December, 2000 was a month of great invitations, one to a vertical tasting of the wines of Vega Sicilia and another to sample the wines of Chateau Margaux. The tasting of the Vega Sicilia was a two day affair hosted at Barcelona's Ritz Hotel. Our tastings took place between ten in the morning and a little after noon., the rest of the day being devoted to discussions, dining and, of course, drinking the wines we had tasted earlier. Who was it who once asked: "Who could ask for anything more?"

Located in the Valbuena de Duero region of northern Spain, Vega Sicilia has consistently produced Spain's finest wine since its Unico first appeared in 1941. Founded in 1864 and with vineyards on the southern bank of the Duero River at about 2,400 feet above sea level, the winery produces only about 12,000 cases annually, those wines made in the traditional manner (fermentation in large barrels for two weeks and then matured in 225 liter French oak barriques for at least 10 years before they are released). The winery releases several wines, all of which are good but their Unico is often exquisite. Made from local grapes (Tinto Aragones which is a clone of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Albillo) blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec, it is quite possible to state that the Unico wines are typified by their power and intensity, their deep fruitiness and their exquisite and absolutely enchanting bouquet. Following are my tasting notes of the sixteen wines that we sampled.

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1953: Browning, but with its deep royal purple color still peeking through, this almost half-century year old wine still offers an elegant nose of black cherries and red currants, all with gentle overlays of licorice, eucalpytus. The tannins have almost vanished but the wine still shows its inherent good balance. On the way down, so if you have any on hand drink it in the near future. Score when I first tasted this wine (1968), 96. Tasted in magnum formats. Current score 92. (Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1957: Even though we opened four separate magnum bottles, all proved oxidized and were beginning to show clear signs of caramelization. Alas, this once exquisite wine is now so simultaneously acidic and weary that it is impossible to give it a score. (Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1960: Tastings from both magnum and standard bottles show that this still powerful wine has passed its peak. Despite that, in both formats the wine is still rich in aromas and flavors, showing an rich garnet color, flavors and aromas of stewed apples and prunes, lively red and black berries and vanilla, all of which come together beautifully in an almost sweet finish and with flavors that linger nicely on the palate. Medium to full bodied and with good concentration and balance, the wine should be consumed in the near future. Score 88 (Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1962: A tasting of this wine in standard bottles about two years ago revealed that the wine was definitely on its way down so this tasting, from magnum bottles, came as a delicious surprise. Deeply tannic and remarkably young for its age (bless the Magnum format!), with a royal purple color and an abundance of currants, cherries, vanilla, white pepper and cedar wood aromas and flavors, this is an exquisite wine, opening beautifully in the glass and with an almost sweet finish. Full bodied, concentrated and with an ideal inherent sense of balance, the wine can be approached now but will store nicely for another decade or longer. Score 95. (Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1964: With the color of adobe bricks, this full bodied and concentrated wine has plenty of soft tannins, and cassis, berry, oak and cedar flavors that open and open, seemingly without end. Perhaps just a bit beyond its peak and although it will make for excellent drinking now, not a wine for further cellaring. Score 94.
(Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1968: A truly great wine partly because its bouquet is a Rorschach test for anyone who samples it. In three separate tastings within two days (and believe me, I was truly concentrating) I found at various times aromas of red and black currants, wild berries, violets, coffee, chocolate, leather, oak, birchwood, mint, eucalpytus and even of strawberry jam. Great also in that even at age 32 the wine is remarkably young, its almost black color balanced by glints of ruby-red and the wine balanced handsomely by smooth tannins, remarkable depth and flavors that not only linger cut continue to develop on the palate long after the wine has been swallowed. Drink now or over the next quarter century. Not really a wine for dinner but absolutely great with a well aged Stilton cheese. Score 98. (Tasted 22 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1970: An absolute masterpiece, this is not a wine with which to flirt. On the other hand, it is a wine with which to fall deeply and permanently in love. Call the color of the wine deep ruby or garnet as you like, but when it comes to nose and flavors there will be no dispute, for its remarkably smooth tannins do nothing to hide the exquisite aromas of red currants, plums, wild berries (especially blueberries and loganberries), vanilla and hints of anise. Deep, fresh, elegant and with balance that borders on perfection, this is a wine that can be enjoyed now or stored comfortably for another 20 - 25 years. Score 100. