Even though North and South American Indians have been happily dining on potatoes for more than 20,000 years, it took an uphill battle to convince Europeans that these delightful tubers were edible fare.

Indigenous to South America, potatoes first made their way to Spain, probably from Quito, in about 1540. From there they made their way to France and England. Everybody admired the delicate flowers of the plant, but nearly all Europeans considered the potato itself poisonous. So afraid were most ordinary folk that, when Sir Walter Raleigh decided to cultivate them in Ireland, his neighbors threatened to burn his house and fields. In France, when several noble families wanted to grow potatoes, the Parliaments of Burgundy and Besancon passed laws in 1630 that forbade their cultivation, being convinced that they caused leprosy.

As late as 1771 most Europeans were still skeptical and it took the efforts of Auguste Parmentier to rehabilitate the potato. As a prisoner of war in Germany, Parmentier had survived for nearly two years on potatoes. On his return to France he wrote a series of pamphlets praising their value, but it was not until he presented King Louis XVI with a bouquet of potato flowers and convinced the monarch to taste them did the potato became a culinary passion for European royal families.

Even then, however, the common people remained leary. Parmentier, somewhat of a psychologist, decided that the way to convince the masses was to arouse their cupidity. The king had given him several large fields near Paris in which to raise his potatoes. Parmentier arranged for soldiers to closely guard the fields during the day. At night, however, they were left unguarded. Human nature took over, and before the advent of the Revolution several years later, the potato had become France's most popular food.

As people had been caught up in the negative mythology surrounding the potato, they were now hard pressed to find enough superlatives with which to describe their new love. The best recommendation for potatoes probably came from Dr. William Salmon who claimed that they stopped "fluxes of the bowel and could cure tuberculosis and rabies." He went on to state that eating potatoes would "increase seed and provoke lust, causing fruitfulness in both sexes."

While one may fairly well discard the claims of Dr. Salmon, the potato is full of nutrients and does provide a versatile ingredient for any course from soup to dessert. The following recipes, unless otherwise noted, will serve 4 - 6. Recipes noted with a single asterisk (*) are those that can be prepared with even the most basic knowledge of cookery; two asterisks indicate recipes that call for somewhat more complex ingredients or cooking methods, and those noted with three asterisks are dishes that call for a higher level of knowledge and probably a great deal of time.

Vichyssoise *

Note: Even though most people consider Vichyssoise an ultimately classic French recipe (and it is now quite popular throughout France), the dish originated in the United States. Those who have a passion to stay with more traditional French version will do well to consider the recipe for Potage Parmentier that follows.

3 large leeks, white parts only
1 medium onion
2 Tbsp. butter
4 medium potatoes
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup each sweet cream and milk
salt and white pepper to taste
chives, snipped, for garnish

Finely mince the leeks and onion. In a kettle melt the butter and in this saute the leeks and onions together for 3 - 4 minutes.

Peel and very thinly slice the potatoes. Add these and the chicken stock to the kettle and simmer, covered, until the vegetables are tender (15 - 20 minutes). Put the entire mixture through a fine sieve and add the cream, milk, salt and pepper. The mixture should have the smoothness of velvet before transferring to a serving bowl and chilling thoroughly. Immediately before serving sprinkle with the chopped chives. Serve well chilled, ideally over crushed ice in chilled soup bowls.

Potage Parmentier *

3/4 cup sweet cream
1/2 kilo potatoes, peeled and quartered
200 gr. leeks, trimmed, well rinsed and cut into julienne strips
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon or chervil, for garnish

Combine the potatoes, leeks and 1 liter of water in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over a high heat and then season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the potatoes and leeks are very soft (about 35 - 40 minutes).

Puree the soup in a blender or food processor and then return to the saucepan. Stir in the sweet cream and cook over a low heat just until heated through. Adjust the seasoning to taste, sprinkle over the chopped herbs and serve immediately. (Serves 6 - 8).

