Until 1726, when it came under the protection of the house of Savoy and became an integral part of Italy, the island of Sardinia was conquered by just about anyone who happened to come along. Among others who at various times occupied the island were the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs, the Catalans and the Aragonese. Largely because so many of the conquerors of the island came from the direction of the Iberian Peninsula, many of the grapes that are used to make wine on the island have their genetic roots in Spain. Today, because those grapes have been replaced by other varietals within Spain, some, including Cannonau, Vermentino, and Monica are found only on Sardinia. Others of the varietals found on the island, in particular the Bovale Sardo, the Muristellu and the Pascale, seem to have made their way to the island from Greece.

Until as recently as eight years ago, the wines of Sardinia were noted primarily for their high alcohol level (sometimes as high as 19%) and the coarse, burning sensation they left on the palate and in the throat. Happily, with the introduction of more modern agricultural and wine-making methods in recent years at least a handful of Sardinian wineries are now producing wines of notable quality that are fascinating not only because they are made from grapes with which we are not yet familiar, but also because they reflect the special soil and climatic conditions that typify the island.

Argiolas, Korem, Isola de Nuraghi, 1998: Loaded with silky smooth tannins, and packed with almost jam-like fruits and plenty of vanilla, this full bodied and tannic wine shows off with its abundance of plumk coffee, leather, smoke and vanilla. After about 12 months in French oak barrels, this highly successful blend of Bovale Sardo, Carignan, Cannonau, Syrah and Merlot is ripe and subtle, and has flavors that linger on and on. Drink now or for until about 2007. About $30. Score 92+.

Argiolas, Turriga, Isola de Nuraghi, 1995: Rich and supple with complex berry, anise, earth and tar aromas and flavors that unfold in layer after layer on the palate. A wine with depth, but because it is nearing its peak, a wine to drink now or in the next year or two. A bit dear but worth hunting for. About $45. Score 91.

Argiolas, Costera, 1998: A blend of 95% Canonau grapes and with the balance made up from Carignan, Muristellu and Pascale grapes, this light, lively and fruity red wine has an unexpected complexity in its aromas and flavors. With lots of wild berry and cherry flavors and aromas all overlayed nicely with hints of violets, freshly cut hay and even a touch of leather, and with flavors that fill the mouth nicely, this smooth, low-tannic wine will go as nicely with grilled fish and chicken as it will with lamb chops, kebabs, and steaks. Fully ready for drinking. About $18. Score 86+.

Argiolas, Costamolino, 1999: Made almost entirely from Vermentino grapes, and with no exposure whatever to oak casks, light to medium bodied white has aromas and flavors of almonds, pecans, spring flowers, nutmeg and other spices. Refreshing and with just enough complexity to enchant, the wine can be drunk now or stored comfortably for another year or two. About $16. Score 87+.

Argiolas, Perdera, 1999: This soft, light, and easy to drink red wine contains 90% of Monica grapes, the balance being made up by Carignan, Pascale and Bovale Sardo. Unoaked, with very moderate tannins and with fresh, fruity aromas and flavors this will be a good choice for Mediterranean and Provencal style dishes based on shrimps, calamari, octopus and mussels. In a phrase, a fun wine.
About $12. Score 85.

© Daniel Rogov