When the followers of Jacob Amman came to America in the early 18th century, they were seeking a place where they could practice their religion without being persecuted. Amman, a bishop in the Swiss Mennonite church rejected any intellectual approach to religion and believed that the true way to know God was through extensive study of the Bible and deeply intimate religious experiences. His followers, who settled in what is now the eastern part of the State of Pennsylvania, believed in hard work and a simple life without modern conveniences. Conscientious objectors, who refused on religious grounds to serve in any army, they also held firmly to the belief that every community should be autonomous, neighbor helping neighbor and not relying on help from governmental agencies.

In addition to the social mores and costumes of their native countries, Amman's followers also brought with them a four-century old culinary tradition. They transplanted Rhineland vines to their new home and came equipped with a belief in serving a profusion of foods at all meals. It was traditional, for example, at every meal of the day to set out a wide variety of foods and soups, meat dishes, salads, vegetables and sweets were served buffet-style at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

In nearly three hundred years since they came to the New World, little has changed for the Amish and the Mennonites, the two groups that followed Amman to the New World. Referred to today as the "Pennsylvania Dutch" (even though most of the original settlers came from either Switzerland or Germany), theirs is a life-style that some find enviable for its simplicity and others judge to be old-fashioned. Nearly all of the Pennsylvania Dutch are still farmers, but, because they do not believe in using modern tools, they seed their crops by hand, their fields are tended by horse-drawn plows and harvesting is done entirely with hand held reapers.

Most Pennsylvania Dutch houses have no electricity, and even though some have telephones they are for used only in cases of emergency and never for social purposes. Baking is done in cast-iron ovens fueled by wood, and cooking is done on wood burning stoves or in large kettles supported by a tripod over an open fire in the fireplace. The children go to small community schools where, in addition to English they are taught the dialect of High German that is still spoken in their homes. When families go to other villages to visit, they travel in horse-drawn carriages, and the men and women still wear modest costumes identical to those their ancestors wore three centuries ago.

The fact that the cookery of the Pennsylvania Dutch has become well known to many Americans is due largely to a decision taken by a meeting of Menonite religious leaders that was held in the mid-1860s. The American Civil War was drawing to a close and many hungry and tired soldiers were returning home and the elders of several communities decided to open small inns and restaurants in order to give these weary travelers a place to eat and sleep.

Such inns and restaurants continue to exist, especially in the area of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. It continues to amaze most Americans that these deeply religious people operate these places not out of a profit motive but out of one related to hospitality. Although none of these inns are luxurious, all are surprisingly comfortable, remarkably clean and amazingly inexpensive.

Most people concur that the food of the region is at its best during the months of winter. Pennsylvania winters are especially cold, with temperatures often falling to as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius and with as many as two meters of snow on the ground. Starting on January 1, with the celebration of the New Year, and until the middle of March, nearly every home and restaurant will offer almost identical menus. "Potpies", deep chicken or veal pies in large casserole dishes are favorite offerings as are "shnitz and knepp", dried apples and dumplings that have been cooked together with ham. Served buffet style, every table will also be set with a variety of hot vegetables and cold salads (cole slaw is a favorite), no fewer than two types of freshly baked rolls and at least one fruit pie or cake.

For a selection of traditional Pennsylvania recipes, click here.

© Daniel Rogov