Located in the Tuscan Hills, about 120 kilometers south-east of Florence, Montepulciano is a charming little village. Before we discuss these wines, however, let's get one thing straight - the wines of Montepulciano are made largely of Sangiovese grapes to which, depending on individual producers, you might find small amounts of Canaiolo, Trebbiano, or Malvasia added to the blend. On the other hand, wines made from Montepulciano grapes come not from Tuscany but primarily from the Abruzzi region with some also grown in Molise and Apulia. That being said, and to add to whatever confusion has spread over the last century, the residents of Tuscan Montepulciano tend to refer to Sangiovese grapes as Prugnolo Gentile.

Fortunately for those who reside in Montepulciano their identity crisis is somewhat softened because their wines have such a good reputation. In 1549, for example, Pope Paul III is said to have called the wines of Montepulciano "perfect". Fuller bodied than Chianti but very different in style because they lack the length and sweet finish of fine Chianti, these wines may not be quite "perfect" but at their best they offer great pleasures, and Montepulciano is one of the four DOCG wines of Tuscany.

The wines fall into three broad categories - Rosso, Vino Nobile, and Vino Nobile Reserva and, as a recent tasting at VinItaly revealed, many of the most recent releases are well worth trying. Following are my notes from that tasting. As always, my scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. Wines rated 96 - 100 are those I consider truly great and those that earn 90 - 95 are exceptional in every way. Wines with scores of 85 - 89 are excellent and highly recommended; those with scores between 80 - 84 are recommended; wines earning 70 - 79 are average but at least somewhat faulted; and those earning under 70 points are not recommended. Within each category wines are listed in the order of high low scores.

Rosso di Montepulciano

Poggio Alma Sala, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000: Possibly the very best Rosso of the year! Deep ruby towards royal purple in color, this medium to full bodied wine is rich in aromas and flavors of wild berries, minerals and licorice as well as pleasant earthy-herbal flavors that come in nicely at the finish. Plenty of tannins, good acidity and excellent balance make this a candidate for short-term aging. Enjoyable now but better from 2003 - 2005. Score 88+.

Valdipiatta, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2001: Deep purple, towards black in color, this medium to full bodied wine offers up plenty of red fruits along with generous influences of the small oak casks in which it was aged. Well bodied and with smooth tannins and with a long finish, the wine is drinking nicely now but should cellar well until 2004. Score 88.

Avignonesi, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2001: Deep garnet red, this medium bodied wine shows good balance between fruits, spices, and soft tannins. Look for red cherry, plum and candied fruits here as well as an appealingly spicy finish. Drink now or for another year. Score 87+.

V. Innocenti, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000:Medium bodied and moderately tannic, this deep cherry red towards purple wine has generous currant, blackberry and earthy flavors, all with a long finish that leaves an appealing violet scent and aroma. Drink now - 2004. Score 87.

Triacca, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000: Simultaneously elegant and country-style, this medium bodied wine offers up good black fruits, minerals and herbal aromas and flavors, all well balanced and with smooth tannins. Drink now or until 2004. Score 87.

Carpineto, Roso di Montepulciano, 2000: Plenty of black fruit here as well as delicious chocolate and coffee aromas and flavors. Ruby towards dark purple in color, this medium bodied wine has silky smooth tannins and just the right level of acidity. Drink now - 2004. Score 86.

Fulcino, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2001: Medium bodied and with almost perfumed fruit aromas and flavors and plenty of still solid tannins, but with good balance, this deep purple wine is drinking nicely now but will be even better between 2003 - 2004. Score 86.

La Braccesca, Sabazio, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000: Deep garnet in color, this wine calls to mind licorice and black fruits. Plenty of tannins and acids here to balance off the almost aggressive fruit. Drink now - 2003. Score 86.

Fattoria del Cerro, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000: Dark ruby with blackish tints, this light to medium bodied wine offers up more chocolate, tobacco and spicy aromas and flavors than fruits in its flavors and aromas. Still somewhat closed and with the somewhat questionable potential of opening in the future. Score 85.

Il Conventino, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000: Bright ruby towards garnet in color, but with fruits that are a bit too muted and a not-always welcome coarseness, this Rosso will remind some more of a liqueur than a wine. Drink now. Score 84.

Fattoria di Graciano, Rosso di Montepulciano, 2000: Deep red with orange reflections, this medium bodied wine has generous black fruits, ample smooth tannins and good balance. Look as well for hints of chocolate and herbs on the finish. Drink now - 2003. Score 86.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Angehelini Trerose, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Full bodied and powerful, with still biting tannins, but with the kind of balance and structure that bodes very well for the future. Give this one a few years and then look for dried fruits and leather (traditional to Trerose) as well as a long finish in which you will find herbal-earthy overlays. Heavy enough to match with wild boar or pheasant dishes, the wine promises elegance. Drink 2004 - 2008. Score 92.

