Rogov's Ramblings
Pot-Pourri
Readers Requests - Part III

Readers requests for recipes continue to pour in both on the Forum and by email. Frankly, I could not be more delighted, for re-reading or hunting for and then testing new recipes is an activity beyond delight. Those who wish to see earlier requests may find them at:

Pot Pourri 1 and Pot Pourri II

Roast Quails with Cherry Sauce
A recipe by Chef Shalom Kadosh


4 quails, about 300 gr each
2 cups dry red wine
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
3 Tbsp. brown sugar
1 stick cinnamon
2 whole cloves
200 ml. chicken stock or veal stock
1 - 2 Tbsp. cherry liqueur
400 gr. red cherries, pitted
40 gr. butter
1 sweet apple, quartered
about 2 Tbsp. olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In stainless steel pot combine the wine, vinegar, sugar, cinnamon and cloves. Bring to a boil, lower the flame and reduce liquids to about 1/4 their original quantity. Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves, add the chicken stock, cherry liqueur, and cherries. Cook over a medium flame until the cherries start to soften but do not lose their shape (about 10 minutes). Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Add the butter, shake the pot gently but do not mix so that the butter will integrate itself into the sauce.

Season the quails with salt and pepper (if the quails have undergone koshering, do not salt) and into the cavity of each bird place one of the apple quarters. Tie with cooking thread.

In a heavy skillet heat the olive oil and in this brown the quails on all sides. Transfer the quails to a baking pan and place in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius. Bake for 10 - 12 minutes, from time to time basting with the fat that has dripped to the bottom of the pan. To test for doneness, insert a toothpick into the thigh of one of the birds. When the juices run clear, the birds are ready.

To serve place a single bird on each of four serving plates and over the birds spoon the cherry sauce.
Ideal served with cooked haricot or Thai green beans. (Serves 4).

Grilled Quails
A Egyptian dish, especially popular in Cairo

2 large onions, chopped
1 cup each orange juice and red wine vinegar
1 cup each lemon juice and chicken stock
1 cup coriander, chopped
black pepper to taste
16 - 20 quails, cleaned and halved (can substitute young pigeons)
fresh chervil or parsley, very finely chopped,
lemon quarters for serving

Mix together the onion, orange juice, vinegar, lemon juice, chicken stock, coriander and black pepper to taste and pour this mixture over the quail halves, tossing gently. Marinate, refrigerated for 18 - 24 hours, turning the quail halves occasionally.

Remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before ready to cook and place the birds on an oiled grill over glowing charcoals. Cook until the birds are done (about 8 minutes per side), basting often with the reserved marinade. Just before serving, sprinkle the birds with the chervil or parsley. Serve hot, ideally with buttered fettuccini. (Serves 6 - 8).

Roast Quails in Bacon
A Lebanese recipe from the days when Beirut was considered "the Paris of the Middle-East"

8 grape leaves
8 quails, trussed
1/2 cup chicken fat
salt and thyme to taste
16 thin slices bacon
about 2 cups beef or poultry stock
2 Tbsp. dry white wine

Put the vine leaves in a large amount of lightly salted water. Slowly bring to a boil and let boil gently for 2 - 3 minutes. Quickly plunge the leaves into cold water and then let the water drip off. Lay the leaves flat on a board, outer side down.

Rub the quails well with the fat and then sprinkle with salt and thyme. Over each quail lay a grape leaf and then around each breast wrap two slices of the bacon. Tie in place with kitchen string and place in an ovenproof casserole.

To the casserole add the remaining chicken fat, the stock and the wine and bake, uncovered, in a medium oven for 30 minutes adding additional stock if necessary to keep the pan from becoming dry. To serve remove the string and pour over the pan juices. Serve hot. (Serves 4).

Roast Smoked Quails on Salt
A recipe by Chef Ofer Gal


8 quails
olive oil as required
1 - 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
375 ml. balsamic vinegar
4 Tbsp. honey
2 kilo Jerusalem artichokes, peeled
head of fresh garlic, separated into individual cloves, each peeled
1 small bunch of thyme, chopped
pinch of sugar
1 kilo tomatoes, peeled, quartered and seeded
coarse salt as required
salt, and freshly ground white pepper


Salt the quails, using about 10 gr. of coarse salt to each kilo of quail (if the quails have been koshered, do not salt). Let stand, covered in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Rub the quails very generously with olive oil and let stand in the refrigerator another 24 hours. Brush the quails with half of the balsamic vinegar and half of the honey. Chop one sprig of the rosemary and distribute this in the cavities of the birds. Let stand again in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

Using a cold smoking device, smoke the birds for 1 hour. Remove the birds from the smoker and tie them for roasting in the oven.

Place the Jerusalem artichokes in an aluminum baking tin, over them spread chopped thyme and the garlic. Season to taste with salt and white pepper and a pinch of sugar and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 110 degrees Celsius until soft (about 2 hours).

Place the tomato quarters on a baking pan and bake for 5 minutes in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius. Season with salt, pepper and chopped thyme.

Combine the remaining balsamic vinegar and honey in a small saucepan and heat, stirring regularly, until the mixture is reduced to a thick sauce.

Sprinkle the quails geneorusly with coarse salt and roast for about 15 minutes in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius.

When the quails are cooked to the degree desired, untie them and cut them in half lengthwise with cooking scissors. Place two halves on a plate. On the plates distribute the tomato wedges and on these pile the Jerusalem artichokes. Brush the quails with the sauce and serve at once. (Serves 8).


Pommes de Terre Dauphine
Dauphine Potatoes

For the Pommes de Terre Duchesse:
675 gr. (11/2 lb) potatoes peeled and cut into equal sized pieces
1/2 cup butter
3 egg yolks
pinch or nutmeg
salt and white pepper to taste

For the Choux Pastry:
4 eggs
110 gr. (4 oz.) flour, sifted
1/2 cup butter
1/2 tsp salt

2 eggs beaten well with 1 Tbsp. water and seasoned breadcrumbs as required
oil or fat for deep frying

Prepare the Duchesse potatoes: In a large saucepan with lightly salted water to cover bring the potatoes to a boil. Cover and simmer until the potatoes are quite soft (about 20 minutes). Drain the potatoes and return them to the saucepan, cooking on a very low flame, shaking occasionally, until dry.

Press the potatoes through a sieve and return to the saucepan. Beat in the butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg and continue beating, over a very low flame, until the mixture is light and fluffy. Remove from the flame and beat in theegg yolks. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Make the Choux Pastry: In a saucepan with 1 cup of water heat the salt and butter until the butter is melted. Bring just to a boil and add, all at once, the flour. Beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the saucepan. Over a very low flame beat until the mixture is dry (30 - 45 seconds), remove from the flame and set aide to cool for several minutes.

Beat the eggs lightly and then add these, a little at a time, to the dough, beating well after each addition. Continue beating until the dough is shiny and just falls from the spoon. Use at once.

Weigh the Duchess potatoes. Add 1/3 of their weight of the Choux pastry. Let stand until cold and then divide into small balls of about 40 - 50 grams (1 1/2 oz.) pieces. Shape these into balls, roll first in the beaten egg and then in the breadcrumbs and fry in deep hot oil or fat.

