In 1640, the great French chef, Francois Pierre de la Varenne received an invitation to be the chef in the household of the Cardinal of Paris. La Varenne went to the home of the cardinal but, after a short visit to the kitchens walked out in a rage. Three days later the cardinal received a note from La Varenne in which he refused to accept the position because "in your otherwise magnificent kitchen there was only a single bowl of flour. As you would not expect an angel to fly without wings, no chef should be expected to perform his duties with only one kind of flour at his disposal".

La Varenne was not basically a pastry chef. The truth of the matter is, however, that he realized that a variety of different flours was crucial to the work of the general chef. The good news for chefs almost anywhere in the world is that a wide variety of flours are now available for both professional and home use. In addition to plain flour (the kind Americans refer to as "all-purpose flour", there is hard flour which is based on duram wheat and with which one can make magnificent pasta; soft flour that will yield marvelously light cakes; country style flour that will make superb pita breads and fruit cakes; and whole wheat and organic flours that will yield rich breads and yeast cakes.

Learning how to put each of these types of flour to its best use is not difficult. Years ago, when I first started baking, a wise teacher at the Cordon Bleu School in Paris solved the problem for me by suggesting that I could discover the best qualities of each type of flour by preparing a single recipe six times, once with each type of flour. The recipe I prepared in six different forms and which remains a personal favorite, was for "focaccia" the flat bread that is been a specialty of Tuscany for many centuries. Garnished far more simply than pizza, the bread is sometimes called "white pizza" because many things can be put on it but never tomatoes. In its most traditional form, after the bread has been baked it is sprinkled with olive oil, salt and sweet paprika. There are many variations and the most popular of these use herbs such as sage, rosemary, tarragon and, in the Middle-East za'atar. In another popular form, the bread is baked together with onions, and this is the recipe given below. My teacher was correct. By preparing this simple recipe with each of the various flours available, cooks will quickly discover the different charms of each. As to Focaccia, one will do well to keep in mind that this is an extremely popular offering in Italian restaurants and makes an excellent accompaniment to any Italian or Mediterranean meal.


Focaccia
Based on a recipe by Lorenza de'Medici
4 cups flour
30 gr. yeast, dissolved in 2/3 cup of lukewarm water
1/2 kilo onions, sliced thinly
1/4 cup olive oil
salt

Heap the flour into a mound on a wood board or other flat working surface. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the dissolved yeast, adding water as necessary to mix into a soft dough. Knead the dough for at least 10 minutes and then shape the dough into a ball. Sprinkle a bowl lightly with flour and place the dough ball into the bowl. Cover and set aside to rise until doubled in volume.

Knead the dough for two or three minutes, then transfer the ball to an oven tray that has been sprinkled lightly with flour. Pat the dough into a circle about 20 centimeters in diameter and 1centimeter high and then set aside for 1/2 hour.

In a skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions just until they are translucent. Distribute the onions over the dough, season with salt and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius until the onions begin to brown on top. Let cool several minutes before serving. To serve, cut in wedges as you would a pizza. (Serves 6).

Standard Pie Crust/Standard Pastry Dough

The following recipe is one of the many versions for making the simplest and most basic recipe for pie crusts. Even though this simple dough has many uses (vegetable, meat, fowl and fish pies), it does not bake well with fillings that are too liquidyor that rely heavily on sauces.

1 cup flour, sifted
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
3 Tbsp. butter


Combine the flour and salt and resift.

Combine the vegetable shortening and butter and then cut half of this mixture into the flour, working it in gently with the tips of the fingers until it has the grain of cornmeal. Cut in the remaining shortening and continue working with the fingertips until the pastry is pea-size.

Sprinkle the dough with 2 1/2 Tbsp. water and blend the water lightly into the dough. If necessary add just enough water to bind the ingredients. Roll out the dough and lay it into a 23 cm. pie tin that has been lightly buttered.

Note: If covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated, standard pastry dough can be prepared up to 24 hours in advance. Do not freeze, because the pastry tends to become dry.



Onion Pie
A very popular French/Swiss recipe

1 recipe for standard pie crust
1/4 kilo butter
1 kilo large onions, sliced thinly (select onions that are not too sharp)
1 cup sour cream
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup dry Sherry
1/2 tsp. each salt and celery seed
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1 egg white, beaten lightly
4 strips bacon, cut into squares

Place the pastry in a pie tin and chill for 1 hour.

In a large heavy skillet melt the butter and in this saute the onions until translucent. Let cool at least 1/2 hour.

In a saucepan combine the sour cream, eggs, sherry, salt, celery seed and pepper and heat slowly, stirring, until the mixture is even throughout. Stir this mixture into the onions.

