For at least five thousand years, people have been enamoured by the aromatic plants now known as herbs. The Egyptians, Babylonians, Sumerians and Assyrians all had extensive knowledge about herbs and, in addition to their use in seasoning foods and as medicines, these delicate plants have also played a large factor in legend, fable and witchcraft.

Egyptians once considered basil so godlike a plant that only the Pharaohs were allowed to cut it, and then only with a golden sickle. So important were tarragon and bay to the Sumerians that somewhere about 4,500 BCE they appointed Gula, the goddess of sorcery, as guardian of them. In ancient Greece and Rome, Hectate, the mother of the enchantresses Medea and Circe, found hundreds of ways of using herbs to bewitch or poison her enemies.

Of all the known herbs, none has more tales or superstitions associated with it than basil. In parts of Italy, young men still wear a sprig of basil when ways of using herbs they go courting. It is believed that if their intentions are less than serious, the sprig will wilt. In Korea, basil leaves worn around the neck are thought to protect one from magical spells, and in Mexico it is traditional to bury the dead with several sprigs of basil to placate the demigods that inhabit graveyards. Basil is also a popular herb in which to keep the heads of murdered men. It is said that Salome hid the head of John the Baptist in a pot of basil, and in Keats' poem, the young Isabelle keeps the head of her murdered lover in a pot of basil and waters it with her tears. Even today, self professed witches rely heavily on herbs for their armory of magic and potions.

Even though herbs continue to have medicinal, and some say magical applications, they are most commonly thought of in terms of good dining. It is no less true today than in the time of the Pharaohs that the discrete use of herbs can add a great deal of zest and flavor to even the most simple of dishes.

Herbs always have more flavor when they are fresh. Because it is often difficult to find them fresh in local markets, many find it pleasing and challenging to raise herbs at home. There is nothing daunting about raising herbs and many can be grown in window boxes or pots. My own favorites for growing at home are parsley, thyme, oregano, savory, tarragon, mint, chervil and sage. In addition to the satisfaction of using them in many dishes, the scent of even a small herb garden adds enormous charm to any balmy evening.

Certain herbs seem "made" to complement certain foods. The following glossary lists many of the herbs in common use.

Basil: This versitile, aromatic herb is especially important in French, Greek, Italian and Arabic cookery. The chopped leaves may be used in soups; fish and egg dishes; meat and poultry stews; in making sausages; and in potato, rice and bean salads. Especially good with vegetables such as zucchini, onions and eggplant. Ideal for use in tomato and green sauces, in particular the renowned Italian pesto. Often used together with garlic.

An excellent choice for planting in pots or window boxes, the leaves dry and freeze well. Seeds should be sown in the spring and once the plants have established themselves it is best to nip the tops to make them bush out.

Bay: An important ingredient in cooking sweet or savory dishes, strong and spicy bay leaves should be used moderately in soups, fish dishes, meat stews, pot roast, boiled beef, tongue and poultry dishes. The leaves are good with lentil and bean dishes, and are excellent for making poultry stuffings. Bay leaves are also often used as ingredients in marinades and sauces.

Untrimmed, bay trees which are members of the laurel family, grow to 15 - 18 meters in height. Despite this, this evergreen can be trimmed and grown in a tub so long as it is pruned early in the spring and at least twice each summer. The leaves can be picked at any time and the tree may be propagated by cuttings taken in late summer. The leaves dry well.

Chervil: With its mild anise flavour, this herb serves as an ideal garnish for salads, chicken and vegetable soups, fish dishes, omelets, all meats, poultry, and game. Good with vegetables such as asparagus and new potatoes, chervil is also used in herb butters and many sauces, especially Bearnaise, remoulade and ravigote. Frequently used together with chives and parsley, the leaves should be added to recipes only when cooking is completed.

An ideal plant for window boxes and pots, chervil seeds should be sown in late summer and leaves may be picked throughout the year. The leaves freeze and dry well.

Coriander: Sometimes known as Japanese parsley, coriander is an important component of mixed pickling spices and in chutneys. North African, Greek and Middle-Eastern cooks often use this herb uncooked in salads. Despite a rather pungent odor, the taste is delicate and the leaves add a marvelous touch to beef stews and soups.

Coriander may be grown in pots and seeds should be sown in the spring. Leaves may be picked at any time but the plants should be cut down as soon as any sign of flowering begins. The stems should then hung to dry so that the seeds can be collected. Best when used fresh, the leaves can be frozen but do not dry well. The seeds, used in pickling spices, dry well.

Dill: Famous for pickling, the mild anise taste of dill goes well with soups, fish dishes, salads and egg dishes. The chopped leaves (which should always be added at the end of cooking) are equally good with lamb and veal, in creamed chicken and with vegetables such as tomatoes, cabbage and mushrooms. Invaluable in making fresh sauerkraut or pickled cauliflower, dill is also very popular in making cucumber and potato salads and in sour cream sauces.

Native to the Mediterranean, dill can be grown in pots or window boxes if the plants are cut down when they reach about 20 cm. in height. The seeds and leaves can both be dried but do not freeze well.

Horseradish: Although not strictly an herb, horseradish has a strong, hot, pungent flavor and the roots are used in sauces with smoked fish, roast and boiled beef, tongue, poultry shellfish and tomato dishes. The roots should always be scraped and then grated, minced or ground before use.