When the potato balls are nicely browned all around, remove them with a slotted spoon, transfer to absorbent toweling to dry and then sprinkle over with salt to taste. Arrange in a heap and serve while still very hot. (Serves 4 - 6)

Fruit Pancakes

For the Pancakes:
1 1/2 cups milk
6 eggs, separated
1 1/2 cups flour
rind of 1/2 lemon, grated
butter as required
1/4 cup sugar
confectioners' sugar as required

For the Fruits:
6 peaches or nectarines
or
5 - 6 medium apples

Place twelve 7 1/2 cm. individual pie tins in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius and let them heat.

Prepare the fruit, peeling, pitting and slicing the large fruits as necessary. Place the fruit in a small ovenproof casserole, sprinkle with sugar, cover and let stand for at least 30 minutes.

In a small mixing bowl combine the milk with the egg yolks and beat just until well blended. Gradually add the flour to the mixture, beating the mixture smooth between each addition. Add just enough flour to form a thick batter, but one that is thin enough to be stirred. Sprinkle the lemon rind over the batter. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and then fold them into the batter.

Remove the pie tins from the oven and rub the insides well with butter. Pour the batter into the tins until each is 3/4 full. and then place the pie tins and fruits in the casserole in the oven. Bake until the tarts are puffed up and golden brown and the fruit liquids are syrupy. Remove from the oven, slide 6 of the tarts into deep dish saucers or onto individual cake plates. Divide the fruits and a little syrup over the top of each tart and sprinkle lightly with lemon juice. Remove the remaining tarts from their pans and invert them over the fruit to form covers. Sprinkle with the confectioners' sugar and serve at once.
(Serves 6).


Lobster Soup With Japanese Mushrooms
A recipe by Jean-Louis Palladin

For the stock:
1 onion, halved
2 carrots, chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
2 leeks, chopped and washed well
1/4 cup chopped shallots
2 Tbsp. butter
2 turnips (about 1/4 kilo), peeled and chopped
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 cup tomato juice
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. dried thyme, crumbled
2 cloves garlic, crushed
6 large sprigs of parsley
4 lobsters, each about 675 grams.

For the clarification:
1 carrot, chopped
1 rib of celery, chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
1 small leek, chopped and washed well
6 large egg whites
115 gr. ground beef

2/3 cup lobster mousse (recipe follows)
200 gr. fresh shitake, sliced thinly (can use dried if soaked for 3 - 4 hours prior to slicing)
2 Tbsp. butter
1/4 cup each carrot, celery, leek and turnip, all julienned, blanched until crisp-tender and drained
24 thin slices of cooked beet, cut in 1" rounds
fresh sprigs of dill for garnish

Make the stock: In a dry heavy skillet (ideally cast-iron), cook the onion halves, cut sides down over a moderate heat for 20 minutes, or until they are burned. In a kettle melt the butter and in this cook the carrots, celery, leeks and shallots over a moderate flame, stirring until the shallots are softened. Add the onion halves, turnips, tomatoes, tomato juice, bay leaf, thyme, garlic and parsley and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes longer.

Add the wine and 4 cups of water, bring the mixture to a boil and add 2 of the lobsters. Cook the lobsters, covered, for 8 minutes and then transfer them with tongs to a plate. Cook the remaining lobsters in the same manner. When the lobsters are cool enough to handle remove the tail meat in 1 piece from each lobster, slice each tail crosswise into 6 pieces and reserve it. Remove the remaining meat from the lobsters and reserve it for another use. Discard the roe and head sac from the body cavities and add all of the lobster shells and 4 more cups of water to the kettle. Bring the mixture to a boil, simmer it for 30 minutes and then ladle the stock through a fine sieve into another kettle.

Clarify the stock: In a food processor blend together the carrot, celery, onion and leek until the mixture is chopped coarsely. In a bowl stir together these vegetables, the egg whites and the beef and whisk the mixture into the stock. Bring the stock to a boil, stirring, and simmer the mixture, undisturbed for 45 minutes. Ladle the stock through a fine sieve into a saucepan, discarding the solids, and season the stock with salt and pepper. Set aside to keep warm.

Divide the lobster mousse among 4 well buttered ramekins and place the ramekins in a small baking dish and add enough hot water to the dish to come up halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the ramekins with a sheet of wax paper and bake the mousses in the middle of an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius until they are just firm and begin to pull away from the sides (about 15 - 20 minutes).

While the mousses are baking, heat the remaining butter in a skillet and in this cook the mushrooms over a moderately low heat, stirring, just until they are tender (6 - 8 minutes). Transfer the mushrooms to paper towels and pat them dry to remove any excess butter.

To serve, invert 1 ramekin of the mouse in the center of each of 4 bowls. Divide the julienned vegetables, mushroom and lobster tail meat, beets and stock among the bowls and garnish each bowl with asprig of dill. (Serves 4).

Lobster Mousse of Jean-Louis Palladin

one lobster, about 675 grams
75 grams of scallops (coquilles Saint Jacques)
1/2 tsp. sea salt
1/2 cup sweet cream
1/2 tsp. chives, snipped
1/2 tsp. lobster roe (optional)

Plunge the lobster into a kettle of boiling water and cook it, covered, for 1 minute. Transfer the lobster with tongs to a large bowl of ice and cold water, let it cool and drain it well. Break off the claws, crack them and remove the meat. Remove the meat from the tail and in a food processor puree the claw and tail meat together with the scallops and salt, scraping down the side. With the motor running add the sweet cream in a stream and blend the mixture for 5 seconds. (Do not over-process or the mixture will separate). Force the mousse through a fine sieve into a bowl and then stir in the chives and lobster roe. Cover and chill the mousse for at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours before using.


Chipolata Sausages on Fried Parsley Sprigs
A Recipe by Chef Paul Bocuse

For the Sausages:
350 gr ground lamb, veal or pork with some fat remaining
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tsp. paprika
3/4 tsp. crushed rosemary
freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 tsp. saltpeter (potassium nitrate) (may be purchased in any drugstore)
1 length of sheep intestines (for sausage casings), about 1 meter long (with no holes in the intestines)

For the Fried Parsley:
about 1/2 kilo fresh parsley sprigs
oil for deep frying

In a mixing bowl combine all of the ingredients for the sausages except the sheep intestines, mixing thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate until ready for use.

Soak the intestines in cold water for about 20 minutes, rinsing occasionally, and then drain well. Make a knot at one end of the intestines. Starting at the open end, slide the casing onto the tube of a funnel (the tube end should be about 2 cm. wide). Force the sausage meat through the funnel with your fingers, releasing the casing as it fills. Do not pack the meat too tightly or the casing may burst when cooking. If any air pockets form, prick with a pin to release the air. When the casing is full, tie off the other end.

After the casing has been filled, hang the sausage to dry for 24 hours at room temperature. Wrap the sausage loosely in wax paper and refrigerate for at least 3 - 4 hours before using.

Just before you are ready to cook the sausages, remove them from the refrigerator and cut into slices about 1 1/2 cm thick. Over a high flame, heat a heavy skillet and in this fry the sausages until they are nicely browned on both sides. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper toweling and set aside to keep warm.

While the sausages are frying, wash the parsley thoroughly and dry very well on paper toweling. In a pot meant for deep frying, heat the oil until it is on the point of smoking. Place the parsley in a basket and plunge into the hot oil. After 30 - 40 seconds remove the parsley and drain again on paper toweling.

To serve, divide the parsley on separate plates and on this place the sausage slices. (Serves 6 as a first course).

