Wine may be the drink of connoisseurs, but rum, which has long been associated with pirates, soldiers of fortune and other adventurers is the drink of romantics. The English pirate known as Blackbeard is said to have consumed two liters of rum every day; the French pirate Jean Lafite wrote in his memoirs that "no amount of gold or silver could ever give me the pleasure of a single glass of hot rum consumed in the quiet of my cabin". And, if one believes the books of Robert Louis Stevenson or the films starring Errol Flynn, pirates even passed a good deal of their time singings songs about rum.

Until 1956 every British soldier was given a daily portion of rum during the winter months and until 1976 members of the French Foreign Legion were issued two liters of rum every week. Rum is also the basis for the drink sailors in the British Royal Navy know as "grog". The name of the drink derived from the nickname of Admiral Edward Vernon who was known as "Old Grog" be- cause he wore a coat made out of a known as grogram, a coarse fabric woven from silk and wool. Because the admiral believed that rum would prevent the disease of scurvy, he insisted that all of his sailors drink a daily of dose of rum and water. Even though this drink did nothing at all to prevent scurvy, it surely made life aboard ship far more pleasant. (It was only at the end of the 18th century that the British realized that citrus fruits were necessary to prevent scurvy and in 1795 the admirals of the navy decreed that lime or lemon juice should be mixed with the daily rum ration).

Rum is made by crushing sugar cane between heavy rollers. The juice from the cane is then concentrated into a syrup by boiling and then most of the sugar is extracted from the syrup. The residue that remains, molasses, is then fermented and distilled, thus producing rum. Colorless when it emerges from the distilling apparatus, the rum only acquires a pale amber color after lengthy aging in oak casks. The care that goes into this aging process determines the fineness of the rum, and some old rums are as highly valued as the finest wines. The color of ordinary rums, alas, is achieved by the addition of artificial caramel coloring.

Although rum can be made anywhere where sugar is grown, the rums of the Caribbean Islands are generally considered the finest in the world. Rum-making began there in the 16th century, when the Spanish colonized the islands and now, the larger islands all produce their own rums, each with its distinct character. There are two main kinds of rum - light and heavy-bodied. The dryer, light- bodied rums are best suited for making cocktails and come from Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. The dark, heavier flavored rums of Jamaica, Haiti and Barbadoes are best used in cooking and in making the hot rum drinks that are most enjoyed during the winter months.

One of the most charming ways to drink rum is to visit the French island of Martinique. Order a rum punch and the barman will place in front of you several slices of lime, a small bottle of sugar syrup, an entire bottle of rum, an earthenware jug with cold water and a second earthenware jug with ice cubes. He will then leave you so that you can mix your drink yourself. If you use the classic formula - "one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong and four of weak" - you'll do fine. Lime is the sour, the syrup is the sweet, rum is the strong and the water that dilutes it is the weak. The use of ice cubes is optional.

Among the most popular modern rum-based cocktails is the daiquiri. To make an almost foolproof version of this drink, combine 4 teaspoons of fresh lime juice or lemon juice with 1 tea- spoon of confectioners' sugar in a cocktail mixing glass. Stir well to dissolve the sugar and then add 6 tablespoons of light rum, 1 teaspoon of Cointreau, 1 egg white and 3 or 4 ice cubes. Place a shaker on top of the mixing glass, shake vigorous- ly and then strain the drink into a cocktail glass.

To make the cocktail known as a frozen daiquiri try the recipe of New York City's Plaza Hotel. Combine 6 tablespoons of light rum, 4 tablespoons of fresh lime or lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of confectioners' sugar, 1 teaspoon of Cointreau and 6 tablespoons of crushed ice in an electric blender and blend for 15 - 20 seconds at a medium speed. Pour the contents (without straining) into a large wineglass and serve with a short straw.

To make a peach daiquiri, try the recipe of the barman at the Montego Beach Hotel in Jamaica. Combine - peeled peach, 3 table- spoons of light rum, 1 tablespoon of fresh lime or lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of confectioners' sugar and a cup of crushed ice in a blender and blend at a medium speed for 10 seconds. Pour the con- tents (without straining) into a large wineglass and serve with a short straw.

© Daniel Rogov