Poliziano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Dark ruby, with hints of black and purple, this medium to full bodied wine offers concentrated flavors of dark fruits and sour white cherries, all offset nicely by a marked but not offensive feel of the oak. With distinctly spicy flavors that develop on the long finish, this rich, well balanced wine has flavors that linger long and comfortably. Drink now - 2005 or longer. Score 91+.

La Carliana, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium to full bodied, rich, well balanced and firm, this dark garnet wine has a temptingly spicy red-fruit core that is nicely balanced by just the right hints of sweet oak and smooth tannins. Drink now - 2004. Score 90.

Dei, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this deep ruby red wine has intensive aromas and flavors of red fruits, chocolate and spices. Rich and elegant, well balanced and with flavors that linger beautifully on the palate, developing into a nutty-oak sensation, the wine is approachable now but will be at its best from 2004 - 2008. Score 90.

Fattoria del Cerro, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 2000: Deep almost opaque royal purple, this full bodied and still very tannic wine promises to show flavors and aromas of cherries, red plums, leather and herbs as it opens with time. Intense and powerful, the wine needs time to open but promises to be well worth waiting for. Drink starting in 2004 - 2005. Score 89+.

Conttucci, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium bodied, this bright ruby towards garnet wine offers up abundant red fruits and those complemented nicely by smoky-vanilla oak flavors and aromas. Generous and with flavors that linger nicely, the wine is drinking nicely now but will cellar well until about 2006. Score 89.

Tenuta di Gracciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Depending on how you hold this wine to the light you might describe it as orange, garnet or blackish. That might make for an interesting debate among physicists but to wine lovers the important factors are that this intense, medium to full bodied wine has fascinating aromas and flavors of black fruits, cedar wood and anise, as well as plenty of influence of the oak barrels in which it aged. Look for chocolate and leather flavors as the wine develops on the palate and then a long herbal, chocolate finish. Not for long term storage but delicious drinking now - 2004. Score 89.

Fattoria di Palazzo Vecchio, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Garnet towards royal purple, and with orange reflections, this medium to full bodied wine has an ample array of flavors and aromas that include black cherries, plums, Mediterranean herbs and minerals. With firm tannins that are already becoming integrated, this well balanced wine has a long aftertaste and although drinking well now will cellar nicely until 2005 or longer. Score 89.

Avignonese, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium to full bodied and with somewhat more backbone than one usually anticipates in Vino Nobile, but that is fine, for with silky smooth tannins and delicate but rich flavors and aromas of plums and black cherries, all marrying comfortably with generous hints of spices and Mediterranean herbs, this proves to be an almost decadent wine, opening beautifully on the palate and with a lingering finish. Score 88+. (Tasted 13 Apr 2002)

I Cipressi, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Ruby towards garnet red, this medium bodied wine has plenty of backbone. A tempting array of red fruits is set off nicely by generous spicy touches and just the right note of smoky oak. Look for a long finish here. Drinking well now, but the wine should hold nicely for another 2 - 3 years. Score 88+.

V. Innocenti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1998: Deep red towards purple, this medium bodied Vino Nobile has appealing red fruit, tea and mineral flavors and aromas as well as a generous vanilla overlay from the oak casks in which it aged. Drinking well now but the wine will be even better from 2003 on. Score 88.

Podere San Giovani, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1998: Medium to full bodied, with good hints of sweet oak and plenty of red fruits and raisins as well as a long finish on which spice and leather can be felt, this complex and somewhat exotic, mouthfilling wine has flavors that linger beautifully. Drink now - 2004. Score 88.

Poggio alla Sala, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium bodied, with smooth and already well integrated tannins, and flavors and aromas that include dark fruits, leather and cedar wood. Somewhat in the country-style, the wine will drink nicely now or in the next 3 - 4 years. Score 87.

Salcheto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 2000: Ruby towards garnet in color, with lots of black and red fruit on a medium bodied frame and with smooth tannins and appealing herbal and earthy overtones. Well balanced, the wine is drinking nicely now but should hold comfortably until 2004.
Score 87.

Villa S. Anna, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Full bodied and with perhaps too firm tannins, but with appealing ripe red fruits and smoky cedar and chocolate notes. Give this one until 2003 to start drinking. Score 86.

Carreto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium bodied, with good balance between acidity, fruits and wood, this ruby towards purple wine is packed with red fruits and minerals. A bit lean on the finish. Score 85.

Fattoria di Pateria, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Ruby red, this medium bodied wine is crisply refreshing and has good red fruits. Faulted because the wine lacks depth and fades rather quickly on the palate. Score 85.