Boxty
From the Cashel House in County Galaway, Ireland

6 - 8 large potatoes
3 1/2 cups flour
1 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. salt
about 1 cup buttermilk
bacon fat or goose fat for frying
melted butter and sugar, jam or fruit preserves for garnishes

Boil half the potatoes, unpeeled in salted water until tender. When cool enough to handle, peel the potatoes and mash while hot. Peel the remaining potatoes and place them in a bowl of cold water. Line a strainer with a double thickness of muslin and suspend it over a bowl. Grate the potatoes into the strainer, gather the grated potatoes in the cloth and wring out all of the excess water into the bowl. Let the water stand until clear in color.

Combine the mashed and grated potatoes. Discard the clear water from the bowl and scrape the starchy sediment that has settled into a bowl with the potato mixture. Sift the flour and baking soda and salt and then mix them into the potatoes. Make a well in the center of the potatoes and slowly stir in just enough of the buttermilk to make a thick batter soft enough to drop from a spoon. Beat vigorously until the mixture is bubbly and then let stand for 10 minutes.

Heat a large heavy skillet and then grease it lightly with the fat or the butter. Drop the batter a spoonful at a time to form small pancakes. Fry slowly until the top is dry and bubbling and the underside is golden brown (about 10 minutes). Turn and fry until puffed up and the second side is brown (about 8 minutes longer). Serve hot with one or more of the suggested garnishes. Serves 8.


Spaghettini al limone


500 gr. spaghettini or fettucine
1/3 cup olive oil
juice of 2 lemons
1 hot red chili pepper, seeds removed and chopped finely
1/4 cup each parsley and basil leaves, both chopped finely
salt and white pepper to taste

In a small bowl, mix together the oil, lemon juice, chili pepper, parsley and basil leaves. Season generously with salt, beat and pour the mixture into a large heated serving dish. Cook the pasta in the usual way, drain and transfer it into the dish with the sauce. Toss well and serve at once.

Options: If you like your pasta on the salty side at times, add 1 - 2 Tbsp. capers or 2 finely chopped anchovy fillets in oil. Add the capers or the anchovies just before tossing the pasta.


Penne al limone

600 grams of penne, rigatoni or other short pasta
1 cups sweet cream
1/4 cup butter
grated rind of 2 lemons
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Because of the nature of the sauce used with this dish, it should be made up just before use. While the pasta is boiling combine the cream, butter, lemon peel and cheese in a small saucepan and heat together until the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth throughout. When the pasta is cooked, drain it and turn it onto a serving dish. Pour over the prepared sauce and served immediately.

Blueberry Muffins

2 cups flour, sifted before measuring
3 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
generous pinch of salt
3/4 cup milk, at room temperature
1 egg, well beaten
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 cup blueberries (ideally fresh)

Resift the flour together with the sugar, baking powder, cinnamon and salt.

In a mixing bowl combine the milk and eggs and then mix in the dry ingredients. Add the melted butter and then blend together thoroughly. Fold in the blueberries.

Butter muffin tins and fill each about 2/3 full with batter. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius (400 Fahrenheit) until the muffins are browned and puffy (about 20 - 25 minutes). Serve hot with generous amounts of butter. (Yields about 16 muffins).


Coriander Seasoned Soup of Jerusalem Artichokes
A recipe by chefGolan Aladjem of the Tel Aviv Hilton Hotel


400 gr. Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and sliced
juice of 2 lemons
1 1/2 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 Tbsp. cumin seeds
about 2 Tbsp. of olive oil
5 shallots, peeled and sliced thinly
5 sprigs of fresh coriander
1 1/2 liters chicken stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground white pepper

Place the Jerusalem artichokes in a small bowl, pour over cold water to cover and add the juice of the lemons. Let stand for 5 - 10 minutes

In a dry skillet roast the coriander and cumin seeds over a medium flame and then grind them to a powder in a coffee mill.

Heat the olive oil in a soup pot (about 2 1/2 liters). Add the shallots and saute for 5 minutes and then add the Jerusalem artichokes and saute for 5 minutes longer. Add the coriander sprigs and 3/4 of the ground coriander and cumin seeds and cook for another minute. Add the wine wine and cook until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Add the stock and cook over a low heat until the artichokes are softened. Transfer to a blender and blend to a uniform mixture. Strain, bring to a boil, taste and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Distribute the soup into separate soup bowls, and sprinkle over the remaining spice mixture. (Serves 4 - 6).


Eggplant, Artichokes, and Goat's Cheese
A recipe by chef Nazzia Genedi of Jerusalem's Shonka Restaurant


1 medium sized eggplant, cut into 1 cm. thick slices (use only the 4 central slices)
4 artichokes
about 120 gr. St. Mor or other medium hard goat's cheese, sliced thinly
olive oil as required
2 - 3 cloves garlic, crushed
freshly ground black pepper
coarse salt and balsamic vinegar as required
1 sun dried tomato, chopped

Salt the eggplant slices and place them in a strainer for 30 minutes to drain. Rinse and dry the slices.
In a skillet heat several Tbsp. of olive oil and in this fry the eggplant slices until golden on both sides. With a spatula or slotted spoon transfer the eggplant slices to paper toweling to drain.

Cook the artichokes by plunging them into a large amount of lightly salted boiling water until softened (take care not to overcook). Strain and cool the artichokes under cold water. Remove the leaves and the stems, reserving only the heart. Slice the artichoke hearts into slices about 2 mm. thick and season these with olive oil and crushed garlic.

On each of two serving plates, place 1 slice of eggplant and on those distribute half of the sliced artichoke hearts. On that lay the slices of goat's cheese and over that distribute the remaining slices of artichoke hearts. Cover with another eggplant slice and over all scatter olive oil, balsamic vinegar, coarse salt and the chopped tomato. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Serves 2)


Curry Paste - Thai

hot red chili peppers (3 - 8 depending on how hot you want your food)
1 cube of dried galangal, about 2 cm. cubed or, if preferred 1 2 cm. cube of ginger
2 - 3 sticks fresh lemon grass (or 2 Tbsp. dried lemon grass), sliced
90 gr. shallots or onions
10 - 12 large cloves garlic
1 tsp. shrimp or anchovy paste
1 Tbsp. ground coriander seeds
2 tsp. ground cumin seeds
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric

Place 250 ml. (1 cup) of water in a small bowl and into this crumble the dried red chilli peppers.
If using dried galangal and/or lemon grass, add these to the water as well. Let soak 30 minutes.
(If using fresh galangal or ginger, peel and chop coarsely but do not soak, and if using fresh lemon grass, cut into fine, crossways slices). Peel the shallots and garlic and chop coarsely.

After the soaking transfer all of the ingredients, including the water in which the chilis were soaked to a blender and blend until smooth. The mixture can be made in advance, stored in the refrigerator for up to a week or almost indefinitely in the freezer.

Moussaka

olive oil, as required for frying
4 medium onions, chopped finely
3 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
2 lb. (900 gr) chopped beef
4 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
3 Tbsp.tomato paste
1/4 cup dry red wine
salt, pepper and paprika as required (be generous!)
Tabasco to taste
6 medium eggplants
3 Tbsp. each butter and flour
2 1/2 cups milk
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup riccota or farmers' cheese
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1 1/2 cups breadcrumbs

In 2 - 3 Tbsp. of the olive oil saute the onions and garlic until the onions are translucent. Add the chopped beef and continue to saute until the meat is browned. Add the parsley, tomato paste, wine and seasonings. Stir well and cook, covered, over a low flame, until the liquids are absorbed. Correct the seasoning.

