When the French philosopher of gastronomy, Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin wrote that "a dinner without a dessert is like a woman with only one eye" he may have been exaggerating. The truth is, however, that he was not exaggerating very much, because since that day when our long-ago ancestors first discovered the art of dripping the juice of wild berries over fresh snow, human beings have gone to great lengths to make sure their dinners finish with a sweet course.

In their love of desserts even the most moderate of human beings have demonstrated just a bit of madness. Jonathan Swift, ordinarily a temperate man, often surprised his dinner companions when, at the end of a meal he would consume four large berry pies. Oscar Wilde, who was rarely temperate in anything at all, enjoyed demonstrating his love of excess by consuming enormous quantities of cream puffs. Queen Elizabeth I loved cookies, candies and petits fours so much that she had especially large pockets sewn into all of her dresses so that she could fill them with goodies to eat during the entire day.

Even some of the most sophisticated food writers of our time have developed a passion for desserts. American writer James Beard collected more than two hundred thousand dessert recipes; the French gourmet Curnonsky had over a thousand recipes just for making chocolate mousse; and Julia Child once boasted that she had more than ten thousand recipes for making dessert crepes. If confessions are in order, even I have such a passion and over the years have spoken and written hundreds of letters to chefs and fellow food writers all over the world in my ongoing search for new and tempting desserts. The recipes that follow are a partial reflection of my success.

Rice Pudding with Anisette

A recipe from chef Gil Lus of the Casa Fermin Restaurant in Oviedo, in the Spanish province of Asturia. Lus also reports that in addition to its overall popularity, the dish is especially liked by middle-aged men who feel that it adds to their sexual energy.

12 cups milk
2 sticks cinnamon
peel of 1/2 lemon
pinch of salt
1 cup short-grain rice
1 Tablespoons Pernod, anisette, arak or ouzo
1 Tablespoon cognac or other brandy
1 3/4 cups sugar
3 Tablespoons butter
cinnamon for sprinkling

In a saucepan combine the milk with the cinnamon sticks, lemon peel and salt. Bring to a boil, immediately lower the flame and then add the rice. Simmer very slowly, stirring frequently during the first few minutes. Continue to simmer uncovered over the lowest possible flame until the rice is cooked and the liquids are completely absorbed (about 3 hours), stirring every 10- 12 minutes. Add the anisette, brandy and 1 1/4 cups of the sugar and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes longer. At this time the pudding should have the consistency of a soft custard. If not thickened sufficiently bring to a boil over a high flame, stirring constantly, until it reaches that point. Add the butter and stir until melted. Let come to room temperature, stirring occasionally. and then divide the pudding into 6 earthenware dessert dishes.

Immediately before serving sprinkle each dish first with ground cinnamon and then with 1 Tablespoon of sugar. Transfer the dishes to an rack and place under a hot grill just until the sugar caramelizes. Serve immediately. (Serves 6).

Buttermilk Mousse

Gil Borge, dessert chef at the Linfiorden Inn, not far from the city of Alborg in northern Denmark, writes that this was the favorite dessert of the Danish Royal Family from the 13th - 19th centuries. The dessert is still extremely popular and is now served at the annual dinner held to celebrate the reconvening of the Danish Parliament.

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin
2 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup sugar
3/4 cup blanched almonds, chopped
1 teaspoon lemon rind, grated
2 cups sweet cream, whipped stiff
fresh strawberries, cherries or grapes, for serving

In the top of a small double boiler soak the gelatin in 1 cup water for 15 - 20 minutes. Over but not in boiling water, melt the gelatin and then let cool.

While the gelatin is cooling, mix together the buttermilk, sugar, almonds and lemon rind. Pour the cooled gelatin into the buttermilk mixture, stirring well. When the mixture begins to thicken, fold in the whipped cream and then pour into a glass bowl. Chill until firmly set. Shortly before serving, dip the bowl into warm water for several seconds, and then unmold onto a chilled serving plate. Serve surrounded with the fresh fruit. (Serves 8).