Val di Piatta, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Garnet red in color, this medium bodied wine is generous in its black cherry, vanilla and earthy aromas and flavors but finishes with somewhat of an exaggerated mineral note. Drink now - 2004. Score 85.

Tenuta S. Agnese, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Pale ruby towards red, with light fruity flavors and a medium body. Flawed because the wine is too coarse and has an aroma at the end that reminds too strongly of damp cardboard. Score 82.

Gavioli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Deep garnet red, this medium bodied and moderately tannic wine has an interesting (if not somewhat unusual) combination of tomato, earthy and mineral aromas and flavors. Dry and crisp but with a somewhat short finish, this will be a wine that you either love or hate. Drink now - 2004. Score 86.

Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: If ever a wine could be called "brooding", this is that wine. Full bodied, with still very firm tannins and now revealing primarily mineral and leather aromas and flavors, but with excellent structure and balance, this is one you'll have to wait for. When it does open, look for solid black fruits, sweet oak accents and tannins that will become better integrated over time. Best drinking 2004 - 2007. Score 89.

Antichi Benefizi, Vnio Nobile di Montepulciano, 1998: Dark ruby in color, with generous vanilla aromas and notes of sweet oak, this full bodied wine has still firm tannins that need to open. Look for black, almost sweet fruits, minerals and a spicy finish. Approachable now but best in another year or two. Score 87.

Corte alle Flora, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1999: Medium to full bodied, this deep ruby towards garnet wine has firm but well integrated tannins and plenty of spices overlaying red fruit and spicy flavors and aromas. Pleasant if not somewhat short. Score 85.

Fattoria Pallazo Vecchio, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 1998: Plenty of red fruits, refreshing acidity and a clean rustic-style come together to make this an appealing if not somewhat one dimensional wine. Score 85.

Vino Nobile di Montepulcianoa Riserva

Avignonese, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Riserva, 1998: Once again, a 1998 wine outshines those of the "glorious" 1997's. Medium toward full bodied, with a complex nose and flavors of wild berries, red currants and cherries, with pleasing underlying d herbaceousness, this is a wine to nurse, watching as it opens in the glas and on the palate. Long, delicious and sensual. Drink now if you must but the wine will be at its best only between 2004 - 2007. Score 94. (Tasted 13 Apr 2002)

Carpineto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1998: Dark royal purple, this medium to full bodied wine has appealing flavors and aromas of black cherries, red plums, and herbs, all with a generous touch of smoky oak. Smooth tannins, good balance and a long, long finish. The wine needs cellaring. Best 2004 - 2008. Score 91.

Carpineto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1998: Full bodied and with plenty of smooth, well integrated tannins, this deep royal purple wine offers up an abundance of tempting black fruit, sweet spice and cigar box aromas and flavors all on a well structured and well balanced frame. Definitively marked by plenty of sweet oak, this will be a wine most favored by those who consider California at the forefront of the wine world. Drinking well now but the wine should cellar nicely until 2004 - 2006. Score 90.

Fassati, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1998: So dark in color that you might mistake it for a wine from Cahors. Deep, rich and full bodied, with plenty of dark fruit and chocolate and with plenty of firm tannins, this generous wine has delicious after-flavors of leather and cedar wood. Drinking well now but the wine will be even better from 2004 - 2006. Score 90.

Romeo, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1998: Deep orange to brick red, this full bodied wine has an almost decadent array of black fruit, herbal, earthy and leathery flavors and aromas, all of which come together beautifully with firm but well integrated tannins. A wine that opens nicely in the glass and on the palate. Drink now - 2004. Score 88.

Cassanova, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1999: As we have come to know from this winery, a medium bodied, garnet-red and delicious wine. Good black fruits here as well as chocolate, leather and coffee aromas and flavors, all with generous spices and a long finish. Drinking well now but best between 2003 - 2005. Score 87.

Canneto, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1998: A positive surprise from a generally not overly exciting winery. Medium to full bodied, with smooth tannins, this violet towards black wine is generous in its black fruit and herbal flavors and aromas. Good balance between wood, tannins and fruit and a moderate length all come together nicely. Drink now or another year or two. Score 87.

Il Conventina, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 1998: Medium bodied and with good red fruits and plenty of tannins but an unwanted hint of bitterness that sneaks in and then lingers. Drink now - 2004. Score 86.

Fattoria del Cerri, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, 19998: Deep ruby towards purple, this medium bodied wine disappoints by having low levels of tannins and acids, only bare hints of fruits and too much of the feeling of drinking heavily peppered coca cola. One dimensional and without length, the wine should be consumed in the near future. Score 80.

© Daniel Rogov