cooking, very gently remove the meat to a serving platter. Strain the cooking liquids and pour over the meat. Serves 6.

Lobster Quenelles with Shrimp Sauce

For the Quenelles:
750 gr. lobster meat (can also use trout or pike)
3 cups sweet cream, well chilled
2 egg whites, beaten
grated nutmeg to taste
salt and white pepper to taste
dash or two of cognac and Tabasco

For the Sauce:
450 gr. shrimps in their shells
2 1/2 cups milk
1 cup chicken stock
1/2 small onion, chopped finely
1/4 cup cream
2 Tbsp. Pernod (or Ouzo or Arak)
2 Tbsp. butter
11/2 Tbsp. flour
4 tsp. brandy
1 tsp. tomato puree
1 clove garlic, minced
salt and pepper to taste

Run the lobster meat through the finest blade of a food chopper three times. Place the ground lobster in a large bowl which sits comfortably on a bowl of ice. Using a wooden spoon, work the lobster into a smooth paste. Slowly work in the egg whites and season to taste with the nutmeg, salt, pepper, cognac and Tabasco. While still over the ice, slowly add the sweet cream, blending constantly.

To form the quenelles, have ready to moderately large spoons of equal size, a small bowl of hot water and a well buttered cookie tin. Leave one spoon in the hot water and with the other lightly scoop out just enough of the quenelle mixture to fill the spoon. Take the second spoon out of the hot water and invert it over the first to shape the quenelle. Do not press the spoons together: merely shape the quenelles.

To make the sauce, melt the butter in a large skillet and in this saute the onion and garlic until soft but not browned. Stir in the flour and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until bubbling but not boiling. Add the milk, stock, shrimps and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce the heat and let simmer for 5 - 6 minutes.

Remove the shrimp from the skillet and shell them. Crush the shells and add these, the Pernod and the brandy to the sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes and then strain the sauce. Stir in the tomato puree and the cream and correct the seasoning.

Arrange the quenelles in a buttered baking dish and over these arrange the shrimp. Pour the sauce over, covering generously, and bake in a medium-hot oven until the sauce is lightly browned and the quenelles have risen slightly (10 - 12 minutes). Serves 4 - 6.

Duck Sauteed in Madeira Wine

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 duckling, about 21/2 kilos, quartered
1 medium onion, chopped
2 Tbsp. flour
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 cup beef or chicken stock
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs
2 shallots, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed of parsley, 2 sprigs of thyme and 1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
100 gr. mushrooms, sliced thinly
1/4 cup Madeira wine
1 cup toasted bread croutons
chopped parsley for garnish

In a large skillet heat the oil and in this lay the duck, skin side up. Saute the pieces for 1 - 2 minutes and then turn skin side down to cook until browned and the fat has been rendered (about 15 - 20 minutes). Remove the duckling pieces and set aside.

Discard all but 2 Tbsp. of the fat and into this stir the onion and saute until lightly browned. Add the flour and continue cooking, stirring constantly over a medium flame until browned. Whisk in the wine, stock, bouquet garni, shallots, garlic, salt and pepper. Return the duck to the skillet, cover and simmer until the duck is tender when pierced with a fork (about 30 minutes). Add more stock during cooking if the sauce becomes thick.

Add the mushrooms and Madeira and simmer until the mushrooms are tender (3 -4 minutes). The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove the duckling pieces to a serving platter and if the sauce is too thick add stock; if too thin boil to reduce further.

Discard the bouquet garni and correct the seasoning. Surround the duckling pieces with the croutons and over this spoon the mushrooms and sauce. If ample sauce remains, serve in a gravy boat. Garnish with the parsley immediately before serving. Serves 4.

Strawberry Bombe

1 liter strawberries, hulled (may use raspberries or blackberries)
11/2 cups sugar
2 tsp. gelatin
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 cup whipping cream

Crush the strawberries and add the sugar. Let these stand at room temperature for about 1/2 hour.

Soak the gelatin in 3 Tbsp. of water and then dissolve in 3 Tbsp. of boiling water. Into this stir the berries and lemon juice. Let come to room temperature and place the mixture in the freezer compartment.

When the mixture is just on the point of freezing whip the cream to the point where it stands in soft peaks and fold the whipped cream gently into the mixture. Pour the whole into a slightly dampened mold or into individual parfait glasses and freeze. Do not store for more than 12 hours. About 30 minutes before serving transfer to the regular refrigeration compartment. Serves 8 - 10.

For a list of restaurants where you can dine much in the style of Vatel, click here.

© Daniel Rogov