Fruit Sherbet

Chef Adajar Bekir of Izmir claims that this popular Turkish dessert was invented by his great-great grandfather, Hadji Bekir the same man who is also credited with devising the recipe for Turkish Delight. I learned years ago not to question the accuracy or veracity of Turkish chefs.

1 cup rose petal jam
4 cups pineapple, shredded
6 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons rose water
crystallized rose petals for garnish (optional)

In a small saucepan heat the jam and then strain well. Combine with 2 1/2 cups of water and let cool. Add the pineapple, lemon juice and rose water. Transfer the mixture to ice trays, cover with foil and freeze just until the mixture begins to become thick. Remove from the freezer, stir well and then return to the freezer and freeze solid. Transfer from the freezer to the regular refrigerator compartment about l5 minutes before serving.

Bread and Sugar Pudding

Julio Arroyo, for many years the chef of Fidel Castro, says that for two hundred years this has been the most popular dessert in all of Cuba. Arroyo reports that "during the years of the revolution, Fidel and Che Gueverra would often astonish their friends by spending their afternoons eating enormous amounts of this dish and drinking unbelievable amounts of rum".

225 gr. brown sugar
3 thick slices stale bread with crusts removed and cut into 1 cm. cubes
2 cups hot milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
pinch of salt
3 eggs, well beaten
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

In a heavy saucepan heat the sugar until it is melted and has turned very dark brown. Slowly and very carefully to avoid splattering pour in 11/4 cups of boiling water.

Arrange the bread cubes so that they cover the bottom of a well greased souffle dish. To the hot milk add the vanilla and salt and pour this mixture over the beaten eggs, mixing well. Pour the caramelized sugar over the bread, add the milk and egg mixture and top by sprinkling with the nutmeg. Place the souffle dish in a pan of hot water and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 190 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes.

Remove the souffle dish from the water and place it under a hot broiler just until the top of the pudding is nicely browned (3 - 4 minutes). Serve hot or warm. (Serves 4 - 6).

Cucumber-Ginger Ices

Even in Peking there are wealthy families and Mai Chiang is employed as the chef to one of those families. Chiang is one of the most honest chefs I have ever met and freely admits that the dessert most admired by his employers is one he learned from a colleague, chef Detlef Skrobanket of Jakarta.

750 grams cucumbers, peeled, halved and seeded
3 Tablespoons lime or lemon juice
50 grams sugar
11/2 Tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and grated finely

By hand or with a food processor shred 500 grams of the cucumbers, making fine slivers. Puree the remaining cucumber, and press through a sieve to extract all of the liquids. Add enough water to the liquids to make 1 cup.

Combine the shredded cucumbers, the cucumber juice, lime juice, sugar and ginger in a stainless steel or glass bowl, Mix well and then let stand for 2 - 3 hours at room temperature.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the freezer. When the mixture begins to thicken stir it with a fork. Repeat this process three times in all and then transfer the mixture to individual dessert cups and let freeze solidly. About 1/2 hour before serving transfer the ices to the regular refrigerator compartment. As the mixture begins to soften stir again with a fork. By the time you serve it, the ices should have a snowy consistency.

Fruit Pancakes

Pastry chef Meg Emlyn of Cardiff reports that for at least five hundred years, these pancakes have been one of the most popular desserts throughout Wales.

For the Pancakes:
1 1/2 cups milk
6 eggs, separated
1 1/2 cups flour
rind of 1/2 lemon, grated
butter as required
1/4 cup sugar
confectioners' sugar as required

For the Fruits:
6 peaches or nectarines
or
5 cups blueberries or raspberries
or
5 - 6 medium apples
or
12 plums or apricots

Place twelve 7 1/2 cm. individual pie tins in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius and let them heat. (May use disposable aluminum pie tins).

