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There can be little question that ancient history has treated
bakers more kindly than chefs. In the households of the Pharaohs for example,
it was considered traditional to give a retiring baker a small house, an acre
of land within sight of the Nile river and a pension that would see him comfortably
through the rest of his life. Retiring chefs on the other hand were given nothing
more than a few coins, a donkey and a bag of oats with which they could feed the
donkey for a week or so. That this attitude passed on to the Greeks is seen in
the declaration of Diphilus of Siphnos that "bakers are trustworthy men as
is demonstrated every day when the open their shops at four in the mornings in
order that we may have fresh, tasty bread for our tables". Cooks, on the
other hand, said Diphilus, "are little more than scoundrels, and even if
they succeed in putting foods on our tables, we never know what terrible things
are hidden beneath their dark and smelling sauces". Even Homer seemed to
agree with this, for when a monster had eaten the baker of his hero Odysseus,
that great warrior cried out in dismay: "And what will happen to us now,
for any among us can roast a cow but none has mastered the art of making breads
and sweet cakes".
The odd thing about all of this is that until the onset of the 14th century there
were really not all that many differences in the roles that were fulfilled by
people who worked professionally in the kitchen. Although bakers traditionally
had the responsibility for preparing bread, a working distinction between the
chef and the conditore was rare in the kitchen. From pea soups to honey cakes
and from roast pigs to fruit pies, there was little formal hierarchy in the kitchen
until the onset of the 15th century, at which time the wealthy and powerful Medici
family of Florence realized that their foods would be much better if different
chefs were made responsible for different aspects of each meal. Thus was born
the division of power between cold chefs, hot chefs, dessert chefs, pastry chefs
and sauce chefs.
Before these distinctions were made, cooks were the people responsible for virtually
everything that would make its way to the dining table. That cooks had to be masters
of every form of cookery is seen in the use of the "trencher". Because
the use of plates did not become popular until after the Middle-Ages, one of the
most important jobs of any chef was to bake "trenchers", large disks
of bread that would be put in front of every guest at the dinner table on which
would go their meats, potatoes, vegetables and whatever else was being eaten.
Every competent chef had at least eight different recipes for making these edible
plates. One recipe was prepared for meals in which sauces were used, another was
baked for use primarily with meats and yet another was prepared specially for
eating sweet courses. There were trenchers for everyday dining and for religious
feasts. There were even special trenchers to go on the table for weddings.
None of which was easy, because in addition to understanding the nature of the
food they were preparing chefs also had to have a knowledge of the psychology
of the diners at the table. If a trencher became soggy too fast it might cause
gravy to drip on the lap of a king; if it fell apart on the table it might make
a prince look ridiculous; and if it was too hard it might cause a toothless princess
to look foolish. One might even say that being a chef-conditore was somewhat dangerous,
for medieval kings and princes did not enjoy being made to look foolish and frequently
punished offending chefs by cutting off one or two of their fingers.
As time has gone on, the distinctions between the work of the baker-conditore
and the cook-chef have grown wider. The truth is however, that even modern day
chefs need a certain repertoire of knowledge of the art of baking. Pasta, meat
and vegetable pies, fish or meat in pastry shells and vol-au-vents all require
a knowledge of pastry dough. Even burrekas, pizzas and Moroccan cigars rely on
such knowledge. Brillat-Savarin, the 17th century gourmet and philosopher of the
kitchen observed that "a chef who has no knowledge of pastry is a chef with
only one arm".
This series of articles is thus devoted to a review of those arts that rightfully
belong in the domain of the baker-conditores but also have a distinct place in
the working knowledge of all competent chefs. Hopefully, the information and recipes
will also be useful to those who cook at home entirely for their pleasure.
Note: For instructions on filling a pie or flan tin or on how to blind bake
a pastry crust, see the end of this article.
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Puff Pastry
Pate Feuilletee
15 gr. butter, melted
200 gr. butter, chilled
225 gr. flour
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. lemon juice
6 - 8 Tbsp. cold water
Sift the flour onto a marble slab or cooled work surface and make a well in the
center. Place the salt, lemon juice and 6 Tbsp. of water in the well and mix these
ingredients briefly with the fingertips. Gradually work in the flour, using the
fingertips of both hands until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. If the mixture
is dry add a bit more water, a few drops at a time. Cut the dough several times
to ensure that the ingredients are thoroughly mixed but do not knead. Press the
dough into a ball, wrap and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Sprinkle the cold butter lightly with flour and then soften it by pounding with
a rolling pin. When flattened, fold it in half and continue to fold and flatten
until the butter is pliable but not sticky. The butter should be close to the
dough in consistency. Shape the butter into a 15 cm square.
