There are those moments in life, possibly throwbacks to our primordial days, when we seek out wines so black, so concentrated and so dense that you feel you can cut them with a butter knife and then chew rather than drink them. Don't misunderstand - primordial pleasures can be very rewarding and even civilizing - and so it is with the wines of Clos Mogador. Owned by Rene Barbier and situated in Spain's Priorat region, Mogador produces only one wine and although there is a bit of confusion as to the grapes used, it safe to generalize that there are varying combinations of Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mataro (Mourvedre), and Pinot Noir in the blend.
Let it be clearly understood that Mogador is a wine-maker's wine, that is to say, one clearly reflecting the personality and philosophy of the wine-maker. Largely because of this, the wines of Mogadar are adored by some and shunned by others. I confess that in many blind tastings, I have revealed to myself that I am one of those who adores these wines, for despite their depth, concentration and density, their sometimes high acidity and alcoholic content, these tend to be elegant and often long-lived wines. I have tasted all of the wines of Clos Mogador but until recently had not tasted them vertically. It was only recently that I was given the opportunity to attend a vertical tasting of the wines from 1989 - 2001, and that very rewarding tasting was held in the cellar of the Tel Aviv wine store, Derekh Ha Yain on 18 July 2002.
Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 2001 (Barrel Tasting): With still tight tannins, but with black fruits, vanilla, chocolate, spring flower and light earthy-herbaceous aromas and flavors, this may well prove one of the most exciting wines from Mogador in a decade or more. Full bodied, remarkably deep in color, with complexity and elegance that will only make themselves felt in another five years, this is a wine to watch for and to lust after until it is ready to drink starting in 2006. A candidate for long term cellaring. Tentative Score 94+.
Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 2000 (Advance Tasting): As is traditional, this deep red towards garnet wine is full bodied, intense and powerful but has the kind of concentration, structure and balance that give the wine elegance. You will find black fruits, currants, violet and tar aromas and flavors here, all of which interplay beautifully on the palate and then linger nicely, yielding appealing hints of sweetness on the long finish. Almost as rich as a late-harvest wine, the wine will be at its best from 2005 - 2015 or longer. Score 93.
Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1999: Deep ruby towards purple, this full bodied wine is generous in its flavors of wild berries, red currants, mint and spring flowers. Smooth tannins and with hints of tar and licorice that come in at the end, the firmly structured and well balanced promises to drink beautifully over the next 8 - 10 years. Score 91.
Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1998: As we have come to expect in the wines of the Priorat region of Spain, this one is inky purple in color and, in keeping with the winery's policy a blend of 40% Garnacha, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah and 5 % Mouvedre. Earthy and almost musky when first opened, but those quickly yield to generous black fruits, vanilla, and herbal flavors and aromas, all of which come together in a full bodied, well structured and very well balanced wine. At an earlier tasting one of my colleagues commented that this was "… a wine with one leg in Bordeaux and one in the Rhone valley but its soul most definitely in Spain". Best drinking will be from 2003 - 2012. Score 93.
Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1997: Deep purple towards reddish-black and with orange reflections, this is a wine that needs time to open in the glass. Grenache dominates in the character of this year's wine, but that is no problem because the almost jammy and peppery flavors , succulent sweet tannins and extraordinary concentration are all here to assure your pleasure. After initial sensations of damp earth and a somewhat heavy meaty feel, the wine opens to reveal remarkably concentrated flavors and aromas of black currants, plums, licorice, toasted oak and spices. Concentrated and intense the wine will drink be at its best starting in 2003 - 2004 and will then cellar nicely until 2012 - 2015. Score 92+.

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1996: Purple towards black,with abundant flavors and aromas of strawberry jam, eau de vie of cherries, spices and black pepper, this concentrated and racy wine has plenty of alcohol but the kind of structure that carries it very well indeed. Medium to full bodied, the wine will come into its own in about 2003 and will then cellar nicely for at least a decade longer. Score 90. (Not included in the vertical tasting - most recent tasting 27 Aug 2001)

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1995: Almost impenetrable purple towards black, this full bodied and powerful but voluptuous wine has layer after layer of flavors and aromas that arise as the wine sits in the glass and on the palate. Among dominant sensations to look for are for black cherries, currants, black pepper and spices. Beyond that you will also find here a hint of what might be soy sauce or balsamic vinegar as well as mineral sensations that arise on the long, long finish. Given time to open in the glass the wine will drink well now but needs time. Cellar comfortably until 2012 - 2015. By the way, if this one reminds you of a great Bordeaux, don't be surprised. Score 93+.

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1994: Deep purple towards black, with orange reflections and intense fruits, herbs and even the hint of balsamic vinegar in its bouquet, this huge, dense wine has finally opened and now proudly displays sample black fruits, currant, cassis and mineral flavors. A generously peppered long finish. Drink now - 2012. Score 94.

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1993: Still opaque purple towards black, this wine has evolved beautifully over the years, the tannins now integrated beautifully into the well structured framework. With an intense bouquet and flavors that include black fruits, mineral and earthy notes, and a finish that seems to go on without end. Let this one open in the glass for twenty - thirty minutes before drinking. Hold for another year or two and then drink until 2012 - 2015. Score 93.

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1992: Deep, inky black-purple with orange reflections, this medium to full bodied and intense wine has complex black fruit, mineral and herbal aromas and flavors, all of which come together very nicely indeed with now well-integrated tannins and generous hints of chocolate and mocha that come in at the finish. Drink now - 2010. Score 92.

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1991: Deep in its ruby-garnet-purple color and, as one has come to expect, massive in its concentration, with abundant tannins and equally abundant black fruits, cedar wood, tobacco and chocolate aromas and flavors. Alcoholic and massive, but the wine is big enough to carry the almost sweet ripe fruits that are found on the long, long finish. Drink now - 2012 or longer. Score 93.

Rene Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1990: Deep purple, with a dark orange rim this full bodied and still tannic wine shows no signs of lessening with age. In fact, the wine is still a bit young and needs at least thirty minutes to open in the glass before it starts to reveal its black fruit, caramel and mineral-earthy overtones. Still somewhat alcoholic and with a hint of residual sweetness, I intend to give this one until 2003 until I start drinking it seriously. Don't hesitate to cellar until 2010. Score 92.

Renier Barbier, Clos Mogador, 1989: With a still youthful royal purple color, this medium to full bodied wine shows sweet black fruits, an almost jammy consistency and a lovely bitter sweet aftertaste. Despite its charms, however, the wine is past its peak and should be consumed now or in the near future. When the wine was at its peak (when tasted in 1996) it earned a score of 92. Current Score 88.

© Daniel Rogov