Prepare the fruit, peeling, pitting and slicing the large fruits as necessary and leaving the berries whole. Place the fruit in a small ovenproof casserole, sprinkle with sugar, cover and let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small mixing bowl combine the milk with the egg yolks and beat just until well blended. Gradually add the flour to the mixture, beating the mixture smooth between each addition. Add just enough flour to form a thick batter, but one that is thin enough to be stirred. Sprinkle the lemon rind over the batter. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and then fold them into the batter.

Remove the pie tins from the oven and rub the insides well with butter. Pour the batter into the pans until each pan is 3/4 full. and then place the pie tins and fruits in the casserole in the oven. Bake until the tarts are puffed up and golden brown and the fruit liquids are syrupy. Remove from the oven, slide 6 of the tarts into deep dish saucers or onto individual cake plates. Divide the fruits and a little syrup over the top of each tart and sprinkle lightly with lemon juice. Remove the remaining tarts from their pans and invert them over the fruit to form covers. Sprinkle with the confectioners' sugar and serve at once. (Serves 6).

Sweet Potato and Pineapple Dessert

Senora Maria Emilia Lila Conceptia de Najero, the chief cook at the residence of the President of Mexico writes that this dessert dish which originated among the Indians of the Yucatan Valley is now universally popular throughout her country.

1 1/2 cups brown sugar
2 cups sweet potatoes, cooked, peeled and mashed
1 cup pineapple, grated (ideally use fresh but may use tinned)
ground cinamon to taste
1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped coarsely
whipped cream for serving

Put half of the sugar into a heavy saucepan and pour over 3/4 cup of water. Bring to a boil, stirring regularly and then boil rapidly for 5 minutes. Reduce to a low flame, add the potatoes simmer gently, stirring frequently for 10 minutes. Add the pine- apple constantly for 10 minutes. Add the pineaple, season to taste with cinnamon and then distribute in dessert glasses. Sprinkle over the chopped nuts and then let cool for « - 1 hour before serving. Immediately before serving place a generous amount of well chilled whipped cream on each portion. (Serves 6 - 8).

Banana Omelet

Hawaiian chef Halu Ho speculates that this dish was devised by one of the French chefs who worked for the Dole family, the super-rich dynasty that controlled Hawaiian politics and economics for nearly two centuries. The dish is now served regularly at Ho's restaurant in the Maui Inn.

3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1/4 cup each milk and sweet cream
2 egg yolks, beaten lightly
2 Tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup bananas, chopped
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
2 Tablespoons butter

In a mixing bowl soak the breadcrumbs in the milk and cream for 5 minutes. In this order stir in the egg yolks, sugar, salt, vanilla and bananas and then fold in the egg whites.

Melt the butter in a heavy 23 cm. skillet that has an ovenproof handle. Remove from the flame and rotate the skillet so that the bottom and sides are well coated with the butter and into this pour the banana mixture. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 180?Celsius and bake until the omelet is puffed and gently browned (about 10 minutes). (Serves 2 or 4).

Coconut Cream Pudding

Joseph Peter, chief chef of the Hilton International Hotel in Bankok writes that this traditional Thai dessert is as popular with visitors as it is with locals. Even though the cuisine at Peter's restaurant, "Ma Maison", follows the French tradition, this native dessert is always offered.

2 cups milk
the meat of 2 fresh coconuts, grated or 300 grams tinned coconut meat
2 Tablespoons butter
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
6 egg yolks
6 egg whites, beaten stiff
whipped cream for serving (optional)

In a saucepan heat the milk just until bubbles begin to appear at the edges. Remove from the flame, add the grated coconut and then return to a low flame and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain through a double layer of muslin squeezing all of the liquid out of the coconut meat. Transfer the liquids to the top of a double boiler and cook over lightly simmering water for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. This liquid is called coconut cream. (The coconut meat may be reserved for use in other recipes).

In a mixing bowl mash the butter with a whisk and then gradually whisk in the sugar and cinnamon. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating after each addition until the mixture is light and fluffy. To this gradually add the coconut cream and finally fold in the egg whites.