Roll out the dough to a 30 cm. square so that it is slightly thicker in the center
than at the sides. Set the butter in the center of the dough and fold the dough
around it like an envelope. Place this parcel, seam side down on the work surface
and press the rolling pin on it a few times to flatten it slightly.
Roll the dough out to a rectangle about 18 cm wide and 45 cm. long. Fold one end
of the rectangle over the other so that it looks like a neatly folded business
letter. Gently press the seams with a rolling pin to seal and turn the dough 1/4
turn (90 degrees). Repeat the rolling, folding and turning process again and then
wrap the dough in muslin cloth and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Repeat the turning,
rolling and folding process until the dough has been rolled out and folded 6 times
in all. If at any time the dough becomes too soft, refrigerate between rollings
for 15 minutes. After all of the rolling out and folding process has been completed
chill the dough for 1 - 2 hours before using.
Hint: Making puff pastry is far easier when working on a well chilled surface.
To cool a work surface, fill a baking pan with ice and place it on the surface
before working on it.
Note: Puff pastry is best when used fresh but can be stored in the refrigerator
for 24 hours before baking if wrapped in plastic wrap. After baking it can be
kept well in the refrigerator for 2 - 3 days if placed in an airtight container.
Baked or unbaked puff pastry can be stored in the freezer for up to 2 weeks.
Salmon in Puff Pastry
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, chopped coarsely
1/2 kilo poached salmon, flaked
2/3 cup tomato sauce
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup sweet red peppers, chopped and lightly sauteed
1 hard boiled egg, chopped finely
1 anchovy, chopped
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
salt and pepper to taste
1 recipe puff pastry
In a heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion until it is translucent.
Add the remaining ingredients, except the pastry and cook for 5 - 6 minutes longer.
Roll the pastry about 1/2 cm. thick and cut into rectangles about 8 x 10 cm. On
each rectangle place about 1 Tbsp. of the filling down the center. Fold over and
pinch the edges to seal. Place on a lightly greased cookie tin and bake in a medium
hot oven, on the uppermost rack, until well browned (15 - 20 minutes). Turn with
a spatula and return to the oven for 5 minutes longer. Serve browned side up and
serve hot. Serve as appetizers.
Vol au Vents
Ask nearly any French chef and he will tell you that there are no dishes more
gentle, more subtle and more pleasing to the palate than those known as vol au
vents. Although some chefs prefer to use flaky pastry (pate brisee) to make these
delicacies, they are most often made with puff pastry. With either dough, a large
shell of the pastry is baked blind and then filled with a ragout - a well seasoned
mixture of meat, fowl, game, fish or vegetable in a thick white or brown sauce.
To prepare the pastry for a vol au vent, roll puff pastry into a rectangle about
17 x 45 cm. From this, using a 20 cm. circle as a guide, cut two circles with
a sharp, hot knife. Leave one of the circles whole and place it, cut-side down
on a baking sheet that has been sprinkled lightly with water. Cut a 13 cm. round
out of the other circle and place the rim which this cut forms, also cut-side
down, over the whole circle. Again with a hot knife, cut diagonal gashes along
the edge. The pastry shell should be refrigerated for about an hour and then baked
blind (the 13 cm. circle that remains may be baked separately and used as a lid).
Several excellent combinations for filling hot vol-au-vents include:
- diced calves' brains bound with Allemande, Bechamel or veloute sauce
- diced chicken livers, sauteed in butter, mixed with mushrooms and bound with
concentrated chasseur sauce,
- diced chicken bound with Allemande, Bechamel, cream or veloute sauce
- chicken livers or foie gras bound with Madeira, Port or Sherry sauce
- lobster bound with Bechamel, Nantua or lobster sauce
- left over beef, veal, lamb, mutton or pork, cut in dice and bound with brown
or white sauce
- lightly sauteed diced mushrooms, seasoned with a bit of Madeira or Port wine
and bound with concentrated demi-
glace or other concentrated brown sauce.
- shrimps bound with Bechamel or shrimp sauce
- sweetbreads bound with Allemande, Bechamel, Madeira or demi-glace sauce
Patty Shells
Bouchees
Close cousins to the vol-au-vent, bouchees are always made with puff pastry that
has baked blind and filled with various mixtures. The major difference between
the two is that bouchees are always made with mini-pastry shells which will be
served as individual portions.
