One of France's truly great gastronmes, Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Perigord claimed that the luxury of his table was one of the most important elements in the success of his diplomacy and intrigues. Others think that it was an absolute lack of moral scruples that allowed him to survive the French Revolution, the Directory, the Empire and the Restoration. Born in Paris in 1754, Talleyrand had two guiding principles. The first he expressed in a letter to a friend: "Never let religion or morality interfere with your career or personal pleasure". He shared the second with his chef: "The secret of survival is obvious - give good dinners and stay in the good graces of women".

Even though he was appointed Abbot of Saint-Denis at the age of twenty-one and made Bishop of Autun at thirty-four, neither church business nor politics ever stopped Talleyrand from leading a brilliant and dissipated worldly life. During Napoleon's reign, for example, Talleyrand's exquisite sense of taste and the unmatched abilities of his chef, the great Antonin Careme, guaranteed that his was the most luxurious table in all of Europe. Their talents in the kitchen and the genius of both men for personal survival came together to produce weekly dinners to which everyone vied for invitations. This extravagance at the table was not only for gastronomical satisfaction. Talleyrand was convinced that nearly every important idea could be expressed at or in relation to the dinner table. He also believed that the pleasure he offered his guests at his receptions was an important element in his success as a diplomat.

To make certain that their table would always be perfect, Talleyrand and Careme spent an hour together every morning considering what might be best for the evening's dinner. In his diary, Careme wrote that his employer insisted on using "only the finest and freshest products. ...Everything was ability, order and splendor and dinners of forty-eight different dishes were not uncommon. I have designed them and I have seen them served. Who has not seen such a dinner has seen nothing at all".

The following dish was dedicated to Talleyrand by Jules Montagne, the chef in charge of preparing cold hors d'oeuvres under Careme's supervision.

Anchovies Talleyrand

1 romaine lettuce, with the coarse leaves discarded (can also use cos or butter lettuce)
butter as required
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup tuna fish, cooked, ideally fresh and in a single piece (can use tinned if necessary)
1/4 cup mushrooms
12 fresh anchovy fillets or small herring fillets
4 hard boiled eggs, cut in thick slices
3 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. olive oil
lemon wedges and slices of beets for garnish

Shred the lettuce leaves and then weigh them. For every 225 grams of lettuce melt 3 Tbsp. of butter in a skillet. Season the lettuce with salt and pepper and add them to the skillet. Cook gently just until the liquids are evaporated. Set aside to keep warm.

Rub the tuna and mushrooms through a fine sieve and mix them together until the mixture is smooth. Add the mayonnaise and mix well. Spoon this mixture onto the fish fillets and then roll the fillets, fastening if necessary with a toothpick. Place each fillet on a slice of the hard boiled egg and transfer to a small serving plate. Surround with the cooked lettuce, sprinkle over the olive oil and decorate the plates with lemon wedges and beet slices. Serves 6 as an
hors d'oeuvre.

© Daniel Rogov