There are those people who think Paris has changed since the time when Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Anais Nin and F. Scott Fitzgerald were there in the 1930s. Such people are only partially correct, for Paris is a city that absorbs change as easily as the Atlantic Ocean can absorb a few extra drops of water. Those who want to visit Paris of the '30s need only visit some of the restaurants that Hemingway enjoyed. Some of these have undergone major restorations but none of them has lost its soul. Paris remains a moveable feast.

Brasserie Lipp: 151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris 6. It is said that if, as you are walking past the Brasserie Lipp some one jumps up from his table and calls you by name that your social future is forever guaranteed. One of Paris' most famous establishments, presidents, kings, bankers and professors come here for a light meal and one or more cold beers. So do pimps, pickpockets, whores and policemen.

In 1920, when Marcelin Cazes bought the little Brasserie, his menu consisted of sausages, sauerkraut and several kinds of cheese. In 1926 he added Baltic herring, boiled beef and veal stew. All of these things are still on the menu and definitely worth trying. Also be sure to try the choucroute garni and potatoes in oil. Keep in mind that Lipp probably has the coldest beer and the best chips in the world.

La Closerie des Lilas: 171 Boulevard du Montparnasse, Paris 6. It is difficult to say whether this fashionable establishment is more closely associated with lovers who come here to show the world how much they adore each other or the famous who at one time or another have made it their hangout. Trotsky, Andre ide, Hemingway and Pablo Picasso are only a few of the well known people who considered this place their own. The colorful people who sit here, a bar that is unquestionably the most beautiful in Pris and its romantic atmosphere make this place well worth visiting. Keep in mind, however, that even though the food here has never been great, it has always been expensive. If money is no object, try the sauteed goose livers. If you're on a budget, have a beer or an aperitif and simply sit and enjoy watching the world go by.

Au Cochon d'Or: Avenue Jean-Jaures, Paris 19. When Hemingway came here, this luxurious old bistro was located near the slaughterhouses of Paris. The slaughterhouses have moved away and the area has become a cultural center but the famous restaurant has not changed. The grilled meats are the major attractions here but do not hesitate to try the lobster salad or the mullard breast, both of which are exquisite. Nor should you leave without sampling some of the unforgettable hot desserts.

La Coupole: 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, Paris 14. Even though this well known cafe-restaurant has undergone major renovation, its soul remains intact. Many of the people who spend their afternoons at Lipp come here in the evenings as do some of Paris' most colorful characters. Havana cigars, Davidoff cigarettes and joints of marijuana are equally popular in this place that serves nearly 1000 meals every day. Your best bets here are simple, traditional French dishes such as quiche Lorraine, grilled lamb chops, steak with chips, and any of the dishes with oysters or lobster.

Le Dome: 108 Boulevard du Montparnasse, Paris 14. Lots of dark wood, engraved glass, tiny intimate corners and a good simple cuisine make this one of Paris' most beloved spots. You will not go wrong here with any of the offerings but my own favorites are the calamari with garlic, fish soup, shrimp cooked in cider and, like Hemingway, the spinach souffle.

For recipes of several of Hemingway's (and my own) favorite dishes, click here.

© Daniel Rogov