Divide the mixture into 6 or 8 buttered custard cups, set these in a shallow pan of water and place in an oven that has been pre- heated to 180 degrees Celsius. Bake until the pudding is set (about 45 minutes). Let cool and then refrigerate. To serve, dip each of the custard cups into hot water and then turn upside down on chilled plates. Serve well chilled. (Serves 6 - 8).

Date and Orange Pudding

At a recent Israeli food festival, I met a man who told me that he was formerly a chef in the household of Syrian President Assad. He did no want to give me his name and I, being a gentleman, did not pursue the matter but he did give me the following recipe which he told me was a Syrian favorite. I have since learned that the dessert, which is popular throughout Syria, is often served at state dinners held in the presidential palace in Damascus.

2 oranges
4 cups pitted dates
1 1/4 cups beer
1 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
3/4 cup sugar
2 Tablespoons cornstarch
sweetened whipped cream for serving (optional)

Peel and completely remove the pith from the orange. Grate the rind and set aside. Cut the oranges in slices and set aside.

Chop the dates coarsely and combine in a saucepan with the beer, cinnamon, cardamom and 1 tsp. of sugar. Boil, stirring regularly, until the mixture attains the consistency of heavy jam. Divide the mixture into individual dessert glasses. Over each portion lay one orange slice.

Blend the cornstarch into a smooth paste using water as necessary.

Place the sugar and orange rind into a saucepan with 10 Tbsp. of water Bring to a boil and slowly add the cornstarch, stirring constantly. Boil for 2 - 3 minutes and then pour over the pudding. Serve hot or cold and with or without sweetened whipped cream.

Liqueur Parfait

A recipe from chef Dominique Michou of the "Maison de Boeuf" in Strasbourg, France. Michou says that the recipe is Irish in origin.

1 cup sugar
8 egg yolks
1/3 cup Courvoisier, Cointreau or kirsch liqueur
1 cup sweet cream

In a small saucepan mix together the sugar with 3/4 cup of water. Over a high flame, stirring constantly, dissolve the sugar. After the sugar has dissolved completely, let boil for 5 minutes longer without stirring.

In a large bowl beat the egg yolks until fluffy, ideally with an electric mixer. Very gradually add the hot sugar syrup, mixing constantly at a high speed and continue to beat until the mixture is thick and completely cooled. Fold in the liqueur.

In a separate bowl, lightly fold about half of the egg yolk mixture into the cream and then fold the cream into the remaining egg yolk mixture. Pour the mixture into individual brandy glasses, cover with plastic wrap and freeze until firm (at least 8 hours). Transfer to the regular refrigerator compartment about 20 minutes before serving. (Serves 8).

Honey-Ginger Ice Cream

Adapted from a recipe by Chef Eduard Mitsche of the Hilton International Hotel in Vienna.

1/2 cup dry white wine
40 grams fresh ginger, grated
250 grams honey
2 cups milk
4 egg yolks, lightly beaten
6 large ripe peaches, halved and pitted
24 sweet cherries, halved and pitted or 150 grams of raspberries or blueberries

In a small saucepan combine the white wine, ginger and two-thirds of the honey. Bring to a boil and boil until the mixture is reduced to about 150 ml. Strain and set aside for further use.

In the top of a double boiler heat the milk. Measure out 1 cup of the warm milk and whisk this slowly into the egg yolks. Add this mixture to the remaining milk, place the pan over simmering water and stir for about 5 minutes, until the mixture coats the back of a metal spoon. Remove from the heat and strain into a bowl that has been set in iced water. Let this custard cool, stirring often and when it is completely cool add the strained honey-ginger mixture and the remaining honey.

Pour the mixture into a ceramic or earthenware container and place in the freezer just until it begins to freeze. Remove from the freezer and stir thoroughly. Repeat this process three times in all before covering the container with plastic wrap and letting the ice cream freeze solidly. Let the ice cream stay in the freezer for at least 12 hours before serving.

To serve, slice the peaches and place the slices in well chilled dessert glasses. Place a ball of the ice cream in the center of each glass, and around the ice cream place the cherry halves, blackberries or blueberries. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov