Not that long ago, I received an email request for a recipe for an "Oyster Po Boy". The request made me smile as I recalled that the first time I dined on a Po Boy (don't worry, if you're not already in the know, I'll tell you in a few minutes precisely what this dish is) I was in Jacksonville, North Carolina in the company of a young woman named Debbie with whom I was deeply in love. I smiled further in remembering other occasions during which this treat found my way -on a visit to Savannah, Georgia, during a Mardi Gras spree in New Orleans, during a raging hurricane in Biloxi, Mississippi, and once driving through the Louisiana town of Lafayette. happily each tie in the company of the same woman.. Now let it be known that even though there is no relationship whatsoever between Po Boys and the world of haute cuisine, this is a treat that hold a special place in my heart and that not only because of Debbie but because a well made Po Boy is a treat that will find a respected place on the palate and in the stomach of any dedicated food lover.

But enough of mysteries. For the uninitiated, Po Boys are sandwiches. Be aware though that comparing Po Boys to most other sandwiches is like comparing brand a new Jaguar sports car to a 1975 Volkswagen Beetle. All Po Boy sandwiches start off by slicing a 12 - 15 inch (30 - 40 cm.) length of a French baguette (known generally in the south as "hoagie rolls") lengthwise and hollowing out the bottom half. From there on, everything is left to the imagination of the person making the sandwich. The bread, for example, can be toasted, grilled or left as is.
As to what fills the sandwich, the only limit is the imagination. Although roast beef and shrimp are the most popular fillings, you can put almost anything you like between those two slices. Oysters, shrimps, shredded bbq beef, hamburgers, cheeseburgers, flaming hot or not at all hot sausages, cheeseburgers, smoked duck breast, fried catfish fillets or chicken breasts, Greek style souvelaki, Middle Eastern kebabs or shawarma, ham without cheese, ham with cheese, cheese without ham and even Jewish corned beef have at one time or another found themselves between the top and bottom of a Po Boy. What is critical to the success of the sandwich is the quality and freshness of those ingredients.

But here again, we are only at the beginning, for spread on the basic ingredient can be an almost infinite number of sauces and condiments. On their own or in any combination your palate desires, these sandwiches can be dosed with as much or as little as you like of butter, beef gravy, mayonnaise, remoulade sauce, chunky hot pepper sauce, mustard (Creole mustard and Italian fruit flavored mustard are favorites), ketchup, chili sauce, sweet pickle relish, or garlic-rich aioli sauce. Believe it or not, Po Boys can even be served without any sauce whatever, but even here your decision making process is not at an end for you have to decide whether to dress the sandwich with one combination or another of lettuce, tomato, raw or fried onions and pickles.

When ordering or making a Po Boy keep in mind that while great fun, these sandwiches can make for sloppy eating and the more gravy and mayonnaise you put on it, the messier it will be. I am convinced that the bankers and art dealers of New Orleans are the only people on the planet to have mastered the art of eating a Po Boy while dressed in polished shoes and either a suit or a dress and avoiding having any sauce drip on their attire.

Oh yes… a word of history. The Po Boy, which is never, never referred to as a Poor Boy below the Mason-Dixon Line (the border between Pennsylvania and Maryland that in the minds of most Americans divides "North" from "South") almost certainly originated in New Orleans, its goal to provide blue collar workers, farmers and others without a great deal of cash at their disposal with a full meal that happened to find itself between two slices of bread and that could be consumed in a relatively short period of time. Happily, the sandwich has made its way into the mainstream culinary life of many southern states and in addition to a host of fast-food eateries, there are even upswing restaurants that now specialize in them.