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1974: A mystery wine, for its youthful ruby-red color belies an almost austere and highly tannic nature, and I have wondered every time I have tasted it whether the fruit will vanish before the tannins level off. Whatever, oaky and cedary, this concentrated wine continues to hide what I feel are its potential currant, plum and vanilla flavors. Despite that, the wine has a remarkable elegance and despite its power is a good match to food (especially to the saddle of venison that accompanied it). If I had 20 bottles in my cellar (to my sadness, I do not), I would open a bottle every year for the next two decades to solve the mystery of where it will eventually go. Perhaps not the best year for Unico but surely one of its most fascinating. Score 92? (For those who may be wondering, the question mark is not an error). (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1975: Deep royal purple with ruby and orange highlights, this remarkably concentrated wine maintains an exuberant youthfulness. Full bodied, concentrated and with a bouquet redolent of ripe plums, licorice, oak and apples, and with flavors that linger nicely on the palate, this elegant and delicious wine is perfectly ready for drinking now in either regular format or magnum format bottles. In regular bottles count on it to continue to age well for another 10 - 12 years and in magnum bottles it should cellar nicely until 2025. Score 95. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1976: Neither as full bodied or as concentrated as most of its brothers and sisters, but still delicious. Smooth tannins, herbal, berry and plum flavors and aromas and its medium body come together to make this one of the few Unico's that is ideal with food. (Our own choice was for tournedos Rossini as the accompanying dish). Drink now or in the next five years. Score 89+. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1979: Royal purple with orange highlights that flicker frivolously through the wine as it is held to the light, this truly elegant Unico boasts flavors and aromas of plums, black cherries, vanilla, chocolate and an array of spices. Silky tannins and harmonious balance come together to make this a delicious and elegant wine.
Drink now or in the next five years. Score 92. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1981: A fine example of how individual wines can overcome mediocre vintage years. Full bodied, concentrated and with smooth tannins, an abundance of fruits and layer after layer of flavors that unfold on the palate, this is a wine to be treasured. Drink now or in the next 6 - 8 years. Score 93. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1982: A wine that has developed wonderfully since I last tasted it in 1995 when I rated it a mere 89. Concentrated, so full bodied that it seems chewy, and with a deep ruby red color, and with flavors and aromas of blackberries, raspberries, black cherries, vanilla and just the barest tantalizing hint of spices, this concentrated wine can be approached nicely now but will drink well for the next 10 - 12 years. Score 93. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1985: So youthful you would think it was only five or six years old, and thus still somewhat closed when first poured but opening to reveal a medium to full bodied wine absolutely packed with black currants, plums, berries, oak, tobacco and spices. On my last tasting (12 Sept 98), I wrote that the wine was firm, full bodied, powerful and absolutely irresistible. I have no reason to change that conclusion nor to adjust the score of 96+. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1986: With its once youthful red color now turning to a richer royal purple, this well balanced and powerful wine shows flavors and aromas of plums, black fruits, chocolate, anise and spice flavors. With plenty of smooth tannins and a long finish, this highly styled wine is not at all typical of Unico. Despite that the wine has its own distinct personality and deserves to be tried. Drink now or in the next four or five years. Score 92. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

Vega Sicilia, Unico, 1990: It is always an act of ego for a critic to quote himself, but so be it, for when this wine was first released, I wrote (6 November 2000) that it was "full bodied, with admirable complexity and concentration and flavors and aromas that continue to burst forth on the palate (look especially for dark plums, coffee, cigar box and just the right hints of herbs and earthiness, this is a wine that fills the mouth, sits remarkably comfortably and then lingers long on the palate long after the wine has been swallowed. Drink now or in the next decade." Having tasted it again only demonstrated how comfortable I feel not only about that review but about this superb wine. Score 97. (Tasted 23 Dec 2000)

© Daniel Rogov