To prepare 10 10 cm. bouchee shells, roll the puff pastry into a rectangle about
18 x 40 cm. With a 6 1/2 or 8 cm. hot fluted pastry cutter cut out ten circles.
Using a 4 or 6 cm. cutter make incisions in each circle that penetrate about 2/3
through the dough, taking care not to push the cutter all the way through. Refrigerate
and then bake as you would a vol-au-vent. As soon as the shells are removed from
the oven, release the inner circles. The hollow shells are filled and the top
halfs of the smaller circles can be baked separately and used as tops for the
shells. (Hint: The lower half of the smaller circles should be discarded because
they are damp and only partialy baked).
Bouchees are often made for luncheon entrees. If made even smaller they are called
Petites Bouchees, which means "little mouthfulls" and are ideal for
hot hors d'oeuvres. Following are several of the better known versions of this
dish:
- Bouchees a la Clamart - fill the bouchees with a puree of green peas and sweet
cream.
- Bouchees a la Dieppoise are filled with a salpicon of mussels and prawns blended
with white wine sauce
- Bouchees a la Julienne are made by cutting carrots, celery and other vegetables
into matchsticks, stewing them in
butter and then mixing together with sweet cream
- Bouchees a la Reine, probably the most famous of all French hors d'oeuvres,
is made with a salpicon of white chicken
meat, mushrooms and truffles, all bound with Allemande sauce.
- Bouchees of lobster or other shellfish are made by cooking the seafood and binding
it with Bechamel or veloute sauce
based on fish stock and finished with red butter.
Choux Pastry
Pate a Choux
100 gr. butter
1/2 tsp. salt
100 gr. flour, sifted
4 eggs
1 Tbsp. sugar if to be used with a sweet filling
In a saucepan with 1 cup of water heat the butter and salt until the butter is
melted. Bring just to a boil and add the flour all at once. Beat with a wooden
spoon until the mixture is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the saucepan.
Over a very low flame beat until the mixture is dry (30 - 45 seconds), remove
from the flame and set aside to cool for several minutes.
Beat the eggs lightly and then add these, a little at a time, to the dough, beating
well after each addition. Continue beating until the dough is shiny and just falls
from the spoon. Use at once.
To make choux pastry balls place the dough in a pastry bag. To form round balls
hold the tub close to the baking sheet while squeezing the dough out, taking care
not to move the bag. Let the baste bubble around the tube until the desired size
is reached. Bake the shells in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees
Celsius for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 170 degrees and bake for about 25 minutes
longer. Do not remove the balls from the oven until they are firm to the touch.
(Hint: After removing from the oven place the shells in a draft-free place to
cool before filling). To fill the shells, cut them horizontally with a sharp knife.
If any damp dough remains inside, remove it with the fingers.
Note: Unsweetened, choux pastry can be used as a basis for making hors d'oeuvres
cases, a variety of filled pies, gnocchi and potatoes dauphinoise. Choux pastry
should be used within 8 hours after it has been made. Under no circumstances should
it be frozen. Once cooked, choux puffs become tough after about 24 hours.
Pashtet
Russian Chicken Pie
1 cup butter, melted
4 medium onions, sliced
3 cups cooked rice
1/4 cup fresh dill, minced
4 hard boiled eggs, sliced
2 chickens, about 1 kilo each, roasted, boned and sliced
salt, pepper and paprika to taste
1 recipe for choux pastry
In a skillet with 1/4 cup of the butter saute the onions until just golden.
In a mixing bowl combine the rice, dill and 1/4 cup of the butter, mixing well.
In a well buttered 20 x 30 cm. casserole dish arrange a layer of1/3 of the rice;
a layer of 1/2 the onions; a layer of 1/2 the sliced eggs and then all of the
chicken. Repeat the layers of rice, onions and sliced eggs and then top with a
final layer of rice, seasoning each layer of rice, eggs and chicken with salt
and pepper. Sprinkle the top layer of rice with paprika to taste.
Cover with the puff pastry, insert a large, plain pastry tube in the center and
bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to medium and bake
for 20 minutes longer. Into the pastry tube pour the remaining butter and cook
for an additional 5 minutes. Serve hot. (Serves 6).
