It is difficult to think of peaches as being controversial, but in 1976, when French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre suggested that "the essence of French masculinity is the steak; and the symbol of femininity is the peach", feminists were outraged. Sexual stereotypes aside, it is undeniable that three of the world's most famous desserts were named after women. One was dedicated to the Marquisse de Pompadour, one of the mistresses of France's King Louis XV; another after the 19th century society wit and intellectual Madame Juliette Recamier; and yet another after the great Australian opera singer, Dame Nellie Melba.

First cultivated in China during the 10th century B.C.E., references to peaches can be found in the writings of Confucius and for many years appeared as a major motif in Chinese paintings and bas reliefs. The peach tree eventually traveled to Persia and soon after to the Mediterranean and other European areas. Long known as one of the most luxurious of dessert fruits, there are only two major varieties of peaches - those whose stone or pit separates easily from the flesh and those which are more solid in texture and the stone clings to the flesh. The flesh of peaches can be either white or yellow, and the so called "blush" or reddish color present in all peaches is an indication of its variety and not its state of ripeness.

When buying peaches, make sure they are firm but not hard, free of blemishess and covered with a smooth, unwrinkled skin. Most important, peaches should have a pleasant aroma. Peaches are ready to be eaten when slightly soft to the touch. Once they are ready, they can be stored in the refrigerator (always in a single layer to prevent bruising) and should be consumed within a week. Firm peaches will ripen at room temperature if kept at in a single layer and shielded from direct sunlight but peaches that have a grayish-green color were picked too early and there is very little chance that they will ever ripen.

Several of the following recipes require that the peaches be peeled. To do this, simply place the peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds. Transfer them to a bowl of ice cold water and the skins will slip off easily.

Spareribs with Peaches

about 16 spareribs, in sections of 3 or 4 each
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped coarsely
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup cider vinegar
4 cups peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced
1 cup apple cider
1 cup beef stock or canned beef bouillon
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
1/2 tsp. dried rosemary, crumbled
1/2 tsp. dried thyme, crumbled
1 bay leaf
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
generous pinch of ground cloves
2 Tbsp. butter, at room temperature
1 Tbsp. cornflour
2 Tbsp. sweet cream
2 tsp. Dijon mustard

Pat the spareribs dry and season them with salt and pepper to taste. In a shallow roasting pan, heat the oil until it is hot and in this brown the ribs and then transfer them to a plate. Pour off all but 1 Tbsp. of the fat from the roasting pan add the onion and cook over a moderate heat, stirring, until the onion is gold- en. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the vinegar, reduce the liquid to about 2 Tbsp. and add 3 cups of the peaches, the cider, beef stock, tomato paste, rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, ginger and cloves. Return the spareribs to the pan, bring the liquids to a simmer. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and place in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius until they are tender (about 1 1/2 hours).

Transfer the ribs with tongs to a shallow baking pan, brush them with the butter and return them to the oven just until they are crisp (5 - 10 minutes longer). Arrange the ribs on a serving plate and set aside to keep warm.

Skim the fat from the liquids in the roasting pan and then strain the remaining liquids through a fine sieve into a small pot. Place this over a moderately high heat and cook until the liquids are reduced to about 2 cups. Add the remaining peaches and simmer until the peaches are heated through. Bring to a boil, whisk in the corn flour which has been dissolved in the sweet cream and bring to a boil. Continue to boil, whisking constantly, until this sauce is thickened slightly and then stir in the mustard. Pour the sauce over the spareribs and serve immediately. (Serves 4).

Duckling with Peaches

2 medium onions, sliced thinly
2 large carrots, sliced thinly
2 tsp. each parsley and thyme, chopped finely
1 bay leaf, crumbled finely
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 duck, about 2 1/2 kilos, well cleaned
2 Tbsp. each peach brandy and white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
2 tsp. cornflour
8 large peaches salt and pepper to taste

Cover the bottom of a roasting pan with the onion and carrot slices. Sprinkle over the parsley, thyme and bay leaf and then and sprinkle over the garlic. On these place the duck and place in an oven that has been preheated to 235 degrees Celsius. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to 180 degrees Celsius and cook until the duck is tender, piercing the skin often to allow excess fat to escape. (The duck will require about 45 minutes per kilo).

Remove the duck from the pan and set aside to keep warm. Remove the vegetables from the pan and drain off the excess fat. To the remaining liquids add the brandy, wine and stock. Add the cornflour and over a medium flame stir until thickened. Bring to a rapid boil and then strain.

Peel the peaches, halve them and remove the pits. Arrange the peach halves in a heavy skillet and pour over just enough of the gravy to moisten them and cover the bottom of the skillet. Bring to a low boil and simmer for 4 - 5 minutes, turning the peaches once or twice. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the peach halves around the duck and pour over a small amount of the gravy. Serve the remaining sauce separately. (Serves 4 - 6).

Peach Chutney

1 kilo peaches, peeled, pitted and diced
1 onion, minced
1 large clove garlic, crushed
2 cups white vinegar
1 1/4 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup raisins
6 Tbsp. crystallized ginger, chopped very finely (can be bought in health food stores and in many delicatessens)
2 tsp. mustard seeds
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
1/2 tsp. hot red pepper flakes
about 1 tsp. salt

In a large saucepan combine all of the ingredients and bring to a boil, skimming the froth occasionally, and then simmer the mixture gently, skimming the surface often and stirring occasionally until the mixture is thick and brown (45 minutes - 1 hour). Ladle the mixture into heat-proof sterile jars, filling to 1 cm. of the top of the jars. Wipe the rims of the jars with a damp cloth and seal the jars with the lids.