Peel and cut the eggplant in slices about 3/4" (1 1/2 cm) thick. In a heavy skillet with hot oil fry the slices on both sides until lightly browned.

In a saucepan melt the butter and then add the flour, stirring continuously until the flour is absorbed. On the lowest possible flame slowly add the milk, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens. Remove from the flame and add the eggs, riccota and 1/2 cup of the Parmesan cheese. Mix together well.

In a lightly greased casserole spread half the breadcrumbs and on these lay half the eggplant slices. On thesespread the chopped meat mixture and then another 1/4 cup of Parmesan cheese. On the cheese sprinkle the remaining breadcrumbs and over these lay the remaining eggplant slices. Pour over the sauce and bake in a medium oven for about 45 minutes. Sprinkle over with the remaining Parmesan cheese and return to the oven until the cheese has formed a golden brown crust. Serve hot. (Serves 6).

Lamb Chops with Roasted Eggplants and Tchina
A recipe by chef Yaron Kestenbaum

For the lamb:
20 lamb chops, trimmed of fat
100 gr. butter (for kashrut substitute parve margarine)
1 package of fresh thyme

For the eggplant:
3 medium eggplants, preferably with few seeds
½ cup olive oil
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 Tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped

For the tchina:
1 cup of raw tchina
½ cup fresh lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped

For the yoghurt:
1 cup sheep milk yoghurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. mint leaves, chopped
2 Tbsp. olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the olives:
1 cup black olives, pitted and chopped finely
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 bunch roquette leaves, rinsed well

Prepare the eggplant: Over hot charcoals, under a hot grill or over an open flame, roast the eggplants until the skins are charred and the flesh is completely soft. Let cool, peel and place the eggplant flesh in a strainer to drain for 15 minutes. Toss the meat together with the oil, garlic, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate.

Prepare the yoghurt by combining all of the ingredients and refrigerating.

Prepare the tchina by combining all of the ingredients and setting aside to keep cool.

Prepare the lamb by seasoning the chops generously with salt and pepper. Heat a large, heavy stick-proof skillet over a medium-high flame. Add the butter and thyme and when the butter has melted add the chops and cook until the chops are done to taste (5 - 7 minutes for medium). If the skillet is not large enough to hold all of the chops repeat the process several times, making sure there is ample butter and thyme in the pan when the chops are added.

To serve: On the edge of each serving plate spoon 1 Tbsp. each of the eggplant, tchina and olives. Place the chops in the center of the plate. If using the yoghurt, pour a bit around the chops. Around the sides arrange a bit of roquette and sprinkle these over gently with olive oil. (Serves 10).


Rice Pudding

The following recipe is one claimed by Indians, Pakistanis and Thais. A bit of research reveals that the dish "probably" originated in northern India, about 600 years ago.

1 cup glutinous rice, washed and soaked in cold water for 8 hours
2 Tbsp. rosewater
1/2 lb. (115 gr.) creamed coconut (can used tinned)
1/2 cup sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

Drain the water from the rice and transfer the rice to a saucepan with the rosewater, salt and 2 cups of fresh cold water. Bring rapidly to the boil, cover, reduce the flame and simmer until the liquids are absorbed (12 - 15 minutes). Set aside to cool.

In a separate saucepan with 1 1/2 cups of hot water dissolve the creamed coconut over a low flame. Add the sugar and continue stirring until the mixture is even and the sugar has dissolved. To this mixture add the cooled rice, bring again to a boil and cook over a low flame, stirring constantly until the mixture has thickened. Let cool and serve at room temperature or lightly chilled. (Serves 4 - 6)

Turkey in Raspberry Sauce
Adapted from a recipe by Chef Alice Waters

1 turkey, about 3 1/2 - 4 kilos
chestnut stuffing (see recipe immediately following)
1/2 cup butter, softened
salt and pepper to taste
2 large onions, quartered
1 1/4 cups beef stock
1/2 cup Madeira wine or port wine
1/4 cup raspberry jam
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
rind of 1/2 lemon
1 piece orange rind about 2 1/2 x 5 cm.


Prepare the chestnut stuffing (see the following recipe)

Wash the turkey, wipe dry inside and out and fill the body cavity with the chestnut stuffing. Tie the bird, spread with half the butter and season with salt and pepper. Place the bird in a greased roasting pan.

Melt the remaining butter and into this dip a large double piece of muslin cloth and spread this over the bird. Add the onions to the pan and roast in a medium-hot oven for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to medium and roast for 1 1/2 hours longer, basting frequently with the drippings.

In a saucepan simmer together 1/4 cup of the beef stock, the wine, raspberry jam, lemon juice and the lemon and orange rinds until the jam is melted. Remove the cheesecloth from the bird, pour over the raspberry sauce and continue roasting until the bird is cooked (about 1 hour longer) basting frequently. Transfer the turkey to a serving platter and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before carving.

While the turkey is standing, skim off the fat from the liquids in the roasting pan, add the remaining stock and deglaze the pan by heating gently and scraping the bottom and sides well. Strain the gravy into a sauceboat and serve together with the turkey. (Serves 10 - 12).



Chestnut Stuffing
A traditional New England Recipe

1 kilo chestnuts
1/4 cup corn oil
3 cups beef stock
1/4 cup butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 1/4 cups farina
225 gr. seedless raisins
1/2 tsp. each dried thyme and dried marjoram
salt and pepper to taste

With a sharply pointed knife carefully cut slits in the flat side of the chestnuts. In a heavy skillet heat the oil and, over a high flame, cook the chestnuts for 5 - 6 minutes, shaking the skillet constantly. Cool and peel the chestnuts, removing and discarding the shells and inner skins.

Transfer the chestnuts into a saucepan with the beef stock and simmer for 20 minutes.

In a skillet heat the butter and in this saute the onion until translucent. Add the farina and brown lightly. Add the raisins and prunes, season with the thyme, marjoram and salt and pepper to taste. Crumble the chestnuts and mix into the flour mixture. Use the mixture as directed in other recipes. (Yields stuffing for one 4 - 5 kilo turkey or 3 large chickens).


Split Pea Soup

2 cups split peas
the carcass of 1 turkey or two chickens
1 cup celery with leaves, chopped
1/2 cup each carrots and onions, both chopped
1 clove garlic
1 bay leaf
dash or two of Tabasco
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp. each butter and flour
toasted bread croutons for serving

Wash the spit peas thoroughly and let stand in 2- 3 cups of cold water for 1 hour. Drain the peas, reserving the liquids and add enough cold water to make 10 cups. In the liquid put the peas and
turkey carcass. Cook, covered, on a low to medium flame for 3 hours.

Add the celery, carrots, onions, garlic, bay leaf, Tabasco, salt and pepper to taste and simmer, covered, for another 1/2 hour. Remove the carcass, skim off whatever foam is on the surface and strain the soup through a sieve. Chill and then remove the grease.

Reheat the soup. In a small skillet melt the butter and stir in the flour until blended. To this add a small amount of the soup. Cook and stir continuously until this mixture just boils and then stir into the rest of the now reheated soup. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and serve with croutons. (Serves 6 - 8).