Because this perennial plant, which looks like a parsnip, has deep growing roots, it is not appropriate for home growth. The one rule to keep in mind is that fresh horseradish is always better than that which is tinned, jarred or otherwise pre-packaged.

Hyssop: One of the herbs mentioned in the Bible, this slightly bitter, somewhat minty plant is frequently used in Middle Eastern cookery. The dried leaves go well with stews, salads, and fruit pies and are particularly appropriate for use with oily fish. The dried flowers of the plant are valued for use in soups.

Hyssop grows well in pots and thrives in partial shade. The seeds should be sown in April or May or the plant may be propogated by root division in spring or autumn. One should take care in growing hyssop however, as bees are especially attracted to the flowers.

Mint: There are about 20 varieties of mint and the chopped leaves of nearly all go well with grilled lamb and veal, in making mint jelly, and to garnish fruit cups. Mint sprigs are especially good to complement new potatoes and nearly any dish with carrots, eggplant or peas. Mint is also a favorite for making teas and tissanes.

All versions of mint like rich soil and the roots run under- ground to send up numerous shoots. The best way to contain a mint plant from spreading too far and choking the roots of neighboring plants is to place it in a pot and sink this either into the ground or a window box. Mint should be cut back every time fresh shoots appear, and if the plant becomes too dense new plants may be started from shoots. Even though mint is always at its best when used fresh, the leaves may be dried or frozen.

Oregano: The chopped leaves of oregano are used with nearly all pasta and Italian dishes, with beef, veal and poultry stews and in chili con carne. The flavor of oregano is also considered indispensable to many tomato and barbecue sauces and many Middle Eastern recipes call for its use in meatballs, sausages and stuffings.

Oregano may be grown from seed but is far more easily propagated by division in spring or autumn. A relatively easy herb to grow in window boxes or pots, the leaves freeze and dry well.

Parsley: There are several varieties of parsley but the Italian variety, with flat leaves is most popular. Probably the most often used of herbs, parsley is not only an attractive garnish but also serves as a subtle addition to soups, stews, salads, sauces and stuffings. It goes with all meats, fish and poultry, and is ideal for use in omelets and scrambled eggs.

Despite its popularity it is not easy to grow parsley. Slow to germinate, the plant will sometimes not come up at all. Ideally planted in April or May, one should make shallow holes in well worked moisture-retaining soil. The holes should then be lined with peat, the parsley seeds sprinkled in and then covered with about 5 mm. of soil. One should then wait 5 - 8 weeks before despairing, keeping the soil well watered. If by that time the plant has not germinated, it is worth trying again. Although dried parsley may found virtually everywhere, it will never prove as rewarding as fresh leaves.

Rosemary: The sprigs of this Mediterranean herb are used to good advantage in cooking roast lamb, veal and chicken as well as in making pot roasts and marinades. The chopped leaves are often used in soups, fish dishes, meat stews and dishes based on potatoes, peas and sweet peppers. Spaniards and Italians use rosemary in fruit compotes, with salmon, in fish stuffings and with chicken and pea soups. Because rosemary has a strong distinctive flavour it overpowers the natural taste of other herbs if not used sparingly.

These fragrant little bushes have attractive evergreen leaves, green on the top, gray underneath. They are beautiful to look at and have a delightful aroma. Best grown from cuttings made in late summer or early autumn, rosemary is partial to sunny spots sheltered from the wind and cold. The herb grows well in pots but should be pruned carefully to keep the bush compact. The leaves dry well.

Sage: With its strong flavor and mildly bitter taste, sage should always be used sparingly and goes particularly well with fatty foods such as goose, duck, sausages and meat stews. It is indispensable to the famous Italian dish, saltimbocca, and many Mediterranean people use it with salads.

Sage is best grown in pots and should be propagated by cuttings in the late spring. As the plant matures, the stalks should be cut back after flowering to encourage the bush to grow in a compact shape. Sprigs are best when picked just before the bush flowers. The leaves dry and freeze well.

Savory: The light peppery taste of both winter and summer savory makes the chopped leaves of this herb good for soups, with egg dishes, beans, fish, beef and poultry. Also popular in salads and omelets, savory should be used in moderation as it tends to drown out the flavor of other herbs.

Savory is easily raised in pots and grows to about 30 cm in height. Sprigs may be propagated at any time and fresh leaves can be enjoyed throughout the year.

Tarragon: With its mildly licorice and slightly bitter flavor, tarragon is considered the prince of herbs. The chopped leaves are used in salads and sauces, with mushrooms, in many egg dishes and with fish, veal, chicken and turkey. Tarragon vinegar is excellent for salads and the herb is an excellent accompaniment with potato, mushroom, spinach and artichoke dishes. Tarragon is also one of the ingredients of fines herbes.

It is easy to grow tarragon in window boxes or pots, but one should be careful of creeping roots. Grown indoors it can be used throughout the year and the leaves may be dried or frozen.

Thyme: There are more than 50 varieties of thyme, all native to the Mediterranean region. The sprigs are used for making stocks and marinades. The chopped leaves are frequently used in soups, fish, meat, poultry, cheese and egg dishes. The leaves may also be used in stews, stuffings and a wide variety of sauces.

All of the varieties are attractive and aromatic and give beautiful flowers and all grow easily in window boxes or pots. Thyme may be grown from seeds or small sprigs and may be planted at any time of the year.

© Daniel Rogov