Dauphinoise Potatoes
6 cups of very smooth, freshly mashed potatoes
1 cup choux pastry
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1/2 cup Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese, grated finely
1/4 cup milk
salt and pepper to taste
breadcrumbs as required
oil for deep frying
Place the mashed potatoes in a saucepan and add the pastry and nutmeg, mixing
well. Add the grated cheese and milk and heat over a low flame, stirring constantly,
until the cheese is completely melted and the mixture is even throughout. Season
to taste with salt and pepper and let cool.
Shape the potato mixture into 2 - 3 cm. balls and then roll the balls in breadcrumbs,
coating well. Deep fry in oil that has been heated to 180 degrees Celsius until
the potato balls are golden. Drainon absorbent toweling, sprinkle with salt and
serve immediately.
Flaky Pastry - Also Known as Rich Shortcrust Pastry)
Pate Brisee
To line 1 28 - 30 cm. flan case or to line 8 8 1/2 cm. tartlet shells
250 gr. flour
125 gr. butter
2 egg yolks
3/4 tsp. salt
3 - 4 Tbsp. cold water
Sift the flour onto a flat work surface and make a well in the center. Pound the
butter with a rolling pin to soften it. Place the butter, egg yolks and salt with
a little of the water in the well and work with the flour until partly mixed.
Using the fingertips of both hands gradually work in the flour to form coarse
crumbs. If the crumbs are very dry add more water, a few drops at a time. Press
the dough into a ball. It should be soft but not sticky.
Flour a working surface and knead the dough lightly until smooth and pliable.
Press into a ball. Wrap in waxed paper or plastic film and chill for at least
1 hour before using.
Note: Flaky pastry is especially suitable for moist fillings. The pastry can blind
baked a day or two in advance and kept in the refrigerator if tightly sealed.
Flaky pastry loses its moisture if frozen and loses its lightness if refrigerated
for more than 2 days.
Quiche Lorraine
125 gr. sliced bacon
1 recipe for flaky pastry
1 egg white, lightly beaten
1/2 cup Emmenthal or Gruyere cheese, diced
1 cup milk
1 cup sweet cream
3 eggs
1 tsp. chives, chopped
1.4 tsp. salt
dash each white pepper and ground nutmeg
Cut the bacon in 1 cm. pieces and cook the pieces in a heavy skillet stirring
constantly until the fat is liquefied but the bacon is not yet crisp. Drain the
bacon on absorbent toweling.
Line a 23 cm. pie tin with the pastry and brush the dough with the lightly beaten
egg white. On this sprinkle the bacon pieces and then sprinkle over the cheese.
Bake in a medium-hot oven for 15 minutes, not allowing the mixture to brown completely.
Combine the milk and cream in a saucepan and bring just to the point of boiling.
Remove from the flame and set aside to cool for 10 minutes.
In a bowl, beat together the eggs, chives salt, pepper and nutmeg and over this
pour the cooled milk and cream. Pour the mixture into the pie shell and bake in
a medium-hot oven until the top is golden brown (35 -40 minutes). Do not overcook.
Allow tocool and serve lukewarm. (Serve 4 - 6).
Fish Pastries
2 recipes for flaky pastry
2 large trout, filleted
olive oil as required
1 cup butter, melted
6 thin slices cheddar or gorgonzola cheese
1 cup breadcrumbs
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
salt and pepper to taste
lemon wedges for garnish
Distribute the pastry in 6 small pie tins or low ovenproof casserole dishes and
bake blind.
Flatten the filets and brush them generously with olive oil. Sprinkle the filets
lightly with salt and pepper and grill under a hot broiler until the fish is done.
Flake the fish and distribute the meat in the pie shells. Over the fish pour half
of the melted butter and on this lay a slice of the cheddar cheese. Sprinkle over
with the breadcrumbs and then with the Parmesan cheese. Pour over the remaining
butter and bake in a hot oven until the cheese is melted and begins to bubble.
Serve hot, garnished with lemon wedges.
Two More Similar to Flaky Pastry
Even though flaky pastry (pate brisee) is highly versatile, there are two other
versions of this pastry that deserve to be considered. Sweet flaky pastry (or
as it is also known flan pastry) is especially useful in vegetable pies and flans
where a light touch of sweetness can add positively to the nature of the dish,
and Pate Sablee is used to positive advantage in flans or pies that are filled
partially or entirely with fruits.