Oeufs a la Bourguignonne

2 cups brown beef stock
2 cups Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone or Beaujolais Villages
8 eggs
1 bouquet garni made by thing together 3 sprigs parsley and 1/2 bay leaf
1/4 tsp. dried thyme
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 Tbsp. shallot, minced (can use green onion)
pinch each of cayenne pepper and black pepper
3 1/2 Tbsp. butter, at room temprature
2 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. red currant jelly (can be omited)
8 oval slices of white bread, without crusts, sauteed until golden on both sides
in clarified butter and rub with a cut clove of garlic
2 - 3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely

In a saucepan bring the wine and the stock to a simmer and in this poach the eggs. With a slotted spoon transfer the eggs to a flameproof dish, add a thin film of the poaching liquid and set aside.

After the eggs have been removed from the liquids, add the herbs, garlic, shallot and seasonings to the wine and boil down over a high heat until reduced to 2 cups. Remove the parsley and bay leaf.

Blend the 1 1/2 Tbsp. of the butter and all of the flour to a smooth paste (beurre manie). Off the heat beat the butter into the wine and stock mixture with a wire whip. Boil for 30 seconds and then beat in the optional currant jelly. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Up to this point the dish can be prepared in advance.

About 5 minutes before serving, set the dish (uncovered) over simmering water to reheat the eggs. At the same time reheat the sauce, just to a simmer and then remove from the flame in order to beat in the remaining butter. Toserve, place on egg on each of the toasted croutons and arrange on serving plates (allowing 2 eggs per person). Spoon the hot sauce over, sprinkle over the parsley and serve. (Serves 4 for brunch or a light dinner). About 5 minutes before serving, set the dish (uncovered) over simmering water to reheat the eggs.

Note: In its most traditional form, this dish is garnished with sauteed chicken livers or sauteed mushrooms.

Blanquette de Veau
Adapted from a recipe by Albert and Michel Roux

800 gr. shoulder or flank of veal, cut into 3 cm. cubes (see note at end of recipe)
1 liter chicken stock, ideally home made
2 medium carrots, peeled and washed
1 large onion, peeled, stuck with 2 whole cloves
1 bouquet garni (made by tying together 2 sprigs each parsley and thyme and 1 bay leaf)
24 white onions, peeled and washed
200 gr. small champignon mushrooms, peeled and washed
300 ml. extra heavy whipping cream (double cream)
4 egg yolks
juice of 1/2 lemon
8 slices of bread, cut diagonally from a baguette, about 1 cm. thick
80 gr. clarified butter
salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Place the veal in a casserole, add enough of the chicken stock to cover the meat and season with a little salt. Bring to a boil over a medium heat and then lower the temperature so that the liquids barely simmer. Skim the surface to remove the fat that rises several times and cook gently for 10 minutes.
Add the carrots, large onion and bouquet garni and simmer for 30 minutes longer.

Add the small onions, simmer 30 minutes longer, and then add the mushrooms and cook for 1 hour longer. With a slotted spoon carefully transfer the veal, small onions and mushrooms to a bowl.
Cover with a damp cloth and set aside to keep warm.

Remove the onion stuck with the cloves and the bouquet garni from the casserole and discard them.
Pass the cooking liquids through a conical sieve into a saucepan, set over a high heat and cook until the liquids are reduced by half. Remove from the flame.

In a bowl combine the sweet cream, egg yolks and lemon juice. Beat lightly with a wire whisk and then pour this mixture onto the cooking liquids, whisking constantly. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour this sauce into a saucepan and cook gently for 30- 45 seconds, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula. Be very careful not to let the sauce boil!

Remove the saucepan from the heat and immediately stir in the veal and vegetables. Set aside to keep warm. In a skillet melt the clarified butter and in this fry the bread slices until golden brown on both sides. Drain on absorbent toweling.

To serve, pour the blanquette into a soup tureen and arrange the croutons on top. (Serves 4).

Note: Many of the French feel that the best cut of veal for this dish is the tendron, which comes from the breast. Alas, although this cut is available at all French butchers, there is no exact equivalent in North America or England.


Lamb Stew With Root Vegetables

1/2 kilo each breast and shoulder of lamb or 1 kilo lamb chops
2 Tbsp. bacon fat
18 baby onions
2 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. tomato puree
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 bouquet garni
2 1/2 cups chicken or beef stock
3 cups new potatoes, peeled
2 large tomatoes, peled, seeded and chopped
4 medium carrots, cut in 2 1/2 cm. pieces
2 white turnips, in eighths
1 cup green beans, cut in 2 1/2 cm. lengths
2 cups peas
salt and black pepper to taste

If using breast and shoulder of lamb, cut the meat into 5 cm. pieces. If using chops, leave them with bone intact. In either case sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a heavy flameproof casserole melt the bacon fat and in this brown the meat. Set the meat aside and in the same casserole lightly brown the onions. Remove the onions and set aside and stir in the flour, stirring constantly, over a medium flame until bubbling. Add the tomato puree, garlic, bouquet garni and half the stock. Return the meat to the casserole and bring to a boil. Cover tightly, reduce the flame and simmer gently for 1 hour.

Skim off the fat and add the potatoes, tomatoes and carrots. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the turnips, browned onions and green beans and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Add the peas, cover again and simmer until the meat is tender (about 20 minutes longer).

When the meat and vegetables are fully tender, again skim off the fat, discard the bouquet garni, and serve. (Serves 6 - 8). My suggested wine matches: Zinfandel or Rioja!!!

P.S. You may note that if you were to sprinkle over 3 - 4 Tbsp. of freshly chopped parsley just before serving that this dish has a remarkable resemblance to the Navarin Printanier that the French so adore.
Don't let that confuse you, for as this dish is claimed equally by the Irish and the French, it was also a favorite of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson, both of whom claimed that their own cooks were the first to "invent" the dish.

Apple Pie

Note: Before preparing this ultimately American pie, please read the notes on standard pie crust and on blind baking that follow the recipe.

1/2 cup white sugar
1 Tbsp. corn flour
pinch each of salt and nutmeg
6 cups apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon lemon rind, grated
1 standard pie crust for a covered pie, with the bottom crust baked blind (see following)
sugar and cinnamon or vanilla ice cream for serving

In a small mixing bowl combine the sugar, corn flour, nutmeg and salt. Sprinkle these over the apples. Place the apple slices in layers in the pie shell and dot them with the butter. Sprinkle over with the lemon juice, vanilla and lemon rind. If the apples appear overly dry, sprinkle with 1 - 2 Tbsp. of water.

Cover the pie with a top crust, prick in several places and bake in a very hot oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to medium and bake until the pie is done (from 45 minutes to 1 hour, total cooking time). Remove from the oven and sprinkle over with sugar and cinnamon or serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. May be served hot or cold.

Standard Pie Crust

1 cup flour, sifted before measuring
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup margarine, vegetable fat or other shortening
3 Tbsp. butter

Combine the flour and salt and resift.

Combine the vegetable fat and butter and then cut half of this mixture into the flour, working it in gently with the tips of the fingers until it has a coarse texture. Cut in the remaining fat and butter mixture and continue working with the fingertips until the mixture lies in pea size pieces.

Sprinkle the dough with 21/2 Tbsp. of water and blend the water lightly into the dough. If necessary add just enough water to bind the ingredients. On a lightly floured board roll out the pastry to an 26 centimeter (10") circle and then lift this into a 23 centimeter (9") pie tin which is resting on a baking sheet. Trim the edges, prick the base with a fork and chill.

