Providence, Rhode Island is famous for three things: it is one of only two American cities that is more or less openly controlled by the Mafia (the other one is Las Vegas); it is the city in the world most often associated with witches; and it was the birthplace of horror story writer H.P. Lovecraft. Because Providence is hardly a city of great culinary renown, it comes as a surprise to many to realize that one of America's best casual dining spots is located here.

If Providence is an unlikely location for such a culinary honor, George Germon and Johanne Killeen are equally unlikely co-owners of such an establishment. After studying sculpture and architecture, Germon taught at the Rhode Island School of Design. Killeen, on the other hand studied photography and, "only by the merest of chances, started working in a restaurant near Florence". Both lived and traveled extensively in Italy (he in Rome and she in Tuscany) and both became enamored with the opulence of Italian cuisine.

The reason they settled in Providence was quite simple, says Germon, who, while still a student "could not resist buying one of those beautiful old haunted houses with its huge fireplaces and chimneys". Despite their love for food, opening a great restaurant was the dream of neither until Germon designed a restaurant for a friend and was then offered the chance to be the chef there. "I hate to be banal", he reflects, "especially when considering the nature of the city in which I live, but it was virtually an offer I couldn't refuse".

"Al Forno" means "from the oven", and in keeping with its name, most of the cooking here is done in wood-burning stoves or over open flame grills that they designed for their own use. Germon and Killeen, who are husband and wife, are also co-chefs, sharing the same kitchen and saying that they never argue about who will prepare what on any given day. Dining here demonstrates that both are having an ongoing romance with the ingredients, instincts and skills that are involved in creating meals that have become famous for enhancing the flavor of each ingredient.

"For us" says Germon, Al Forno is an art project that keeps evolving. The kitchen is our studio and the food we cook is like a canvas that is constantly being repainted, changed and refined". The couple makes constant visits to Italy for inspiration, arealways seeking out better oils, pastas, and wines, and, if the truth be known, says Killeen, "we are having a damned good time of it".

More than enjoying themselves, the couple are widely credited with having invented the grilled pizza (a thin cornmeal-laced dough baked on a wood fired grill so that the smoke gently perfumes the crust but does not penetrate it, and is then topped with tomatoes and garlic that have been cooked to a rich infusion with red wine, a touch of cheese, a hint of spicy olive oil and a shower of fresh herbs. Every dish in the restaurant bears their signature. Their ribbons of thin lasagna pasta are blended with ultra-spicy sausages and peppers and served with rich, soothing mounds of mashed potatoes; lamb salad with a cassis based vinaigrette are served with roasted wild mushrooms, garlic with olive oil; roast pork with squash flavored mashed potatoes and berry glazed lamb steaks with celery mashed potatoes, white beans and roasted red peppers have given them a name for preparing food that is homey, visually appealing in an unfussy way and boldly seasoned. Theirs is a cuisine with no tricks, just a searching for deep flavors and deep satisfaction.

Equally important is the feeling of spontaneity that permeates their lives. "Sometimes", says Germon,"I do things and I don't even know why I'm doing them. I guess its just that at the time it seems like the natural course to take when you have a great ingredient to work with". However it happens, it seems to happen right for this team. The restaurant is open for dinner only. Reservations are not accepted and there is always a wait for tables. Despite that, if you are in Providence or on the way from Boston to New York, this is a place at which you must stop.

Al Forno 577 S. Main Street Providence, Rhode Island: Tel 001-401-273-9767.
Average bill per person is about $35 - 40.

© Daniel Rogov