Several weeks ago, while sitting at the bar at the King David Hotel in Jerusalem, I was shocked when a group of four young people ordered "Benedictine and orange juice". With its intricate flavors and complex bouquet, Benedictine is one of the truly great liqueurs of the world and adding orange juice to it is an offense not only to good taste but to nearly five hundred years of history and tradition.

Originally made in 1510 by the Benedictine Monks who lived in the fortified castle of the Dukes of Normandy in the city of Fecamp, the liqueur was produced for almost three hundred years until it vanished in the upheavals of the French Revolution. Later, in 1836, a wine merchant of Fecamp, Alexandre le Grand, found the original recipe, reconstituted the drink and turned it into a liqueur made from 27 herbs and spices. The recipe is a well guarded secret but it is known that among other ingredients the liqueur contains hyssop, melissa, cinnamon, tea, thyme, coriander and nutmeg. After the herbs and spices have been infused in alcohol, the liqueur undergoes a further series of distillations before being aged in oak casks for two years. When finished, Benedictine has a characteristic saffron color, a subtle aroma and a taste of exquisite finesse.

In Europe, Benedictine continues to be one of the most adored of all liqueurs, but in America more people drink the beverage primarily bottled as B&B, which is a combination of Benedictine and Brandy. This innovation came about in 1937 when one of le Grand's descendants was impressed by a cocktail made by the head barman at New York City's famous 21 Club. The practice of adding orange juice to Benedictine is less than four years old, and advertisements devoted to convincing us that this and other soft drinks are legitimate additions are aimed primarily at the market of 21 - 30 year olds who continue to show a preference for vodka, tequilla and other beverages with a supposedly younger image. My hope, as was Oscar Wilde's, is that "nothing is a better cure for youth than a bit of intelligent aging". Although adding orange juice to Benedictine is an abomination, there are few drinks more pleasing after dinner than either Benedictine or Benedictine and Brandy both of which are ideally sipped neat or, if one insists, poured over ice cubes as a cocktail.

Living up to the meaning of his name, le Grand ("the big") Alexandre designed an elegant rococo palace that would serve as the factory in which the liqueur would be produced. Those travelling in the area of Normandy should consider a visit to the palace (which receives more than 100,000 visitors annually). During the conducted tour, one can see the 150 year old stills that are still in use, the barrel room in which the liqueur is aged, and a modern art gallery that contains one of the world's best collections of Miro and Braque. Of equal interest are the Benedictine posters, some of which date back to 1853, and many of which are at least as well known as those of Absolut Vodka. The palace is in Fecamp, and information about visits can be obtained by telephoning 0033: 35.10.26.00.

© Daniel Rogov