Brush the bottom of the chilled pie shell with the egg white. Fill the pie with the onion mixture and over the top place the bacon. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 235 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 150 degrees. Continue to bake until the crust is light brown (about 1/2 hour). Serve hot.


Fish Pie

In Russia, where this recipe originated, the fish of choice among the wealthy or powerful is sturgeon. The not-so-wealthy and not-at-all powerful also enjoy fish pies, and using trout fillets or salmon fillets is equally acceptable. Because this is a covered pie, two recipes for pie crust will be used in making the dish.

2 recipes for standard pie crust
3/4 kilo sturgeon, trout or salmon fillets, chopped
4 artichoke hearts, chopped
1/4 cup gooseberry jam or red currant jam
1 tsp. each salt and nutmeg
1/2 tsp. pepper
1/2 cup each fish stock and white wine
3 egg yolks, lightly beaten
2 Tbsp. orange juice
1 Tbsp. apple vinegar
butter as required

Using half the pastry, line a 23 cm or 25 cm pie tin. Blind bake the pie shell and the let cool for at least 15 minutes. On the shell arrange alternating layers of fish, artichoke hearts and jam, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

In a small saucepan heat the wine, stock orange juice and vinegar. Pour the egg yolks into the hot mixture, beating well and pour the liquids over the fish. Dot the pie well with butter and let cool for 15 - 20 minutes before covering the pie with the remaining pastry. Bake in a medium-hot oven for 30 - 35 minutes. Serve hot.


Artichoke Pie

2 recipes for standard pie crust
14 artichoke hearts, cooked until tender and chopped
1/2 cup beef marrow, chopped
6 Tbsp. lemon juice
4 sweetbreads, soaked, cleaned and chopped
1 Tbsp. tarragon, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
3 cups sweet cream
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
6 eggs
4 egg yolks

With the pastry dough line 2 23 or 25 cm. pie tins and then blind bake. Set aside to cool.

In a mixing bowl combine the chopped artichokes, marrow and 4 Tbsp. of the lemon juice. Pound these together to make a paste. Distribute this paste evenly over the two pie shells. Scatter over the sweetbreads, sprinkle with the tarragon and the remaining lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a saucepan combine the cream, nutmeg and 1/4 tsp. of salt. Heat through but do not boil. In a bowl beat together the eggs and yolks and over these pour the hot cream, beating well with a whisk. Pour this mixture over the pie filling and bake in a medium oven until set (about 25 minutes). Serve hot.



Phylo Pastry

Making paper thin sheets phylo dough is an art form, one that takes far too much time to be profitable for most chefs. All of which is no problem, for high quality phylo sheets can be purchased commercially. If the sheets come in sealed plastic bags they can be refrigerated or frozen until ready for use. Do not refrigerate phylo for more than a week and do not freeze it for more than three months, because after those limits the leaves will become soggy. Once the bag has been opened, the sheets should be used quickly or they will become dry and brittle.

Hints: Remove phylo dough from the refrigerator about 1/2 hour before use. When cutting sheets of phylo pile them one on top of the other, with no air between them. If the sheets must be left to stand for more than a few minutes, cover them with a slightly damp cloth. Keep in mind as well that most phylo pies can be frozen before cooking and then put straight from the freezer into the oven without thawing. Under no circumstances should phylo pastries be cooked or rewarmed in a microwave oven.


Tiropitakia
Greek cheese pastries
For the Pastry:
1/4 kilo phylo leaves
3/4 cup butter, melted
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1 egg yolk, beaten lightly with 1 Tbsp. cold water

For the Filling:
1/2 cup feta cheese
1 cup Emmenthal or similar cheese, grated finely
85 gr. cream cheese
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley
1/2 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp. nutmeg

Remove the phylo leaves from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature about 1 hour.

Make the filling in a bowl by mashing the feta cheese until it crumbles. Add the remaining ingredients for the filing and mix together thoroughly.

Cut each phylo leaf into a strip 15 x 30 cm. Brush each leaf with the melted butter. Fold the leaves in half lengthwise making strips 6 x 30 cm. Again brush with butter and place 1 Tbsp. of the filling at the bottom of each leaf. Fold over to form a triangle and continue folding, buttering each fold, until the strip is completed. Repeat with each of the strips and place the completed triangles on a well greased cookie tin. Brush the tops of each triangle with butter and then with the egg yolk. Sprinkle over the sesame seeds and bake in a medium oven until the pastries are golden brown and flaky (about 20 - 30 minutes). Serve hot or cool. (Yields 16 - 24 pastries).