Notes: (1) A tempting variation with this recipe is to use creme fraiche instead of sweet cream. (b) During the winter this soup should be served hot. During the spring and summer months it may be served hot or very well chilled, ideally over a bowl of crushed ice.

Tortilla Patata
Potato Omelet - A Mexican Recipe

1 cup corn oil (can substitute peanut oil)
4 large potatoes, peeled and sliced thinly
1 or 2 large onions, sliced thinly
4 - 5 eggs, beaten lightly with salt to taste
salt as required

In a heavy 9" (23 cm.) skillet heat the oil and to this add the potato slices one at a time. Alternate layers of potatoes with onion slices and salt the layers lightly. Cook over a medium flame, turning the potatoes occasionally until tender but not yet browned. Remove the potatoes and onions from the skillet and drain, reserving about 3 Tbs. of the oil.

Place the eggs in a bowl and then add the potatoes and onions to the bowl, pressing gently so that the potato and onion mixture is completely covered by the eggs. Let stand 15 - 20 minutes.

Clean the now cool skillet with paper toweling.. Add 2 Tbsp. of the reserved oil and heat until very hot. Add the potato, onion and egg mixture,rapidly spreading it in the skillet. Lower the flame to medium and shake the pan often to prevent sticking.

When the potatoes begin to brown invert the omelet by flipping onto a large, flat plate. Add the remaining oil to the skillet, heat and then slide the omelet back into the skillet to brown the second side. Lower the flame, flip the omelet 2 times more, cooking on both sides just until nicely browned on the outside but still somewhat juicy on the interior. Transfer to a serving platter and serve hot or at room temperature as an appetizer or luncheon dish.


Patatas en Ajopollo *
Potatoes in Garlic and Almond Sauce -A Spanish Recipe

6 Tbsp. olive oil
1 slice French bread, about 1/4" (1/2 cm) thick, with the crust
12 blanched almonds
2 - 3 cloves garlic
1 sprig parsley
pinch or two of saffron
4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
3/4 cup chicken stock
salt and pepper to taste

In a skillet heat the oil and in this fry the bread, almonds, garlic and parsley until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, reserving the oil. To the fried ingredients add the saffron and pepper to taste and work into a paste (use either a mortar and pestle or food processor). Gradually beat in 1 cup of water.

Place the potatoes in a saucepan and pour over the ground bread mixture. Add the reserved oil and the stock. Season to taste with salt, stir well and cook, uncovered, over a medium flame just until the potatoes are tender. Serve hot with the liquids that remain in the saucepan.

Potatoes O'Brien *
An Irish favorite

6 large potatoes
3/4 cup butter
2 - 3 jarred pimientos, minced
salt and pepper to taste

In a saucepan with an ample amount of lightly salted water boil the potatoes in their skins just until tender. Drain and cool. Peel and cut the potatoes into medium-small dice.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the potatoes until well browned. Add the pimientos and salt and pepper to taste. Toss until the pimientos are heated through and serve at once.

Patatokeftedakia
Potato Balls - A Greek recipe

1/2 kilo potatoes
1 Tbsp. butter, melted
4 Tbsp. flour
1 tsp. each parsley and green onion, chopped finely
2 cloves garlic, crushed
salt and pepper to taste
deep hot oil for frying

In a large pot with an ample amount of water boil the potatoes in their skins until they are soft throughout. Run under cold water, peel the skins and refrigerate, covered, until well chilled.

Run the cold potatoes through a sieve and add the flour, melted butter, garlic, parsley, green onion, flour, salt and pepper to taste (do not be afraid to use plenty of pepper in this recipe). Knead the mixture lightly until it is smooth throughout and form into balls about 1 1/2" (4 cm.) in diameter. Gently drop these into deep hot oil and fry until they are golden brown on the surface. Serve hot.


