Few Bordeaux chateaux produce wines as consistently great as those of Chateau Margaux, and when I recently received an invitation to a vertical tasting that would include wines from various vintage years ranging from 1900 to 1999, I was reminded of the godfather's invitation "that could not be refused".

As early as 1787, Thomas Jefferson selected the wines of Chateau Margaux as "among the four best wines in the world". Categorized in the Bordeaux listings as a first growth wine and perhaps the best known wine in the world, the wines of Chateau Margaux are rarely surpassed for their fragrance, elegance and delicacy. The Chateau itself is a First Empire building, its colonnaded portico, which dates from 1804 appearing on the well known label. The grapes are hand picked and sorted, fermentation takes place in tanks and 100% new oak barriques (225 liter barrels), and this is followed by 18 months to 2 years of maturation in oak after which the wine is fined but not filtered. The grapes used are 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% of a combination of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Only about 360,000 bottles are produced annually.

Chateau Margaux, 1900: Several years ago, I sampled this wine in standard 750 ml. bottles and was surprised to find that it was still alive. Well, alive, but barely so, the wine showing just a bit too much of caramel and not enough of fruit and with a rapidly browning color. Considering its age and its former glory, that was forgiveable. At my most recent tasting we tasted the wine from double magnum bottles and, as Topsy said, "Lordy, Lordy, it just grewed". Full bodied, with now silky smooth tannins and surprising remnants of wild flowers, black currants and black pepper in its aromas and flavors, the wine was little short of magnificent. Considering that in drinking a wine like this one stands in awe of a full century of wine-making and human history, the wine continues to earn its score of 100. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1947: Tannic and thick but delicate and still young enough to make flirtation well worth while, the wine now shows aromas and flavors of black currants, pepper, alspice, cedar wood all with a light and comfortable overlay of fresh beef. As the wine opens on the palate it reveals chocolate and black cherry flavors. Refined and elegant, the wine should be drunk in the near future and is not appropriate for further cellaring. Score 94+. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1961: Full bodied and with its deep royal purple color beginning to show hints of browning. Aromas of black currants, cedar wood (or was it hickory?) and violets. A powerful, well balanced, full bodied, and truly magnificent wine. At an earlier tasting I suggested that the wine is eminently drinkable now and might live until 2050. I have no reason to change that estimate. Score 100. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1978: Following the triumphal wine of 1961, the Chateau went into a period of decline and until its renaissance in 1978 produced not a single wine of importance. This wine however is lovely, full bodied and deep, slightly low in bouquet now but with appealing flavors of currants, stewed prunes and hints of chocolate. Not appropriate for further cellaring but a wine that will make for elegant drinking now or in the near future. Score 92+. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1979: One of the most straightforward and fruity Margaux wines ever produced. Medium to full bodied, with lots of black currant, black cherry and smoky wood aromas, the wine is perfectly ready for drinking now. Score 90. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1981: Medium bodied, with a traditional Margaux nose and flavors of currants, violets, cedar wood. With flavors that linger long and comfortably on the palate, the wine is fully ready for drinking now but will store nicely for another 6 - 10 years. Score 92. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1982: With its concentrated and rich bouquet and flavors of cinnamon, rose petals, spices and currants that linger on and on, this harmonious, full bodied wine has been described by Serena Suthcliffe of Sotheby's as "heavenly". I agree with that evaluation. Drink now or in the next two decades. Score 99+. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1983: Extraordinary in every way, this rich, full bodied wine has exquisite spicy aromas, and layer after layer of complex flavors that unfurl, seemingly without end on the palate.
If there are two words to summarize the wine, those would be "finesse" and "opulence". Score 97+. (Tasted 29 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1985: Full bodied but remarkably soft and luxurious, with aromas of freshly ground coffee, cinnamon and smoky wood overlaying flavors of black currants and wild berries, this luxurious wine will drink nicely now but can be laid down for another decade or longer. Score 92. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1986: A massive and concentrated wine, packed with tannins and cedary aromas And flavors of black currants, loganberries, stewed plums, and vanilla. Extraordinary depth and with flavors that linger seemingly without end, the wine can be approached now but will continue to age nicely. If you have to make a comparison, compare this to the 1961 wine. Score 97. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1988: An ultra dense, full bodied and remarkably tannic wine, with aromas and flavors of wild flowers, berries, cherries, eucalyptus and cassis. Let it open in the glass and you will find it revealing riper fruits on the finish. Still tannic as hell right now, but as those settle down with further age the wine will assume increasing elegance. Drink now if you must, but ideally hold for another 5 years or more. Score 90. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1989: Full bodied, with aromas and flavors of black and red berries, chocolate, figs, cinnamon and wild flowers, but still in its infancy and thus absolutely packed with tannins and still somewhat coarse and closed. Give this wine another decade before starting to drink it and you will find that it smooths out and reveals an exquisite sense of elegance. Don't rush to drink it even then however, as the wine should cellar comfortably for at least another quarter of a century. Score 98.
(Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1990: As deep in color as it is in body and flavors, this very well balanced full bodied wine shows appealing flavors and aromas of currants, blackberries, plums and spices. Even now the tannins are smooth and silky but the wine is still somewhat closed and should be held for at least another five years before drinking. My estimate is that the wine will reach its peak only in about 2020.
Score 97. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1991: Largely because of a problematic harvest (a spring frost that destroyed much of the crop), this is not the very best Margaux. With aromas and flavors dominated largely by berries and the feeling on the palate of drinking an almost sweet liqueur, the wine is ready for drinking now.
Score 88. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1993: Medium bodied, and with lots of black currant, oak and spice flavors and aromas and just enough tannins to add complexity, this is a wine best categorized as "not quite great". Drink now or in the next few years. Score 89. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1995: A surprisingly good wine from a mediocre harvest. Medium to full bodied and with tempting aromas of smoky oak and what at one moment seems like licorice and the next mint, and flavors of black fruits, currants, minerals and just a hint of creme caramel. Hold for another 4 - 5 years and then drink until 2030 or later. Score 95. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1996: With a color so deep it might justifiably be considered black, this full bodied wine boasts smooth but well distinguished tannins, an almost flowery bouquet (look for violets and orange flowers) and flavors of berries and minerals. Dense and concentrated, the wine is barely approachable now and will be at its peak only in another 8 - 10 years. Score 94. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1997: Perhaps the very best wine of a not-overly exciting harvest. Medium to full bodied, harmonious and well balanced, this concentrated wine shows plenty of black and red currants, gooseberries, loganberries, all overlaid with a nice touch of the oak in which it was aged. Drink now or in the next five years. Score 89+. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

Chateau Margaux, 1999 (Advance tasting): As I noted at an earlier tasting, this wine is "elegant in every way". With flavors of fruits, spices, spring flowers, this full bodied wine has plenty of tannins and flavors that are rich and delicious and that linger on and on. Tentative Score 94. (Tasted 30 December 2000)

© Daniel Rogov