When French author Guy du Maupessant visited London in 1872, he was so discouraged by the quality of the food that he found there that he wrote: "The English have only three sauces - a white one, a brown one and a yellow one, and none of them have any flavor whatever". Precisely how the delightful custard cream we know today as Sauce Anglaise (English sauce) came to carry the name of a race of people not particularly beloved or famous for the quality of their cuisine remains somewhat of a mystery. What is known, however, is that the sauce originated in Florence, Italy, probably in the late 15th century (the recipe is given in a book by Bartolomeo Scappi, who may have been the chef to invent it).

The first reference outside of Italy to the sauce is found on the menu of "Lucas", a small tavern opened by Englishman Richard Lucas in Paris in 1732. Lucas offered such English favorites as cold meats, roast beef and plum pudding, the last of which was served with the sauce in question. Some, including historian Sanche Gramont speculate that Lucas took the liberty of renaming the sauce to please the many Englishmen who came to dine at his establishment. Whatever, in 1862 the restaurant moved to 9 place de la Madeleine. In 1925 Francis Carton bought the restaurant and added his name to that of Lucas. Lucas-Carton remains one of the Q\Ë finest restaurants in the world and they still offer "Sauce Anglaise" with several of their desserts.

Sauce Anglaise

8 egg yolks
1 cup confectioners' sugar
pinch of salt
2 1/2 cups milk, boiled
¼ tsp. lemon, vanilla or orange extract

In the top of a double boiler over but not in simmering water blend together the egg yolks, sugar and salt until the syrup forms a ribbon when the spatula is lifted from the pan. Gradually add the boiled milk which has been flavored with the extract. Pour the custard through a fine sieve. If to be used hot keep warm in a double boiler; if to be used cold refrigerate and stir occasionally while cooling.

Variation: Sauce a l'Anglaise aux liqueurs. Prepare the custard as above and when cool add 1 Tbsp. of Curacao, kirsch, maraschino or rum.

© Daniel Rogov