No one knows how many soups there are in the world. As long ago as 780 A.D., a cook in the service of a Chinese prince catalogued more than 15,000 and the Larousse Gastronomique offers possibilities for more than 18,000 soups. Considering the national, regional and personal possibilities for permutations and combinations, such catalogues are useless.

What is known is that the distance from the stock pot to the soup plate can be either a long or a short journey. What is called country or peasant style chicken soup is little more than stock, sometimes with the addition of vegetables or herbs, and sometimes with rice. In classic French and Italian cookery the stock often undergoes clarification and sometimes reduction, converting into consomme. In Far Eastern cookery, after the stock has been prepared other ingredients are often added and cooked in the stock. Following, as examples are a few regional variations on the theme of chicken soup.

Note: Throughout this article, references are made to stock and consomme. To read about making chicken and other stocks and consommes, click here.

Turkish corbasi is prepared by cooking rice in the stock. A roux is prepared by blending together butter, flour and yoghurt and this is then blended into the hot stock to thicken it. Once thickened the soup is garnished with fresh chives and dill. De- pending on the chef's mood, lemon juice can be added.

Austrian huhnersuppe is clarified stock to which julienned slices of chicken breast has been added.

Polish zupa kury is made by cooking julienned carrots, cauliflower and noodles in the stock.

Dutch kippesoep is made by cooking rice and celery in the stock? and then thickening it with an egg and flour roux. Chicken meat is sometimes served with the soup.

German huhnersuppe is prepared by cooking cauliflower and asparagus in the stock, thickening with a butter and flour roux and then floating cooked noodles on the surface

Hungarian ujhazilves boasts the addition of carrots, parsnips, turnips, tomatoes, celeriac and whole peppercorns, all of which are cooked in the stock. The soup is frequently served with noodles.

Mexican sopa de pollo, which is invariably seasoned with hot chili peppers, also contains tomatoes, lemon juice, and torn up pieces of tortillas which are floated on the surface.

Japanese suimoni which is prepared by making the stock with leeks and ginger is always served with soy sauce.

The chicken soup of Polish, Russian and German Jews is often served with whole onions that were cooked in the stock.

Chinese subgum soup is made by sauteeing mushrooms and celery? in oil, adding these to the chicken stop together with water chestnuts, bean sprouts and julienned chicken which are cooked together in the soup. An egg is broken into the hot soup and stirred quickly just before serving.

Five Sophisticated Chicken Soups

The following recipes are representatives of the most classic style of French haute cuisine. It is only fair to warn you that not one of them is easy to make! The effort, however, will be well worthwhile, for when prepared well, each of these dishes is a mini-masterpiece that will have your guests sighing with joy.

Consomme a la Lucullus

9 cups chicken consomme
6 - 8 mint leaves
1 egg + 2 egg yolks, beaten together
1 large cooked breast of chicken, cut in julienne slices
6 Tbsp. tapioca
2 Tbsp. chives, chopped

Make a royale by bringing 1 cup of the consomme to the boil and immediately removing from the flame. Add the mint and then let cool for 10 - 12 minutes. Remove the mint leaves and then slowly blend the eggs into the mixture. Strain, skim and pour into a buttered mould. Place in the top of a double boiler and heat, covered, over barely simmering water until the mixture is thickened. Let cool, refrigerate and, when completely cold and firm turn out of the mould and cut into 1 cm dice.

In a saucepan bring the remaining consomme to the boil and sprin- kle in the tapioca. Let boil for 18 minutes and then strain through muslin or a fine sieve. Garnish with the royale, julienned chicken and chives and serve at once. (Serves 8).

Consomme Edward VII

Note: Because two portions of this recipe have to be cooked a full day before serving, please read the entire recipe before starting to prepare the recipe.

For the Mushroom Royale:
1/2 Tbsp. butter
4 - 6 large mushroom caps, chopped finely
2 tsp. Bechamel sauce
3 Tbsp. sweet cream
4 egg yolks

For the Chicken Loaf:
1/4 kilo chicken meat, boned
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. white pepper
2 egg whites
3 1/4 cups sweet cream

For the Consomme:
8 cups chicken consomme
1/4 cup tapioca
2 Tbsp. port wine

Prepare the Mushroom Royale: (To be prepared 24 hours before serving). In a small skillet heat the butter and in this saute the mushrooms for 2 - 3 minutes. Over a very low flame, stirring constantly, add the Bechamel sauce and sweet cream. Put the mixture through a sieve, add the egg yolks, and pour into a small mold that has been buttered in advance. Place the mold in the top part of a double boiler and cook over hot water just until the mixture is firm. Let cool and refrigerate overnight. Just before using, unmold and cut into small dice.