Sweet Flaky Pastry/Flan Pastry
Pate Sucree
1 - 1 1/4 cups flour
100 gr. butter, chilled and cut into pieces
2 tsp. sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
3 Tbsp. ice water
Place 1 cup of the flour and the remaining ingredients in a food processor and
process just until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs (about 10 seconds). Add
the ice water and pulse just until the pastry begins to hold together (6 - 8 times).
Do not let the pastry form a fall. Transfer the pastry to waxed paper and flatten
the dough into a disk. If it seems too sticky, sprinkle with additional flour
1 Tbsp. at a time and work it into the dough. Wrap in waxed paper and refrigerate
for 1 - 2 hours before using. ³
Sweet Flan Pastry
Pate Sablee
1 cup flour
6 Tbsp. butter, chilled and cut into pieces
1/8 tsp. salt
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
1 large egg, beaten lightly
Place the flour, butter, salt and sugar in food a processor and process just until
mixture resembles coarse crumbs (about 10 seconds). Add the egg and pulse just
until the pastry begins to hold together (about 20 times). Remove the pastry from
the food processor and place it on a sheet of waxed paper. Flatten the dough into
a disc. ³
Dust the fingers with flour and then, working very quickly with just the fingertips,
press the dough into a 27 cm lose-bottomed black tin tart pan. Press the dough
up the sides of the shell and crimp evenly. Cover carefully with plastic wrap
or foil and refrigerate 2 - 3 hours before using.
Dough For Meat Turnovers
3 Tbsp. each butter and salad oil
1/4 tsp. salt
2 1/2 cups flour
1 egg
In a saucepan heat together the butter, oil, salt and 1 cup of water over a low
flame until the butter is melted. Remove from the flame and, all at once, add
the flour. Stir until completely dissolved and beat in the egg until the dough
is smooth.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured board and knead briefly, adding flour if
necessary, to form a smooth, elastic dough that is not sticky. Cover and let stand
30 minutes. Roll the dough thin and cut into circles to suit the size of the meat
filling. Use as directed in various recipes.
Miniature Meat Pies
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, chopped finely
1/4 cup green pepper, chopped finely
3 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/2 kilo ground beef
salt and pepper to taste
3 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 Tbsp. dry red wine
1/4 - 1/2 tsp. crushed dried red chili peper
1 recipe for pastry for meat turnovers
oil for deep frying
In a large heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute together the onion, green
pepper and garlic until the green pepper is tender. Add the meat, increase to
a high flame and cook, stirring regularly, until the meat is lightly browned.
Season to taste with salt and pepper add the tomato paste, wine, chili pepper
and 1/2 cup of water. Stir well, cover and cook for 10 minutes.
Divide the dough into 32 balls of 4 cm. each and roll each into a 7 cm. circle.
On each circle place 1 Tbsp. of the filling in the center, pull up the sides and
pinch to seal. In a heavy skillet heat oil at least 3 cm. deep until very hot.
Lower the flame and fry the meat pies slowly, turning often, until golden on all
sides. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towelingand serve piping hot
as an appetizer.
Meat, Cheese and Tchina Pastries
In Lebanon and Egypt where these pastries are very popular as appetizers, it
is traditional to serve all three kinds of pastries - meat, cheese and tchina
- simultaneously.
For the pastry:
Make the turnover dough in the usual way but substitute 1/4 cup of yoghurt for
the egg
The Cheese Filling:
1/2 cup feta cheese, well crumbled
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1/2 egg, separated
black pepper to taste
The Meat Filling:
1/2 cup ground beef
spring onion, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 egg yolk
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. pine nuts, chopped
1/2 tsp. cumin
The Tchina Filling:
4 Tbsp. tchina
2 Tbsp. each lemon juice and finely chopped parsley
1 clove garlic, crushed
salt and pepper to taste
To make the cheese filling combine the cheese, egg yolk and parsley and season
to taste with pepper. (Reserve the egg white for a glaze).
To make the meat filling combine the chopped meat, onion, parsley and egg yolk.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Reserve the cumin and pine nuts for a topping).
To prepare the tchina filling, combine the ingredients and season with salt and
pepper to taste.
Divide the pastry dough into three equal portions. Roll out one portion of the
dough as thick as for a pie crust. Cut out 12 5 cm. circles and transfer these
to an ungreased cookie sheet. Divide the meat mixture evenly among the circles,
spreading nearly to the edges. Sprinkle each of the portions with the cumin and
press a few pine nuts into the top. Set aside.