The above process will yield a crust for a standard 23 centimeter pie. To make a pie that will also be covered, double the quantities. Roll out half of the mixture to fill the pie tin and roll the remaining dough until it is about 26 centimeters in diameter. Lay the second half on a piece of waxed paper and chill before using to close the pie. After the pie has been closed and the edges crimped, remember to cut several slits in the top crust just before baking.


To Blind Bake a Pie Crust

Americans are correct in their belief that the crusts of fruit pies should be baked "blind" before filling. This is a simple process. Simply sprinkle the pie shell lightly with water, cover with wax paper and fill the pie tin with uncooked rice. Bake in a hot oven for 10 minutes. Remove the paper and rice (the rice may be saved and later cooked according to your usual method). Reduce the oven temperature to medium and bake the pie shell for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let cool before filling.


Apple Tarte Balzac
Tarte aux Pommes Balzac

225 gr. flour
4 egg yolks
1/4 tsp. salt
225 gr. sugar
120 gr. butter, softened
1 kilo sweet golden skinned apples, peeled, halved, cored and sliced
juice of 1 lemon
several drops of vanilla extract
Creme Chantilly (sweetened whipped cream), for serving (optional)

Sift the flour onto a board and shape a well in the center. Into the well place the egg yolks, salt and half the sugar and, with the fingertips, mix these until the sugar is dissolved. Add the softened butter and continue working with the fingertips until the mixture attains the consistency of coarse crumbs. Work together with a spatula and, when the dough comes together in a ball, lightly flour the work surface. On this knead the dough lightly, press into a ball, wrap in wax paper and refrigerate for 1 - 2 hours.

In a heavy saucepan with 1 cup of water heat the remaining sugar gently, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil and boil until a golden caramel is obtained. Remove from the flame and let cool for 1 - 2 minutes. Pour the hot caramel into a heavy 8" (20 cm.) shallow ovenproof dish, turning to coat the bottom evenly.

Over the caramel lay the apple slices in overlapping circles to cover the entire bottom. Bake, uncovered, in a medium-hot oven for 20 minutes and then remove from the oven. Allow to cool for 10 minutes.

Roll out the chilled pastry dough to a 23 cm. circle about 1/2 cm. thick. Place this on a baking sheet and chill until firm (about 20 minutes). Place the chilled dough on the apples to cover completely and tuck in the edges. Prick the dough several times with a fork and bake in a medium-hot oven until the crust is golden and the apples tender (about 20 minutes). Let the pie cool until it is just warm to the touch and then place a preheated serving plate over the top and invert the pie. Serve warm or at room temperature. May be served with sweetened whipped cream.

Fruit Cake with Wine
From a recipe by Michel and Albert Roux


This is an "odd" recipe because instead of the traditional Rum or Cognac it relies on fruit wine.
Odd it may be, but delicious it is!!!

2 eggs, at room temperature
130 gr. sugar
100 gr. moist mixed crystallized fruits, diced
80 gr. each raisins, sultanas and glace cherries
450 ml. fruit wine (ideally plum or cherry wine)
340 gr. all purpose flour
10 g. baking powder
30 gr. butter for greasing

Note: You will need 1 23 x 9 cm. loaf tin that is about 7 cm. deep and 6 small brioche molds to prepare this dish.

In a bowl whisk together the eggs and sugar until pale yellow. With a spatula fold in the dry crystallized fruits, raisins, sultanas and cherries. Stir in the fruit wine.

Sift together the flour and baking powder and then with a spatula fold them into the egg and fruit mixture. As soon as thoroughly blended, stop mixing, taking care not to overwork the mixture.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 20 minutes.

Brush the insides of the loaf tin and the brioche molds with the remaining butter. Line the loaf tin with greaseproof paper which should come about 2 cm. above the top of the tin. Pour two-thirds of the cake mixture into the large tin and divide the rest in the small molds. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 240 degrees Celsius until the point of a sharp knife inserted in the center comes out clean (about 50 - 55 minutes for the large cake and 35 - 40 minutes for the smaller ones)

After removing from the oven let the cakes stand in the moulds for 15 minutes and then unmold onto a wire rack. Remove and discard the paper on the larger cake.

The cake should be held for at least 12 hours after cooking for serving, and should be served at room temperature, sliced thinly. Ideally serve with unsalted butter.

Hunters' Chicken with Cherries
The German Version

2 cups sugar
1/2 kilo sweet cherries, pitted (fresh or frozen but do not use tinned)
2 chickens, about 1 1/2 kilos each
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. shallots, chopped
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
1 cup chicken stock, ideally home made
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup tomato paste
2 Tbsp. brandy
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. salt
pinch or two thyme

Dissolve the sugar in 1/2 liter of water. Bring the sugar water to a boil and into this plunge the cherries. Reduce the flame and let simmer gently for 10 - 12 minutes for fresh cherries and 4 - 5 minutes for frozen. Drain and set the cherries aside until ready for further use.

Sprinkle the chickens with the flour. In a large heavy skillet heat together the oil and shallots and in this saute the chicken pieces until golden. Pour over the remaining ingredients and simmer, covered, until the chicken is extremely tender (50 - 60 minutes). About 5 minutes before ready to serve, add the cherries to the skillet, stir and cover again. In Germany this dish is served with spaetzle, in Rome with spaghetti; in Milan with rice; in Genoa with gnocchi. (Serves 6 - 8).

Note: This dish can also be prepared using sweet plums.


Sauce Chasseur
Hunters' Sauce

2 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. shallots, minced
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 Tbsp. Cognac
1 cup Sauce Espagnole (recipe follows immediately)
1/2 cup tomato sauce, ideally home made
1 tsp. parsley, chopped

In a skillet melt the butter and in this saute the shallots until tender. Stir in the mushrooms and continue to saute gently, for 2 - 3 minutes longer.

Add the wine and Cognac and simmer until the quantity has been reduced by half. At this point add the Sauce Espagnole and the tomato sauce and cook for about 5 minutes. Correct the seasoning and add the chopped parsley. Yields about 1 1/2 cups.

Sauce Espagnole

1 Tbsp. butter
1 medium carrot, diced
1 medium onion, diced
inner ribs of 1 celery heart, diced
1/2 bay leaf, crushed
1 sprig thyme
1 Tbsp. bacon, minced
1/2 tsp. Madeira wine
1/4 cup beef drippings
1/4 cup flour
8 black peppercorns
2 large or 3 medium tomatoes, peeled and crushed
1/4 cup parsley, chopped coarsely
4 cups beef stock, ideally home made

In a skillet melt the butter and in this saute the diced vegetables, bay leaf, thyme and bacon until the vegetables are soft. Add the Madeira and mix gently, deglazing the pan.

In a heavy saucepan melt the beef drippings and to this add the vegetable mixture. Cook until the vegetables begin to brown and add the flour. Stir until the flour is well browned. Add the peppercorns, tomatoes and parsley, mixing in well and then add the beef stock. Simmer on a low to moderate flame until the sauce is reduced by about half (about 2 1/2 hours). During the cooking, stir occasionally and skim off the fat as it rises.

After the sauce has been reduced remove from the flame and strain. The finished sauce should be approximately at the consistency of heavy cream. Yields about 3 cups.


