Not too long ago, a reader asked me to compare the Port Wines of 1945 and 1963. Be there no question but that both of these years were magnificent for Port. Also be there no question but that very few people writing about or even making wines could do horizontal tastings of the two years, such a tasting involving (a) spending an absolute fortune and (b) collecting wines many of which are so rare now that involving them in a “mere tasting” and not drinking would be an out-and-out offense against the gods. Despite that, the comparison was not difficult to make and following are notes of wines from both of these superb vintage years, some of the notes made as recently as a year ago, others as long as five, six or seven years ago. I make no apologies. For wines this great, no apologies need ever be made!

Taylor Fladgate, Vintage Port, 1945: If I were not such a greedy s.o.b., I’d put aside the two bottles I have left of this wine for my great-great-great grandchildren, but future generations be damned, for I intend to drink one of those bottles a decade from now and another in 2020, hopefully beating my date with the grim reaper! Whatever, at this stage this full bodied, remarkably tannic but amazingly well balanced wine is now drinking superbly, its intense red grape, almond and chocolate flavors and aromas interplaying beautifully with hints of eucalyptus, espresso coffee, dried cranberries and tobacco that rise and fall, almost like the tides to enchant at every moment the wine sits on the palate. More than that, a long, long finish in which you will do well to sit back quietly and marvel at the flavors that continue to develop long after the wine has been swallowed. Drink this one on its own now – 2200. (No, I am not exaggerating). Any food match will only harm it! Score 99. (Most recently tasted 24 Jun 2000)

Niepoort, Vintage Port, 1945: Taste this one blind and you might swear that you were drinking a vintage Port that was merely twenty or thirty years old. Wild berry flavors dominate here but those complemented very nicely by pepper, chocolate and cherry aromas and flavors, perhaps even a hint of dried cranberries, all on a light background of anise (or is it eucalyptus?). Medium bodied and without the heavy tannins that typify the 1945 vintage but so well balanced that you can count on drinking this one now or in the next decade or two. Score 99. (Most recently tasted 7 Jan 1996)

Croft, Vintage Port, 1945: Full bodied, deep ruby towards black with a garnet rim and still remarkably young, with rich dark fruit, bitter-sweet chocolate and coffee-cigar leaf flavors and aromas, this rich and delicious wine goes on and on, not only in the bottle but on the palate. Drink now or in the next half century! Score 98. (Most recently tasted 2 Jul 1997)

Dow, Vintage Port, 1945: Full bodied, deep ruby towards garnet and with youthful orange reflections, this intensely sweet but marvelously well balanced wine offers up generous mouthful of wild berry, red cherry and dried fruit flavors and aromas, all with a generous hint of milk chocolate that comes in on the very long finish. Drinking beautifully now but don’t count on this one for very long further development (no shame at all after 55 years!). Drink now – 2003. Score 97. (Most recently tasted 22 Jan 2001)

Graham, Vintage Port, 1945: Not the very best Vintage Port of 1945, but one that I have especially enjoyed on a personal basis, largely because of memories of the young woman with whom I first sipped the wine! Putting my personal bias behind, however, not being “the very best” of 1945 is no sin whatever, for this still young, full bodied and intense wine now shows that extraordinary combination of being simultaneously muscular and elegant. The dominating fruits here are black plums, but over that you will find delicate intertwining layers of chocolate, cedar wood, smoke and black cherries, all on a still firmly tannic base. No fear though, for once the wine opens in the glass the balance breaks through to reveal a wine that is remarkably gentle and elegant. Drink now or in the next twenty years. Score 96. (Most recently tasted 15 Mar 1995).

Fonseca, Vintage Port, 1945: Full bodied and still firmly tannic but showing power and elegance, this bottomless, unabashedly sweet wine shows abundant black fruits, raisins and coffee flavors and aromas all on a delicious background of cigar leaf and cedar wood. Needs time in the glass or decanter, but once opened the wine drinks beautifully. Drink now – 2010. Score 93. (Most recently tasted 15 Mar 1995)

Warre, Vintage Port, 1945: Well past its peak and fading rapidly now and showing only vague hints of its once deep cranberry-black cherry-plum nose. If you have any on hand, drink up now. No longer scoreable. (Most recently tasted 12 Apr 1998)

Quinta do Noval Nacional, 1963: When I first tasted this wine, in 1977 I wrote in superlatives but suggested that the wine would not be ready to drink until 1990. When I tasted it again in 1990, I said that the wine would be ready in 2000. It is now 2002 and even though the wine is finally drinking well, it has a long, long future still ahead of it. Deep ruby towards black, dense and full bodied and still showing powerful tannins, but now opening to reveal its extraordinary depth, length and balance you will find deep black fruit, grape, tobacco, chocolate and espresso coffee all vying for your attention as they play on the palate. Perhaps the perfect Port, and what gives it a very, very special touch indeed are very appealing earthy, gamey flavors and aromas that creep quietly in on the end, enchanting both nostrils and palate. A treasure in every way. Drink now well until the middle of the 21st century. Score 100. (Most recently tasted but not blind 19 Jun 2002)

Fonseca, Vintage Port, 1963: I never try to hide my bias for the Vintage Ports of Fonseca and could not hide my feelings for this no matter how hard I tried for this is one of Fonseca’s very, very best ever! Full bodied and tannic but combining power and elegance in ways that amaze, this extraordinarily well balanced wine opens on the palate to reveal wild berry, red plum and earthy aromas and flavors, all of which yield nicely on the long finish to coffee, dark chocolate and an enchanting hint of mint. Drinking beautifully now but the wine will continue to cellar well until the middle of the 21st century. Score 99. (Most recently tasted but not blind 19 Sep 2002)

Graham, Vintage Port, 1963: Full bodied, this deep ruby towards royal purple wine is now showing black fruits, chocolate and tobacco flavors all with an overlay of jam-like raspberries. Long and elegant, the wine is drinking beautifully now but do not anticipate holding it past 2003 - 2004. Score 95. (Most recently tasted 1 May 1997)

Taylor Fladgate, Vintage Port, 1963: Full bodied, powerful and concentrated but with excellent balance and structure, this dark royal purple wine now shows exquisite black cherry, plum and espresso coffee flavors and aromas on the mid-palate, those yielding nicely on the long finish to dark chocolate and an appealing hint of earthiness. Well balanced and with tannins that have finally softened the wine is drinking nicely now and should continue to cellar well until 2008 – 2010. Score 95. (Most recently tasted 30 Aug 1998)

Sandeman, Vintage Port, 1963: Still remarkably young, in fact so young you will swear you are drinking a 1985 Port, but don’t let that hold you back because this full bodied wine has yet to reveal its full charms. Drink now and you fill find well integrated tannins on a full body and aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries and red plums on a light chocolate background. Give this one another decade though and it will begin to show its earthy-herbal character and that will add even greater depth to it. Drink now – 2025 or longer. Score 95. (Most recently tasted 27 Jun 1999).

© Daniel Rogov