Following are several of the recipes I have received, tested and found splendiferous. If these do not suit the mood of the moment, simply review the list of potential ingredients above and make your own combination. As to beverages, with oyster versions I recommend Oregon or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc; with roast beef a California or French Pinot Noir (but for heaven's sake not a great Burgundy!); with catfish or salmon versions go for an unoaked Chardonnay (my own choice will be for Chablis); with hamburgers a nice little Beaujolais or Cote du Rhone red.
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Oyster Po Boy

1 baguette (hoagie loaf), 12 - 15" (30 - 40 cm.) long.
2 tsp. butter, softened
12 oz. (350 gr.) raw oysters (weighed after being removed from their shells)
1/2 cup of cornmeal seasoned generously with salt, pepper, thyme and basil
oil for deep frying
2 1/2 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. sweet pickle relish
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup shredded lettuce
1/2 large tomato, sliced thinly
Tabasco or other hot sauce (optional)

Slice the bread in half lengthwise; hollow out the bottom section and spread inside surfaces of the bread with butter. Place the bread on a baking sheet, and put under a hot grill or broiler until lightly browned; set aside.

Pat the oysters dry and then dredge them in the seasoned cornmeal mix, coating well. Heat deep oil to a temperature of 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190 Celsius). With a slotted spoon place the oysters in oil and fry until the oysters float to the surface (3 - 4 minutes). Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper toweling and set aside to keep warm.

In a small bowl combine mayonnaise, pickle relish and lemon juice to taste and spread this mixture on the hollow side of the bread. On this place the oysters, lettuce and tomatoes. Cover with the top half of the bread. If you want to dine like ladies and gentleman, cut the sandwich in half and share the sandwich with someone you care for.
If you want to gain maximum pleasure make two sandwiches, do not cut them in half and simply enjoy!

Oyster and Ham Po Boy

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 large egg whites
1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper
12 - 15 shucked oysters, drained
1 1/2 tsp. vegetable oil
2 cups shredded lettuce (the standard is for iceberg lettuce, but my own
preference is for butter lettuce or curly red lettuce)
3 Tbsp. tartar sauce
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
6 ounces thinly sliced smoked ham
8 thin slices tomato
2 baguettes, each 12 - 15" (30 - 40 cm.) long.

Spread the flour in a shallow dish and on a separate plate spread the seasoned breadcrumbs. In a small bowl beat the egg whites lightly with 1 Tbsp. of cold water.

Dredge the oysters in the flour, dip them into the egg white mixture and then dredge in the breadcrumbs, coating well.

In a large non-stick skillet heat the oil until a drop of water sprinkled in spatters. Gently place the oysters in the skillet, and fry until golden brown (about 4 - 5 minutes on each side). Remove from the heat and let the oysters drain for a few minutes on paper toweling.

In a bowl toss together the lettuce, tartar sauce and lemon juice.

Arrange the ham and tomato slices on the bottom half of each roll; top with the oysters and then the lettuce mixture. Cover the sandwich with the second half of the bread and serve while still warm, whole to provide two humongous sandwiches, halved to serve 4.

Blackened Salmon Po Boy Sandwich

4 salmon steaks or fillets, about 6 oz. (180 gr.) each, boned and without skin.
4 slices cut from a baguette or hoagy roll, each about 6" (15 cm.) long, split lengthwise and
with some of the inside bread scooped out
1/2 cup each red and green cabbage, shredded
8 slices tomato
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup Cajun spice mixture
salt and pepper to taste
oil as required

Note: Because the blackening process generates a great deal of smoke, be sure to prepare this dish outdoors over hot charcoals and indoors only if you have good ventilation.

In a small bowl mix together the mayonnaise with 1 - 2 tsp. of the Cajun space mixture. Correct the seasoning with salt, pepper and, if desired, more of the spice mixture.

Brush both sides of the salmon lightly with oil and sprinkle with Cajun spice mixture to taste, being aware that the more spice you use, the hotter and more piquant will be the final result.

Heat a large heavy (and unoiled) skillet over a high heat for 15 - 20 minutes. Place the salmon in the skillet and cook until blackened on the first side (2 - 3 minutes). With a spatula turn and cook the other side until the fish is cooked to its desired degree of doneness.

Spread 1 or more Tablespoons of the mayonnaise mixture onto the bottom of each bread section, on this place the salmon and over all place 2 slices of tomato and 1/4 cup of the shredded cabbage. (Serves 4).

© Daniel Rogov