In the 12th century, alchemists in Ireland and Scotland discovered that the process of distilling the mash of grains such as rye and barley could produce a tasty and highly intoxicating beverage. In Gaelic this liquid was called "woosk'akei", which meant "the water of health". The Scots shortened the term somewhat, calling these liquids "whiskey". Many years later, in a humorous mood, American author Norman Mailer reflected that "since that day, no Scotsman or Irishman has ever been completely sober".

Twenty years ago, 95% of the Scotch whisky drunk outside of Scotland was blended whiskey. Most Americans and Japanese (who are the world's largest consumers of whisky) felt that unblended malt Scotch whisky was distilled by and meant to be drunk by the strong, muscular men who lived in the harsh open air of the Scottish Highlands. Unblended Scotch whisky has not changed but the tastes of Americans and Japanese have, and single malt whiskeys with once unknown names such as Dalwhinnie, Cragganmore, Obam, and Talisker have become household names, at least in the households of the 10% of the most upwardly mobile segments of the population. Even in Israel, single malt whisky has made amazing inroads. At least 38 versions of single malt Scotch whiskey are available in better wine and spirits stores and some of the best bars offer as many as 60 different labels available to their clients.

There is no question but that single malt Scotch whisky is a noble beverage and, as I discovered at a recent tasting, the 18 year old whisky of Lagavulin is one of the most noble of all. Founded in 1816, and situated on a small bay near the south coast of the island of Islay, Lagavulin stands near the ruins of Dunyveg Castle. The whisky of Lagavulin is often described as the most dramatic and complex of all Islay whiskys. While many elements contribute to its distinct, robust character, one of the most important is the effect of the peat in the water that is used to make it.

Probably the most pungent of all malt whiskys, Lagavulin is distinctive and robust with a heavy, powerful aroma and its smoky peaty taste is a delight to discriminating drinkers. Bottled only after it has spent 16 years in oak casks, this is a malt whisky to be sipped and savored and never gulped down. Full bodied, well balanced, with a slight honey-like sweetness on the palate and a velvety, complex and somewhat spicy finish, this is one of the finest of the single malt whiskeys.

Potential buyers of single malt Scotch whisky should be aware of several things First, all scotch whisky matures and improves in oak casks. There really are enormous differences between whiskeys that are 8, 12, 16 or 25 years old. After being bottled, that development stops but the whisky can maintain its quality for 50, 100 or more years so long as the bottle remains sealed. Even after opening, blended whisky will not deteriorate provided that its bottle or decanter is tightly sealed. On the other hand, once single malt whisky has been opened, it will lost much of its power and flavor after 2 - 3 weeks. As to the addition of ice to Scotch, whisky, agreement among connoisseurs is almost universal: although it is permissible to add ice to blended whisky, adding it to a single malt is a sin too severe to be forgiven.

Fine single malt Scotch whisky is never cheap. Thus, to find the single malt that is most appropriate for your taste, I suggest organizing a group of friends and tasting between five and six whiskeys. Such an evening may cost a fortune, but with good company and good food (and a taxi to take you home), it will be well worth the investment.

Whisky Auction in Scotland

True afficanadoes of blended and single malt Scotch whisky will be pleased to know that Christie's auction house in Glasgow holds regular auctions of rare and fine whiskeys twice annually (mid November and mid march). At once such auction, among the offered items were bottles of Spinback 21 year old, Highland Park 27 year old, Glenlivet Special Export Reserve 34 year old, Rosebank Bonded 1938, Glenfiddich 50 year old, and The Macallen 50 year old.Catalogues and other information can be obtained from Christie's Glascow office by telephone at 0141-332-8134 or by fax at 0141-3325759.

The Most Expensive Scotch Whiskey

Twelve bottles of "The Macallan" 60 year old unblended Scotch whiskey were recently released for auction in Milan. The bottles are decorated with designer labels especially created by Italian artist Valerio Adami, and each came with its own brass and glass display case. Described by the editors of "Wine Magazine" as "incredibly smooth, round and rich", an anonymous Scottish businessman entered a sealed bid for 15,000 pounds Sterling for each of the bottles numbered 1 - 6, thus making this the world's most expensive Scotch whiskey. The other bottles remained unsold but this did not discourage auctioneer Paolo Armani who speculates that in "five or six years their value will probably double".

To see my recent evaluation of single malts .. click here

© Daniel Rogov