Fillets Mignon Duroc

For the steaks:
350 grams small potatoes
6 Tbsp. butter
4 fillet steaks, trimmed and lightly flattened (this dish may also be made with entrecote steaks)
salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 - 2 Tbsp. tarragon, chopped
1 recipe for chasseur sauce (follows immediately)

For the chasseur sauce:
1/4 cup butter
2 cups mushrooms, chopped
salt to taste
2 Tbsp. shallots, chopped finely (can substitute the white parts of spring onions)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup beef or veal stock, ideally home made, boiled down to half
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 tsp. each parsley, chervil and tarragon, all chopped

In a saucepan with lightly salted water boil the potatoes until just tender (20 - 30 minutes). Drain and peel. In a skillet heat 1/4 cup of the butter and in this saute the potatoes, shaking the pan often until the potatoes are nicely browned. Set aside to keep warm.

Season the steaks with salt and pepper. In a clean heavy skillet heat together the olive oil and remaining butter and in this saute the steaks, browning then nicely on both sides. Transfer the steaks to a serving plate and set aside to keep warm.

Prepare the chasseur sauce: In the skillet in which the steaks were sauteed melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the mushrooms. When the mushrooms are nearly cooked season to taste with salt and add the shallots. When the mushrooms are cooked through add the white wine, boil down by half and stir in the beef stock and tomato sauce. Let boil for about 1 minute, remove from the flame, add the remaining butter and herbs and stir well.

To serve, surround the steaks with the potatoes and sprinkle a few tsp. of the sauce over the meat. Sprinkle the meat with the tarragon and serve the remaining sauce separately. (Serves 4).

(Note: This recipe can also be made using veal steaks, fillets mignons or lamb chops).


Lamb in Anchovy Sauce
Abbacchio alla Cacciatora

1 leg or shoulder of lamb
salt and pepper to taste
juice of 1 large lemon
1 clove garlic, halved
1 cup white wine
2 onions, sliced
2 stalks celery, chopped coarsely
1 cup chicken stock
2 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp. anchovy paste
1 tsp. lemon rind, grated
paprika to taste

With a damp cloth wipe the lamb and then rub with salt, pepper, lemon juice and the cut clove of garlic. Place the joint in an very hot oven for 10 minutes and then reduce the oven heat to medium and add the wine, onions and celery. Baste frequently with the pan drippings. After 1 hour add the stock and continue basting. Cook, uncovered, until the lamb is nearly done (about 1 1/2 hours). Ten minutes before the meat is done sprinkle the top with the flour to brown.

Remove the joint to a pre-heated platter and set aside to keep warm. To the drippings add the parsley, anchovy paste and lemon rind and, cooking on top of the stove, heat through. Pour several spoonfuls of the gravy over the joint before carving and serve the remaining gravy in a sauceboat. Serve hot.
(Serves 4 - 6).


Cold Marinated Trout

6 trout, about 375 gr. each, with heads on and cleaned
salt and pepper to taste
flour as required
1 cup olive oil
3 - 5 cloves garlic
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
1 1/2 cups dry red wine
1/2 cup vinegar (ideally white wine vinegar but can use apple vinegar)
2 - 3 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. thyme, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely

Sprinkle the trout inside and out with salt and pepper and then dust them lightly with flour. In a large heavy skillet heat half the oil and in this fry the trout over a medium fame until nicely browned and cooked through. Gently transfer the trout to a shallow casserole dish.

To the skillet add the remaining oil and heat. In this saute the garlic cloves over a medium flame just until they begin to brown. Let cool, add the white and red wine, vinegar, bay leaves, thyme and parsley. Bring to a boil and boil until the liquids are reduced by half. Pour the liquids over the trout, cool and refrigerate, covered, for 1 - 2 days, occasionally spooning the marinade over the fish. Serve well chilled.

Trout with Mediterranean Herbs

2 Tsp. each fresh thyme, marjoram, parsley and tarragon, all chopped
6 trout, about 375 gr. each, with heads and tails intact, well cleaned
1 cup flour
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1 cup milk
1/2 cup butter, melted
lemon wedges for garnish

Mix together the herbs and divide the mixture into 6 equal portions. With each portion fill the cavity of a single fish, distributing the herbs well.

Mix together the flour, salt and pepper. Dip the trout first in the milk and then in the flour, coating well. Grill the trout over hot charcoals or under a hot broiler until golden brown on each side (about 6 minutes on each side). Pour the melted butter over the trout and serve with lemon wedges.

Salmon with Olives
A Spanish recipe

6 trout, about 375 gr. each, filleted
24 green olives,pitted and halved
1 large onion, chopped

salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1/4 cup butter
2 hard boiled eggs, chopped coarsely
amarilla sauce for serving (see following recipe)

Place the fillets in an earthenware casserole and over these spread the olives and onions. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and parsley, pour over the oil and vinegar and distribute the butter in dabs. Bake in anoven that has been preheated to 170 degrees Celsius until the salmon is done to taste (30 - 40 minutes), sprinkle over the hard boiled eggs. Spoon a small amount of the sauce over the fish and pass the remaining sauce separately.


Amarilla Sauce

6 hard boiled eggs, separated
2 Tbsp. Madeira wine
2 Tbsp. olive oil
salt to taste
6 Tbsp. chicken stock, strained through a muslin cloth
1 Tbsp. vinegar
1 Tbsp. each white pepper and mustard powder

Push the egg whites through a fine sieve.

In a mixing bowl combine the egg yolks and Maderia wine, crushing the yolks into the wine. Drop by drop, as you would for mayonnaise, beat the oil into the mixture. Season with salt, add the stock, and stir in the vinegar. Add the pepper and mustard and finally the egg whites. (Yields about 1 1/2 cups).

Ketchup - The Real Thing

Note: Because making home-made ketchup is a time-consuming process, many find that it is best to prepare large amounts at a time. Because most of the ketchup will have to be stored for a relatively long period of time, be absolutely certain that the jars and bottles to be used for storage are perfectly sterilized and well sealed.

3 1/2 kilos ripe tomatoes, unpeeled and chopped
6 medium onions, chopped finely
2 sweet red peppers, halved, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 hot red pepper
2 bay leaves
1 Tablespoon celery, chopped
1 Tablespoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
1 stick cinnamon, about 4 cm. long
1 Tablespoon salt
2 cups apple vinegar or white wine vinegar
1/2 cup each brown sugar and white sugar

In a large saucepan combine the tomatoes, onions, red peppers and garlic cloves and pour over water to cover. Bring to a boil and boil until the vegetables are completely soft (40 - 50 minutes). Strain through a sieve, pressing well with a wooden spoon. Tie the hot pepper, bay leaves, celery, mustard seeds, peppercorns and cinnamon in a muslin sack and place these in the strained liquids. Add the salt and return to the boil. Continue boiling, stirring frequently, until the mixture is reduced to half its original quantity.

Remove from the flame, add the vinegar and brown and white sugar and stir well. Return to the flame, bring to a boil and then reduce the flame so that the ketchup is simmering gently. Continue simmering, stirring occasionally for 15 - 20 minutes or until the sauce is thickened to the desired point. Discard the sack with the spices and, while still hot seal the ketchup in sterile jars or bottles.

Omelettes Agnes Sorel


1/4 cup cooked chicken breast
3 Tbsp. sweet cream
butter as required
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
1 cup veal or chicken stock
8 eggs
16 thin slices of smoked or pickled tongue
salt and pepper to taste

In a food processor, process the chicken until it is completely smooth and then blend together with the cream.

