Despite my love for Paris and in agreement with the writings of Roland Barthes, I have no choice but to admit that Paris has now always been "the city that dwarfed all other European cities". Nor, as Charles de Gaulle believed, has Paris always been "the diplomatic, business, academic, intellectual and social center of the Western world". And, no matter how enchanted one may be with the writings of Ernest Hemmingway, Paris has not always housed "the most charming, the most intelligent, the most stimulating and the most fashionable people in all of Europe".

The original Paris, an island on a bend in the Seine River, with a plateau on one side and a swamp (today the neighborhood called the Marais) on the other, was hardly a desirable place to live. In 100 B.C., when the curly-headed Parisii, a tribe of Celtic fisherman and navigators, began to settle on the tiny little Ile-de-la-Cite, the island was plagued by typhus, poliomyelitis and a host of other diseases that guaranteed that less than 40% of the population would live to the age of thirty. Nor were those Parisii who survived particularly good at long-term planning. They had settled on the island with the mistaken notion that the river would protect them from marauding Vandals. They simply failed to realize that the river merely provided a convenient highway for any other tribe who decided to raid them.

The island of the Parisii only became a safe place in which to live after the Romans invaded and conquered the city in the third century. Under Roman rule, the islanders eliminated the worst of the diseases that plagued them and learned how to defend themselves against marauders. In fact, by the 5th Century, Paris (which was called Lutetia during the period of Roman domination) had become a model Gallo-Roman town of six to ten thousand inhabitants.

Historian Francois de la Bedolliere, who has written extensively about the manners and private customs of the French, points out that even in those early days, the Parisians had a reputation for being "great eaters". From de la Bedolliere and other historians it is evident that rich and poor Parisians lunched at midday on raisins in honey, an apple and a piece of bread that had been dipped in wine. Dinner, a more complex affair even in the poorest of homes was generally served at about nine in the evening, and many Parisians had the habit of taking another light meal just before they went to bed.

By the onset of the sixth century, the city had even developed a class of wealthy merchants whose dinners rapidly become the talk of the entire Roman empire. At their elaborate feasts, large round tables, frequently incrusted with semi-precious jewels were covered with linen cloths. Seating arrangements were highly formalized at such diners. The ends of the table were reserved for guests of distinction, and the remaining places at the table were set aside for less influential guests. In addition to the main table, there were always three or four smaller tables set in the corners of the room for parasites who seemed always to know where the next dinner was being hosted and whose presence was tolerated by the master of the house.

After the senior servant of the household announced that supper was served, guests were expected to wash their hands and wear the robes and slippers that were given to them by other servants. Each guest then spread a large napkin, which he had brought from his own home, on his lap. (The purpose of these napkins were not so much to keep one clean as to be used to take home as much food as possible after the meal had been completed).

Meals would start when slaves brought out roasted or boiled meats which were promptly carved by servants specially trained in this art. Heated wine that had been mixed with honey was poured into large cups and guests would then help themselves from the large platter in the center of table. The traditional order of eating was to start with eggs, beef, mutton, pig and goat, all of which had been seasoned with pepper, caraway, saffron, poppy seeds, honey and salt. If the master of the house was a hunter, the dinner would also consist of the boar meat and deer meat served with cooked apples and oranges.

The second course was always determined by what was in the barnyard and garden of the master of the house, hens, peacocks, geese, beans, asparagus, chickpeas, beets, mushrooms and truffles being favorites. The third course was always of fish. Salmon, eels, and oysters all flavored with caraway, salt and vinegar were extremely popular. By the time the dessert course was served, generally at about one in the morning, the guests seemed to have lost most of their appetite and the hot and cold fruit pies, soft cheeses, boiled chestnuts, figs and peaches frequently went uneaten. Despite this minor failing, Titus Marcellus, a Roman general who visited Lutetia during these days observed that he had never met any people "who knew how to eat as well".

Although much of the food of the Gallo-Romans was unsophisticated (the great chef Careme called it `fundamentally barbaric'), several dishes, including the following have maintained their popularity and may still be found in rural French homes and in restaurants that specialize in country-style meals.

Stewed Beef Ribs

2 1/2 kilos beef ribs, cut into individual ribs
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup olive oil
6 cups beef stock
2 large onions, chopped finely
10 whole peppercorns
12 sprigs parsley, chopped coarsely
1 Tbsp. cardamon, crushed
2 tsp. sage
1 tsp. each salt, cinnamon and ground cloves
6 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
3 slices whole-wheat bread, without crusts, broken into crumbs
1/2 teaspoon saffron

Sprinkle the beef ribs lightly with flour. In a heavy saucepan or very large heavy skillet heat the oil and in this brown the ribs. Add the beef stock and all of the remaining ingredients except the vinegar, breadcrumbs and saffron. Simmer, uncovered, over a gentle flame until the ribs are done (about 2 hours).

In a mixing bowl combine the vinegar and saffron and soak the breadcrumbs in this mixture for 10 - 15 minutes. Puree the mixture and add it to the stew after for the last 15 - 20 minutes of cooking. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov