As Chancellor of the Russian Empire in the mid-19th century, Count Nesselrode was a politician of enormous influence during that period when French cultural influence was at its greatest within Russia. The upper classes all spoke French, Paris fashions were the only truly acceptable styles, and French cuisine was the rage, whether at home, the diplomatic congresses or in public eating houses. In fact, French food was as important to the social success of a diplomat, politician or nobleman as having the right connections with the Royal family.

The extraordinarily wealthy Nesselrode, who had a far better reputation as a host than as a politician or diplomat, enjoyed his many trips to Paris. During the day he was frequently to be found at the stock exchange. At nights he was invariably entertaining friends either in his luxurious eighteen room apartment or at the best restaurants of the city. On one occasion, during a particularly bad day at the stock exchange, Nesselrode lost five million rubles. That evening, a friend offered his condolences but Nesselrode merely shrugged, waved his hand in the air and replied: "But not to worry, my friend, for there are another fifty million that are left to lose if I choose to do it again tomorrow".

In a letter to his son, Nesselrode once wrote that "there are only two things truly worth worrying about - love and food". To the count, the connection between love and gastronomy was clear:"Both begin as forms of sublimation, the one of hunger, the other of desire", and he was especially fond of dining at "Laperouse", one of the few restaurants where, in private dining rooms on the second floor, both appetites could be satisfied. At home in Saint Petersburg, Nesselrode was not particularly lucky in love. He once wrote that his wife "shows not the least bit of imagination in the bedroom, nor the least inclination to make love more than once in every ten days". He was more fortunate in gastronomy however, for his personal chef, a Frenchman named Jean Mouy was considered one of the most talented chefs in all of Russia.

The recipe that follows was devised by Mouy and dedicated to his employer. Although the dish was first invented in Saint Petersburg, it is now offered regularly in Laperouse which is still to be found at the same location (51 quai des Grands-Augustins, Paris 6). Now completely renovated, one may still dine in the small, private dining rooms, each of which is furnished with a couch and where the discreet cough of the waiter is always to be heard as he approaches. One can also still see the entwined hearts, names and dates that courtesans scratched on the mirrors with their diamonds. Gone, however, are the bidets that were disguised as flower vases and placed in the middle of the dining tables.

As to the recipe, which is actually quite simple to prepare, be warned that it contains inordinate amounts of cholesterol and calories. That should, however, stop no basically healthy person from enjoying it enormously


Bombe Nesselrode

1 1/2 cups glazed chestnuts (can be purchased tinned in many delicatessen shops
3 Tablespoons kirsch liqueur or vishniak
about 4 cups highest quality vanilla ice cream, softened but not melted
7 cups sugar
32 egg yolks
2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 cups sweet cream, beaten stiff

Rub the chestnuts through a fine sieve and place them in a small bowl. Pour over the kirsch liqueur and let them soak for 1 - 2 hours, stirring every 15 minutes.

Line an 10 cup mold or glass bowl with the vanilla ice cream and place in the freezer until the ice cream is completely solidified.

In a saucepan dissolve the sugar in 4 cups of water. Bring this syrup to a rapid boil, strain and filter. In the top of a large double boiler over but not in hot water, combine the syrup and egg yolks, stirring regularly with a wire whisk and when the mixture attains the consistency of sweet cream pour it into a bowl. Add the vanilla extract and continue to stir until the mixture is completely cool. Add the pureed chestnuts to the mixture and then fold in the whipped cream. Place the mixture in a glass or ceramic container, cover and refrigerate for 4 - 5 hours. With this mixture fill the center of the bombe. Cover with plastic wrap and return to the freezer until the mixture is solid throughout (2 - 3 hours).

To unmold, dip the mould or bowl in a large bowl of hot water for a few second. Place a chilled serving plate on top of the mould and invert quickly. (Serves 10 - 12).

© Daniel Rogov