Spinach Pie

1 kilo spinach, washed and picked over
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 cup butter, melted
125 gr. Gruyere or other Swiss-style cheese, grated
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 cup spring onions, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
100 gr. phylo pastry leaves

Shake off as much water from the spinach as possible. In a heavy skillet heat the olive oil and 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the spinach, covered, over a high flame, until steam appears. Reduce the flame and simmer until the spinach is tender (5 - 6 minutes). With a slotted spoon remove the spinach from the skillet and chop coarsely. Return to the skillet and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a small mixing bowl combine the cheeses, spring onions and salt and pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the spinach and mix well.

Butter a square casserole dish or cake tin and in the bottom place 6 leaves of the phylo dough. Brush the top of each leaf with butter before covering with the next leaf. Over these spread the prepared spinach and cheese mixture. Cover this with 6 more leaves of the dough, again buttering the leaves and also buttering the top. Be sure that the edges of the pastry are well buttered and bake in a moderate oven for 30 - 40 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes and invert onto a baking dish. Return to the oven until the top is crisp and golden-brown (about 10 minutes). Serve hot or at room temperature.

Special Pastry Doughs


Even though a repertoire of five or six standard pastry doughs will suffice for nearly all circumstances, there are some recipes that demand their own, unique form of pastry. Most of these are merely minor variations on one of the standards, but those variations often add enormously to the charm of the dish being prepared.


Pate de Foie Gras in Pastry Shell?
Pate de Foie en Croute

For the Pastry:
6 cups flour, sifted
1 1/2 cups shortening or lard
2 tsp. salt
10 slices bacon
3 eggs

For the Pate:
675 gr. goose livers
3 eggs
1/4 cup sweet cream
4 slices bacon
2 Tbsp. Cognac or other high quality brandy
2 Tbsp. port wine
1/4 cup flour
2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. each ginger and nutmeg
1/2 tsp. black pepper
8 - 10 slices bacon or fatty smoked mullard breast
2 truffles, sliced, if available
4 slices salt pork or extremely fatty bacon
1 cup beef stock
1 Tbsp. unflavored gelatin
lemon slices and parsley for garnish

Make the pastry dough by combining the flour, shortening and salt. Work together with the fingertips until the mixture is at the consistency of coarse corn meal. Make a well in the mixture and into the center break 2 eggs. Slowly add enough water to make an easily workable dough (use about 3 - 3 1/2 cups water). Roll the dough into a ball, cover and let stand at room temperature for 2 - 3 hours.

Divide the livers into three portions and, in a blender blend one part with 2 of the eggs. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and in the blender blend another part of the livers with the sweet cream. Transfer to a separate bowl and then blend the third part together with the chopped bacon, remaining egg, cognac, wine and flour. Combine the three mixtures and blend together lightly with the salt, ginger, nutmeg and pepper.

Separate the dough into 2 balls, one with 3/4 of the dough and the other with the remaining quarter. Shape the large section so that it will fit into the bottom of a loaf pan. Place the dough in the pan and work slowly with the fingers so that it will thin out and cover the sides. With the fingers pat the dough thin and let the crust lap over the top. Be sure not to tear the dough.

Lay in the bacon slices so that they cross the bottom and come up the sides, laying over the edges.

Gently lay in about half of the pate mixture and in the center place the truffle slices. Cover with the remaining pate and top with the salt pork, thinly sliced. Fold over the bacon strips so that they cover the top of the pate.

From the remaining dough roll out a 1/2 cm thick section for a crust. Crimp the edges together with those from the sides and cut off the excess.

Mix together the remaining egg with 2 Tbsp. cold water and with this mixture brush the crust. With a sharp knife place 3 - 4 cuts for venting in the crust. Lightly cover with aluminum foil and place in an oven that has been preheated to hot. After 5 minutes reduce to low heat. Allow to bake 45 minutes, remove the foil and let bake until done (about 35 - 40 minutes longer). Test to see if the pate is done by inserting a wooden toothpick. If the toothpick comes out clean the pate is finished.

Remove from the oven and let the pate cool in its pan. While it is cooling mix together the meat stock and the gelatin. Place a funnel in one of the vents of the upper crust and fill the space between the pate and the crust with the gelatin mixture. Do notoverfill and take great care not to moisten the exterior of the crust. Refrigerate in the pan for at least 24 hours before removing from the mold.