Prepare the Chicken Loaf: (To be prepared 24 hours before 0H? serving). Season the chicken with salt and pepper, chop coarsely and pound finely in a mortar. While pounding, slowly add the egg whites. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve and then stir vigorously with a wooden spoon. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

Place the chicken mixture in a small bowl and place this in a larger bowl that has been filled with ice. A little at a time add the cream, stirring well. When all the cream has been added pour the mixture into a buttered ring mold, filling to about 1 cm of the top.

Fill an oven pan with about 2 cm of water and place the ring mold in the water. Place in a low oven (about 165 degrees Celsius) and cook until the mixture is set (about 1 hour). Remove from the oven, let stand 15 - 20 minutes and turn out. Cover lightly and refrigerate overnight.

Prepare the Consomme: In a saucepan bring the consomme to the boil and then, stirring well, sprinkle in the tapioca. Boil gently for 18 minutes and then strain through muslin or a fine sieve. To serve, stir in the port wine and then garnish the consomme with thin slices of the chicken loaf and the mushroom royale. (Serves 8).

Asparagus Soup a la Emile Zola

3/4 kilo asparagus, trimmed
300 gr. butter
100 gr. flour
5 cups chicken stock
salt and pepper to taste
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup sweet cream
generous pinch of sugar

Place the asparagus in a large saucepan and pour over enough water just to cover. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame. Simmer just until the tips of the asparagus are tender. Drain, cut of the tender tips and set them aside.

Cut the stalks of the asparagus into 1 centimeter lengths. In a saucepan melt half the butter and in this cook the stalks, covered, until they are completely cooked. In separate saucepan melt all but one tablespoon of the remaining butter and into this stir the flour and then the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, immediately reduce the flame and simmer gently for five minutes. Pour about 1/2 cup of the stock mixture over the asparagus stalk and then liquidize the mixture in a blender or food processor. Pour the liquidized asparagus through a strainer into the remaining stock. Reheat the mixture gently and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a mixing bowl beat the egg yolks together with the cream and into these pour 1/2 cup of the hot soup, whipping vigorously with a wire whisk. Pour this mixture into the soup, heat over a moderate flame (without boiling) for 5 minutes. Add a pinch of sugar and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Add the asparagus tips and heat through. Immediately before serving, float the remaining butter on the top of the soup. (Serves 4 - 6).

Consomme a la Reine

9 cup chicken consomme
2 ¼ Tbsp. chervil or, if unavailable, parsley, chopped
1 egg + 2 egg yolks, beaten together
6 Tbsp. tapioca
1 large cooked breast of chicken, shredded coarsely, warm or at room temperature

Prepare the garnish: Bring 1 cup of the consomme to the boil and remove from the flame. Sprinkle in 1/4 Tbsp. of the chervil and let stand for 10 - 12 minutes, and then slowly blend the eggs into the mixture. Strain, skim and pour into a buttered mold. Place in a double boiler, covered, until firm. Let cool, refrigerate and when completely cold turn out of the mold and cut into 1 cm. dice. (This classic preparation is known as a royale.

Make the soup: Bring the remaining consomme to the boil and sprinkle in the tapioca. Let boil for 18 minutes, stirring occasionally, and then strain through muslin or a fine sieve. Garnish with the royale, julienned chicken and remaining chervil. (Serves 6).

Lettuce Soup

about 1 1/2 kilos chicken bones
2 tsp. chopped thyme leaves or 1 tsp. dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. crushed peppercorns
5 Tbsp. butter
1 cup onions, chopped coarsely
1 cup leeks, chopped coarsely
1/2 kilo potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 cm. cubes
1 tsp. salt
1 small head Chinese cabbage

Put the bones in a large kettle or saucepan, pour over 12 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame, add the thyme, bay leaves and peppercorns and simmer gently for 3 hours, skimming the surface occasionally. Strain and measure the quantity of this stock. If there are more than 8 cups, boil gently to reduce. If there are less than 8 cups add water.

Heat 3 Tablespoons of the butter in a pot and in this saute the onions and leeks for 2 minutes. Add the stock, potatoes and salt, bring to the boil and boil gently, partly covered, for 45 minutes. Strain, reserving the liquids separately and process the solids in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Return this puree to the soup.

Separate the Chinese cabbage leaves, wash well cutting the leaves crosswise into thin strips. In an enamel or stainless steel saucepan melt the remaining butter and in this cook the lettuce until just wilted (about 2 minutes). Just before serving add the wilted cabbage to the soup. May be served hot or cold. (Serves 4 - 6).

To read about making a large variety of stocks (for soups, sauces or cooking in general, click here.

© Daniel Rogov