Roll out a second portion of the dough and again cut into 12 circles. Transfer
to an ungreased cookie sheet and on each spread a spoonfull of the tchina, covering
each right to the edge. Set aside.
Roll out the final portion of the dough and again cut into 12 circles. Places
6 of these on an ungreased cookie sheet and divide the cheese mixture among them,
spreading not quite to the edges. Place the remaining circles on top of these
and press together, sealing with water. In the top of each of the cheese pastries
make a small cross with a sharp knife. Mix the reserved egg white with 1 tsp.
water and with this brush the top of the cheese pastries.
Place the cookie sheets in a hot oven, with the meat pastries on the uppermost
rack. Bake the tchina pastries until lightly browned (about 15 minutes), the meat
pastries until the nuts and meat are browned (about 20 minutes), and the cheese
pastries until the pastry is golden (about 30 minutes). Serve hot or at room temperature.
(Yields about 30 small pastries).
Chorizo Pie
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1/4 kilo chorizo or other very spicy sausage, skinned and cut in thin slices
1/4 kilo pork loin or mullard breast, cut about 1/2 cm. thick and in thin strips
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
1 large sweet red pepper cut in thin strips
pinch of saffron
salt and pepper to taste
2 hard boiled eggs, chopped
1 recipe dough for meat turnovers
1 egg, beaten lightly
1 Tbsp. milk
In a large heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onion and garlic until
the onion is translucent. Add the chorizo and pork or mullard and cook, stirring
occasionally over a medium flame, for 10 minutes. Add the tomato, red pepper,
saffron, salt and pepper, stir well and continue cooking, uncovered, over a low
flame for 10 minutes longer. Remove from the flame, sprinkle in the hard boiled
eggs and then thin the mixture with 4 Tbsp. of warm water. Let stand to cool for
20 - 30 minutes.
Cut the pastry dough in half and roll each half into a circle about 30 cm. in
diameter. Place one of the circles in an ungreased 23 cm. pie tin, letting the
edges extend over the side of the tin. Add the filling, cover the pie with the
second half of the dough. Fold the bottom dough over the top and press to seal.
Make several slits in the center of the pie.
Beat together the beaten egg and milk and with this mixture brush the pie. Bake
in a medium oven until the pie is well browned (about 30 minutes). Remove from
the oven and let stand 15 - 20 minutes before cutting.
To Line a Flan or Pie Tin
Although a bit of practice is necessary in mastering this art, there is nothing
difficult about lining a flan tin. Grease the tin and roll out the dough about
5 mm. thick. Lightly flour the rolling pin and then wrap the dough around the
rolling pin, lift it over the flan tin and unroll it.
Let the dough rest over the edge of the tin, overlapping slightly inside. Taking
care not to stretch the dough, gently lift the edges with one hand and press it
well into bottom corners of the tin. Roll the rolling pin over the top of the
flan in to cut off excess dough and then with the thumb and forefinger, press
the dough evenly up the sides from the bottom to increase the height of the edge.
Neaten the edge with the finger and thumb, being sure that the dough does not
overlap the edge of the tin. Prick the base of the shell several times with the
tines of a fork to prevent air bubbles forming during cooking.
Hint: If possible, use flan tins with removeable bases so that flan shells can
be removed easily once they are baked.
To Blind Bake a Pastry Shell
Many recipes call for the use of pastry shells that are either baked or half-baked
before filling. This simple process, known as blind-baking, ensures that the precooked
pastry can be removed from the tin easily and then be used as a container to cook
whatever filling is to be used. It also ensures that the pastry will be fully
cooked and will not absorb the moisture of the flan or pie filling.
To blind bake a pastry shell, preheat the oven to 190 degrees Celsius. After the
pastry has been placed in the tart tin, line it loosely with heavy duty foil,
pressing the foil well into the edges so that the pastry does not shrink during
baking. Fill the shell with baking weights (uncooked rice or dried beans), making
sure you fill all the way to the edges to prevent shrinkage. For a partially baked
shell, bake just until the pastry begins to brown around the edges and seems firm
enough to stand up by itself (about 20 minutes). Remove the weights and foil and
continue baking until lightly browned all over (about 10 more minutes). For a
fully baked shell, remove the weights and foil and bake for 20 minutes longer.
Watch the pastry carefully so it does not overbake. Cool for at least 10 minutes
before filling.
Note: Some pastry chefs blind bake without the use of the aluminum foil. This
is more a matter of personal taste than a firm rule.
© Daniel Rogov
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