Dum Aloo **
Stuffed Potatoes - A recipe from India

6 large baking potatoes
1/2 green pepper, seeded and chopped coarsely
1/2 cup green peas
2 medium onions, chopped finely
juice of 2 small lemons
1/2 cup butter
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. chili powder or Tabasco
4 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped coarsely
1 1/2 cups beef stock
salt and pepper to taste

Scrub the potatoes well and halve lengthwise. Scoop out and reserve just enough of the pulp to leave a shell about 1/2" (1 cm.) thick. Chop the pulp finely and combine with the green pepper, peas and half the onion, Season to taste with salt and pepper and add half the lemon juice. With this mixture stuff the potatoes. Combine the halves and fasten with 1 or 2 toothpicks on each side.

In a large skillet melt 1/4 cup of the butter and in this fry the potatoes until well browned on all sides. Remove the potatoes and set aside. In the skillet melt the remaining butter and in this saute the remaining onion until golden brown. Add the turmeric and chili powder and continue to saute for 2 - 3 minutes longer. Add the tomatoes and simmer on a low flame for 3 minutes. Add the stock, remaining lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

Place the potatoes in the skillet, cover and steam over a low flame until tender (about 35 minutes), turning the potatoes after 20 minutes. Serve hot.

Ensalada Con Patate y Naranja *
Potato and Orange Salad - A Recipe from Valencia

3 large potatoes, boiled, peeled and cut in 1/2" (1 cm.) cubes
2 medium oranges, peeled, sliced thinly and with each slice quartered
1 large or medium onion, sliced thinly and separated into rings
1 or 2 pimientos, cut in thin strips
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
salt and pepper to taste

In a salad bowl gently combine the potatoes, oranges, onion and pimiento.

In a small bowl beat togethr the vinegar and oil. Pour this sauce over the potato mixture and stir carefully. Season with salt and pepper to taste and refrigerate. Serve well chilled.



Schwarzwalder Kirshtorte **
Black Forest Cake

6 medium potatoes
3/4 cup butter, softened
2 cups sugar
4 eggs, separated
50 gr. bitter chocolate, melted
1 Tbsp. very strong black coffee
2 1/2 cups flour, sifted
1 tsp. baking powder
1 cup almonds, ground
2 Tbsp. kirsch liqueur
1 recipe for chocolate butter cream (recipe follows)
2 cups black cherries, pitted and halved, ideally fresh, but if unavailable, may use canned
5 cups Creme Chantilly (sweetened whipped cream)
3/4 cup grated semisweet chocolate
Boil, peel and mash the potatoes and let stand, covered and refrigerated for 24 hours. Put the potatoes through a strainer and measure 2 cups.

In a mixing bowl cream the butter together with all but 2 Tbs. of the sugar. Into this beat the egg yolks, one at a time, beating thoroughly between additions. Fold in the bitter chocolate, coffee and potatoes.

In a small mixing bowl beat the egg whites with the remaining sugar until they are stiff and glossy. Turn the egg whites into the batter.

Resift the flour with the baking powder over the egg whites and then add the nuts. Fold the mixture together gently using a rubber spatula and then turn into 2 unbuttered 9" (23 cm.) round cake pans. Bake in a medium oven until the cake springs back to the touch (about 30 minutes). Let cool slightly.

Slice off the crowns of the cakes to make the layers level and sprinkle each layer with 1 Tbsp. of the Kirsch. Let cool completely and then spread the bottom layer with the chocolate butter cream. On the cream place 1 1/2 cups of the cherries and press these lightly into the cream. Top with the second cake layer. Spread the sweetened whipped cream over the top and on the sides of the cake and decorate with the grated chocolate and remaining cherries. Chill for several hours before serving. Serves 8 - 10.


Chocolate Butter Cream *

1/2 cup butter, softened and creamed until fluffy
1 cup confectioners' sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
1 egg yolk
1 Tbsp. milk (if necessary)
125 gr. bitter chocolate, melted in 2 Tbs. water and then cooled

Beat together the butter, sugar, salt and egg yolk until the mixture is thick and creamy, adding milk if necessary for consistency. Add the melted chocolate, mixing together gently but well.

© Daniel Rogov