To unmold the pate, dip the loaf pan in lukewarm water for about 1 minute being sure not to wet the crust. Run a sharp knife blade around the edges where the crust may have adhered and then turn onto a rack, gently and smoothly. (If the pate sticks, rap on the edge of the pan with the edge of a knife). Immediately turn the pate right side up on a precooled serving plate. Serve in slices at least 1 cm. thick, garnished with lemon slices and parsley. The pate may be sliced in the kitchen prior to serving but many find that it adds a luxurious touch if the whole pate is brought to the table and the pate sliced ceremoniously as guests look on.

Boeuf en Croute
Sometimes known as `Beef Wellington


The Duke of Wellington, a respected general and the consummate 19th century politician, maintained British tradition by his constant devotion to roast beef. The "Iron Duke", as he was known to his soldiers, had a special love for the dish that was created in his honor and first served in the presence of the royal family. Although the recipe is long, the dish is not difficult to prepare and is an impressive addition to any prestigious menu.

For the Dough:
15 grams dry yeast
1/2 kilo flour
6 eggs, beaten lightly
2 tsp. salt
25 gr. sugar
250 gr. butter
Madeira sauce for serving (recipe follows) (may
substitute any other rich brown sauce)

For the Beef:
1 tenderloin or fillet of beef, about 1 1/2 kilos,
trimmed and tied
salt and pepper to taste
3 Tbsp. oil
2 eggs, beaten lightly with a pinch of salt
about 36 seedless raisins

For the Duxelles:
25 gr. butter
the green parts of 2 spring onions, chopped
1/2 kilo mushrooms, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

Make the dough: In a medium bowl dissolve the yeast in 2 Tbsp. of lukewarm water. Add 2 Tbs. of the flour, let stand for 5 - 10 minutes and then add all but about 1/2 of one of the eggs. Sift the remaining flour into a large mixing bowl and pour the egg and yeast mixture into the flour. Using a mixer fitted with a dough hook, beat the mixture until it is soft and sticky. If the dough is dry, beat in the remaining egg little by little.

Pound the butter with your fist to soften it and then beat the butter into the dough, mixing thoroughly. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turning to coat all sides. Cover with a clean damp tea-towel and let stand at room temperature until nearly doubled in bulk (about 2 hours).

Place the risen dough on a floured work surface and roll out to a rectangle about 45 cm. long. As you would fold a letter, fold a third of the dough over the middle third and the remaining third over all, patting to knock out the air. Return to the bowl and cover again with a damp cloth. Transfer to the refrigerator and let stand overnight.

Prepare the Beef: Sprinkle the beef with salt and pepper. In a large skillet heat the oil and in this quickly brown the beef on all sides. Remove from the flame and let cool to room temperature.

Prepare the Duxelles: In a large skillet melt the butter and in this saute the green onions for 2 - 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and saute over a high flame until all of the liquids are evaporated. Remove from the flame, add the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Roll out the dough to a rectangle that is about 20 cm. longer and wider than the beef. Spread the dough with the duxelles, leaving a border about 5 cm. wide on all sides. Untie the beef and place on the duxelles. With a knife cut a 5 cm square from each corner of the dough and brush the edges of the rectangle with the beaten eggs. Lift one of the long edges of the dough to the top of the beef, fold the opposite edge to encircle the meat and press gently to seal. Fold up the ends and make a neat package, pressing gently to seal all of the edges.

With a towel, carefully lift the beef and transfer to a lightly greased baking pan, with the seam underneath. With the fingers, push the raisins into the top and sides of the dough and then brush with the beaten eggs. With a sharp knife make 3 equally spaced holes along the length of the beef and into each hole place a rolled tube of aluminum foil (this will allow steam to escape during cooking). Brush again with the eggs, cover and refrigerate for 4 - 5 hours.

Before placing in the oven insert a meat thermometer in the beef. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 235 degrees Celsius for 20 minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 200 degrees for rare meat (the ideal way to serve), cook until the internal meat temperature is 60 degrees Celsius. For medium rare the internal temperature
should be 65 Celsius

When cooked, transfer the beef to a large serving platter and let stand for 10 - 15 minutes before carving. Serve the Madeira sauce in a gravy bowl.

Madeira Sauce

6 Tbsp. Madeira wine
3/4 Tbsp. cornflour
1 1/4 cups brown veal or beef stock
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. butter

In a small bowl mix 1 1/2 Tbsp. of the Madeira with the cornflour to make a paste.

Bring the stock to a boil and gradually whisk the paste into the hot stock. Return to the boil, whisking constantly, and then simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season to taste with salt and pepper and then strain this brown sauce through a fine strainer.

In a heavy skillet or saucepan combine half of the remaining Madeira with the brown sauce and simmer for 8 - 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining Madeira and bring the sauce just to a boil. Remove from the flame and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the butter, swirling the saucepan constantly until the butter has melted.

© Daniel Rogov