In a skillet melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the mushrooms. Drain the excess liquids and blend together the mushrooms and chicken puree. In a saucepan heat the mixture through, dab the surface with butter and set aside to keep warm.

Boil down the veal stock to 1/2 of its original volume and into this blend 1 - 2 Tbsp. of butter. Keep warm while preparing the omelets.

To prepare the omelets, lightly beat 2 of the eggs in a small bowl with a dinner fork. In a 23 cm. (9 inch) omelet pan melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter, rolling the butter over the bottom and sides of the pan. When the margarine is heated through and bubbling but not yet brown, add the eggs. Agitate the pan forward and backward allowing the eggs to slide as a mass over the pan bottom just until the eggs begin to thicken. Quickly pull the egg mixture from the sides to the center of the pan so that the uncooked portion flows to the side. Continue until the omelet is nearly cooked to taste (30 - 50 seconds).

During the last 10 - 15 seconds of cooking do not stir the mixture which will allow the bottom to brown. As soon as the omelet is ready, spoon over 1/4 of the mushroom mixture. To turn the omelet out, have a hot serving plate ready. Hold the pan in one hand and tip slightly towards the body. With a fork fold over the edge of the omelet nearest the handle and then half roll, half slide the omelet onto the serving plate so that it lands on the plate folded in three, folded side down. Repeat this process until all of the eggs are used, making 4 omelets in all.

To serve, place 4 slices of the tongue around the omelets and over this pour a border of the reduced veal stock. (Serves 4). The ideal wine with this dish is a fine Brut Champagne.


Arroz Negro
Black Rice With Squid


This recipe comes from Penlope Casas excellent "The Foods and Wines of Spain" (Penguin Books 1985, and Random House of Canada, 1982 and Random Alfred A. Knopf, New York). A book indispensable to any lover of Spanish foods!


675 - 750 gr. squid, with tentacles and ink sacs intact
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 pimiento, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 medium tomato, chopped
1 Tbsp. minced parsley
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
a generous pinch of saffron
1/2 dried red chili pepper, seeds removed, crumbled (may use a whole pepper if desired)
1/4 cup dry white wine (ideally a wine similar to the one you will be drinking with the dish)
2 cups short-grain rice
3 3/4 cups fish stock (ideally home made) (can substitute clam juice), boiling hot
1 pimiento, cut in strips

For the garlic sauce:
3 cloves, garlic, crushed
1/2 cup olive oil

Have the fishmonger clean the squid for you, being certain to tell him that you want the tentacles whole and the ink sacs intact. If you chose to do it at home, hold the body of the squid in one hand and the tentacles in the other. Pull out the tentacles and set aside. Peel off the ink sacs (which is silver in color and locatede beneath the tenticles). Cut off all waste material from the tentacles but leave each tentacle in a separate piece. Remove the skin from the body of the squid and pull off the fins. Turn the squid inside out, remove the cartilage and wash the body well under running water. Turn the squid to the outside again and dry on paper towels.

Just before actually preparing the dish, chop the tentacles and cut the squid into 1 cm. wide rings or pieces. In a wide, shallow casserole about 30 cm. across (ideally earthenware), heat the oil and in this saute the onion until it is wilted. Add the squid rings and tentacles and saute for 5 minutes longer. Add the chopped pimiento, garlic, tomato, parsley, salt and pepper to taste, saffron and chili pepper. Cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.

Break the ink sacs into a cup and mix with the wine. Pass this mixture throuh a sieve several times and then set the liquids aside.

Add the rice and boiling hot stock to the casserole and stir in the ink mixture. Season again to taste with salt and pepper, bring to a boil and cook over a medium high heat, uncovered and stirring occasionally until the rice is no longer soupy but some liquid still remains (about 10 minutes). Decorate with the pimiento strips and transfer to an oven that has been preheated to 170 degrees Celsius. Bake uncovered until the liquids are absorbed but the rice is not quite done (about 15 minutes), remove from the oven, cover lightly with aluminum foil and let stand for 10 minutes.

While the rice is resting, make the garlic sauce by placing the crushed garlic in a food processor or blender. Very gradually, with the motor running, pour in the oil.

Serve the rice with a green salad and pass the garlic sauce separately. (Serves 4 - 6).


Irish Soda Bread With Lavender

3 cups all purpose flour
1 cup currants (may substitute seedless raisins)
1/2 cup denamarra sugar or other dark brown sugar
3 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. dried lavender flowers
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. butter
1 3/4 cup buttermilk


In a mixing bowl stir together the flour, currants, sugar, baking powder, lavender and salt. Cut in the butter and then gently stir in the buttermilk. Transfer to a lightly greased glass bowl, drizzle a bit of milk over the top and sprinkle again with a bit of brown sugar. Place in an oven that has been preheted to 190 degrees Celsius until the cake is done (about 50 - 60 minutes. You will know when the bread is truly done when it sounds hollow when tapped with a fingernail)


Lavender Shorbread Cookies

1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup unsifted confectioners sugar
2 tsp. dried lavendar flowers
1 tsp. crushed dried mint (in North America try to find spearmint)
generous pinch of cinnamon
1 cup all purpose flour

Line a 20 cm. square baking pan with aluminum foil and then grease the foil lightly with butter.

In a mixing bowl cream the butter until it is light and fluffy. Stir in the sugar, lavender, mint and cinnamon. Work in the flour and blend with the fingertips until the mixture is crumbly. Press the mixture evenly into the baking dish and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 170 degrees Celsius until lightly golden around the edges. Remove from the oven, lift the baked cake out gently with the aluminum foil and slice into squares with a serrated knife. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to col completely. May be served when still warm or may be stored in a tightly sealed tin. (Yields about 25 cookies).

Rhubarb and Honey Lavender with Creme Fraiche

A dessert I came to know and love on the Island of Corfu, best served in martini glasses. Can also be served with vanilla ice cream.

For the rhubarb:
6 cups rhubarb, cleaned and cut into 1 cm. chunks
the rind of one orange
the juice of one large orange
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup flour

For the topping:
1 cup flour
1 cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups oats, toasted in for 10 minutes in an oven that was preheated to 180 degrees Celsius
1/2 cup pecans, toasted for 10 minutes in an oven that was preheated to 180 degrees Celsius
and then chopped

For the creme fraiche:
About 1 cup of creme fraiche
2 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. lavender flowers

Toss the rhubarb, orange rind, orange juice, sugar and flour together in an bowl, mix well and transfer to a 7 cm. deep baking dish.

Prepare the topping by combining the flour and sugar. Cut the butter into this mixture until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. Stir in the oats and pecans. Spread this mixture evenly over the rhubarb. Bake in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is crisp and golden brown (about 30 - 40 minutes).

While the dessert is cooling a bit, stir together the creme fraiche, honey and lavendar. Serve while still warm, spooning over creme fraiche to taste. (Serves 6).

 

© Daniel Rogov

[ BACK ]

Home | What's New | Tasting Notes | Wine Articles | Wine & Food | Dishes I Adore | Without Alcohol

Mostly for Pros | Issues and Arguements | Travel & Dining | Spirits | Cigars | Ramblings |

The Discssion Forum | The Recipe Index

   Israeli Wining and Dining   

This site has been provided with FREE webspace by Strat's Place
To Return to Strat's Place - Please click on the banner below