Nearly everybody is familiar with sauce Bearnaise and with the fact that all dishes named "a la Bearnaise" are served with this sauce. No one knows, however, precisely for whom the sauce was named. Some claim that the sauce was first made and served in 1836, at the opening of The Pavillion Henry IV, a restaurant at St. Germain en Laye, not far from Paris. As evidence for their argument, they point out that the restaurant was named for King Henry IV, a noted gourmet who was also known as "the great Bearnaise", because he was born in the village of Bearn.

Unfortunately for those who accept this theory, the recipe for the sauce appears, albeit without a name, in "la Cuisiniere des Villes et des Campagnes", a book published by a now unknown author in 1808, some thirty years before the well known restaurant opened its doors. To make the mystery even deeper, one year after that publication appeared, Georges Beauvier, who had been the chef- owner of Lyon's "Le Relais Arpege" for more than a decade, claimed that he had invented the sauce in 1802 and named it not after the former King or the village in which he was born but after his mistress, whose name was Lisette Bearnaise. We may never know who "really" invented Sauce Bearnaise but it is an ideal sauce to accompany steaks, grilled or fried fish and grilled chicken.

Sauce Bearnaise

1 Tbsp. shallots, chopped
1 sprig of thyme
½ bay leaf
3 Tbsp. tarragon, chopped
2 Tbsp. chervil, chopped
salt and pepper
¼ cup each vinegar and red wine
2 eggs, beaten lightly with 1 Tbsp. water
¼ cup butter, cut into 1 cm. pieces
1½ tsp. lemon juice (optional) pinch of hot paprika (optional)

In an enamel saucepan combine the shallots, thyme, bay leaf, 2 Tbsp. of the tarragon and 1 Tbsp. of the chervil. Add a pinch each of salt and pepper, pour over the vinegar and wine and bring to a boil. Continue to boil until reduced by two-thirds. Let cool.

To the saucepan add the eggs and, over a low flame, beat until the eggs begin to thicken. Immediately begin to add the butter, in small pieces, whisking constantly. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and, if desired, lemon juice and hot paprika. Strain the sauce and add the remaining tarragon and chervil. Use at once or keep warm in a double boiler.

© Daniel Rogov