Place the jars on a rack in a deep pot and pour over enough hot water to cover the jars by about 5 cm. Bring the water to a boil and then let boil for 10 minutes. Let the jars cool and then store them in a cool, dark place. Goes superbly with grilled meats, Indian food and nearly all rice dishes.

Peaches a la Pompadour

2 cups milk, boiled with
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 heaping cup flour, sifted
3 1/2 cups sugar
2 Tbsp. kirsch or other cherry liqueur
2 Tbsp. butter 6 egg yolks
2 eggs pinch of salt
12 peaches, halved and pitted
3 stale brioches, sliced breadcrumbs as required
oil or fat for deep frying

In a saucepan combine the milk, flour, kirsch, butter, egg yolks, whole eggs and salt and 1/2 cup of the sugar, mixing well. Bring the mixture to the boil and let boil for 2 - 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour this custard mixture into a ceramic bowl and stir regularly until cool.

In a separate saucepan combine the remaining the sugar with 2 cups of water. Bring to the boil, stirring, reduce the flame and in this syrup gently cook the apricot halves. Drain well.

Fill decorative skewers by threading on, alternately, brioche slices and apricot halves. Dip the skewers in the custard and then roll in the breadcrumbs, coating well.

Heat the deep oil to the point of smoking and fry the apricots until nicely browned. Drain, sprinkle over with the remaining sugar and serve hot as a dessert. (Serves 6 - 8). (Note: This recipe may also be made by using apricots).

Peaches a la Madame Recamier

5 cups sugar
3 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
4 peaches, pitted, halved and peeled
8 egg yolks
pinch of salt
2 1/4 cups milk, boiled

In a saucepan bring 2 cups of water to the boil and in this dissolve 4 cups of the sugar. Strain and filter this syrup into the top of a double boiler, add 3 tsp. of the vanilla extract and place over but not in boiling water. Place the peaches, cut side down, in the syrup, cover and cook gently for 8 - 10 minutes. Drain the peaches and transfer to small dessert plates.

In the top of a double boiler over but not in simmering water blend together the egg yolks, remaining sugar and salt until the syrup forms a ribbon when the spatula is lifted from the pan. Gradually add the boiled milk which has been flavored with the remaining vanilla extract. Pour the custard through a fine sieve and then spoon the custard over the peaches. Serve immediately. (Serves 4).

Peaches Melba
Probably the world's most famous peach dessert

3 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
6 large peaches, halved and peeled (fresh only)
1/2 kilo raspberries, pureed, (ideally fresh but may substitute thawed frozen raspberries if necessary) 1/2 cup currant jelly
4 cups finest quality vanilla ice cream

Prepare a syrup by adding the sugar to 2 cups of water and bringing to a rolling boil. Add the vanilla extract, let cool for several minutes, strain and filter. Into this place the peach halves and let stand until the syrup is cool. Refrigerate until well chilled.

In a small saucepan heat together the raspberries and currant jelly. Let come to room temperature.

Line individual dessert bowls or silver plates with a thick layer of vanilla ice cream. Remove the peach halves from the syrup with a slotted spoon and let drain. In the center of the ice cream lay a peach half, cut side facing down, and over all spoon the sauce generously. Ideally served with sweetened whipped cream. (Serves 6).

Amaretto Peach Ice Cream

750 gr. peaches, peeled, pitted and sliced
1 cup sugar
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 cup macaroon cookies, crumbled
3 Tbsp. Amaretto liqueur
6 egg yolks
2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 cups sweet cream, very well chilled

In a bowl toss the peaches with 1/4 cup of the sugar and the lemon juice and let the mixture stand for 30 minutes. Drain the mixture and in a food processor puree the peaches. In a heavy saucepan combine the remaining sugar with 1/4 cup of water. Bring the mixture to a boil, making sure none of the sugar crystallizes on the side of the pan and then simmer until the syrup is a pale golden caramel. Slowly and very carefully (to avoid splashing) add 1/2 cup of water to the mixture and continue to simmer until the caramel is dissolved.

In a small bowl sprinkle the cookies with the Amaretto liqueur and let them stand for 5 minutes. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks until they are thick and pale in color and then add the syrup in a stream, beating constantly. Continue to beat until the mixture is cool and then stir in the remaining ingredients.

Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer's instructions or, if you do not have an ice-cream freezer, pour the mixture into bowls and place in the freezer. When ice crystals begin to form on the surface, beat the mixture well. Return to the freezer and repeat this process two more times. Finally, transfer to serving bowls and let freeze solid. (Yields about 2 1/2 liters of ice cream).

Peaches in Dessert Wine

4 large ripe peaches, peeled, halved and sliced
1 - 1 1/2 cups sweet white dessert wine
4 tsp. confectioners' sugar
juice of 2 lemons

Distribute the peach slices between 4 dessert glasses. Over each peach sprinkle 1 tsp. of the confectioners' sugar and squeeze the juice of lemon. Cover and refrigerate. Immediately before serving pour over just enough of the wine to cover the fruit. (Serves 4).

© Daniel Rogov