During the 13th and 14th centuries, the ruling lords of Ireland took great pleasure in periodically marching off to war against their neighbors. The truth is, however, that nearly all of these wars were quite civilized and few people were killed or injured in battle. The reason why these wars were nearly casualty free was that every lord, knowing how untrustworthy his neighbors were, built his castle with deep moats, high thick walls and enough battlements to make an invasion of their homes a nearly impossible task. Because these castles were so secure, battles looked more like large colorful picnics than anything we think of today as resembling real warfare.

As one drives over the arched bridges that cross the river and moats leading to Ashford Castle it is not difficult to realize why this fortified mansion was never conquered. One can also see why this fully modernized 13th century castle is now considered one of the most charming hotels in the world.

Located at the head of the lake known as Lough Corrib the drive to the castle takes one through the hotels perfectly manicured nine hole golf course and then into a broad forecourt where the massive fortified castle stretches before you. Rebuilt in the 1800's, the castle served for nearly a century and a half as a hunting lodge for members of the royal family. In 1971, the castle was bought and became a hotel. Within a decade the castle had been completely refurbished and had earned a fine name as a splendid 83 bedroom luxury establishment. When Ashford Castle was first built in the 13th century, its purpose was to protect the ruling lord from his neighbors. Today, it serves as an example of Irish hospitality at its most memorable.

Although the moats, battlement walls and watchtowers still remain, the castle's courtyard is now filled by immaculate flower gardens that are tended by fourteen gardeners. Expect a warm welcome here. The porters who take your bags will shake you warmly by the hand, introduce themselves by name and ask with real interest about your journey. As guests are then escorted into the castle, the first thing they encounter is the collection of suits of armor that line a long corridor. One then turns right into a large wood paneled hall, there to be greeted by the efficient and friendly desk staff. The reception hall, with its 12 meter high ceilings, is furnished with sofas, chairs and tables all of which date from the 14th and 15th centuries, and glass cases that contain some of the mounted prize fish that have been caught in the lake or local rivers. Glorious arrangements of fresh flowers are to be found on every one of the heavy wood tables that fill the area.

The bedrooms are vast, possibly the largest of any hotel in Europe, and nearly all of the furnishings in the rooms are antiques, some actually surviving from the 9th century. Every bedroom has a king-size canopied bed, brocade drapes and thick carpets but, for modern touches, all rooms are also equipped with a minibar and television. If requested, a computer terminal and private fax will be installed in your room. The bathrooms are equally luxurious and seem almost as large, and each has a carved marble bathtub equipped with a jacuzzi. As one would expect, each of the bedrooms has a fine view but the best views are from those at the corner of the castle that overlooks the lake and the river.

When Marlon Brando visited in 1978, he claimed that the castle was "a food-lover's paradise". He is not alone in thinking this, and the hotel boasts two restaurants, both of which are expensive but worth every penny that you will spend. The first, the Marragh, is ruled by Jules Morreau who specializes in an intelligent version of classic French cuisine. To get to Morreau's intimate restaurant one walks up a flight of narrow wood stairs that lead to a finely-carved balcony that overlooks the reception area. From here one turns into a large anteroom that contains an enormous ornate fireplace and then enters the dining room, with walls sumptuously draped in peacock blue silk and gilt framed mirrors. Morreau, who studied and worked with the Roux Brothers and Alain Chapel is a superb chef, one who shows enormous respect for the local fish, meat, game and vegetables with which he is working.

His zucchini flowers stuffed with whole truffles are incomparable; his fillet of venison with red wine and raspberries is symphonic; and his pheasant with wild mushrooms is enough to bring tears of joy to any diner. The restaurant also features an extensive wine list, one of the best outside of France, with some remarkable vintages represented, often at remarkable prices.

The second and larger dining room specializes in traditional Irish dishes. The rows of beautiful Waterford crystal chandeliers, the plush chairs upholstered in velvet, the exquisite table settings and the magnificent view of the gardens and lake make it immediately clear that one will dine very well indeed here. Locally born chef John Guiness, knows the foods of Ireland well and makes excellent use of the vegetables and fruits that are grown on the grounds of the castle as well as the fine salmon, trout and pike that are found in the local waters. Guiness who smokes his own salmon and trout, is also masterful with the oysters, shrimps and lobsters that come from the ocean. His Dublin Bay shrimp, prepared in a leek and garlic sauce are treasures, definitely not to be overlooked when they are in season, and his carpaccio of fresh salmon is one of the best I have eaten anywhere, tissue thin slices of raw fish treated to a light mustard-vinaigrette sauce and served with finely chopped chives. As everywhere in Ireland, potatoes are served with every meal, lamb, mutton and pork are the most popular meats, and game, ranging from venison to pheasant are extremely popular. Guiness does marvels with all of these.

During the morning hours, this dining room is presided over by a white hatted chef who supervises the buffet breakfast. Typical breakfast offerings might consist of oatmeal with cream, a variety of smoked herrings, sardines with mustard, grilled trout, smoked salmon, smoked goose breast, cold smoked venison, cold veal and chicken pies, grilled kidneys, sausages with mashed potatoes and tongue with hot horseradish sauce. In addition to excellent croissants and brioches, the bread table will have at least eight different kinds of bread and rolls all with a large selection of honey, jam, marmalade and freshly made butter. Whatever else you eat, be sure to try the Irish soda bread. Made with baking soda instead of yeast and filled with caraway seeds and raisins, this is a treat beyond compare.

There is plenty to do here between meals, baths and naps. Tied up at the hotel's private dock for the use of guests who want to cruise the lake is the magnificent launch which once belonged to the liner Queen Elizabeth I; the pony carriage used by John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara in the filming of "The Quiet Man" in 1952 is available for outings on the ground; and several well polished Land Rovers are available for those who want to go hunting. The fishing here is magnificent (more than 120 record breaking fish have been caught in the local waters) and the golf course is said to be one of the finest in Ireland.

During the late night hours be sure to visit the hotel's "Dungeon Bar", where one can either sip Irish whiskey or have a late night snack. Try especially the soup made with celery and Stilton cheese, the veal cordon bleu and the apple pie. Be sure to sample any of the 55 brands of fine Irish whiskey that is offered as well as the velvet-smooth draught Guinness, which is quite unlike the fizzy bottled variety that is found outside of Ireland.

ASHFORD CASTLE, Cong, County Mayo. Telephone Cong (092) 46003. Including continental breakfast, standard double rooms range in price from $300 - $500 and suites cost up to $1,800. Full breakfasts will cost about $40 per person and dinner in either of the restaurants will cost between $120 and $150 per person, not including wine.

For the recipes of several traditional Irish favorites, click here.

© Daniel Rogov