Mention goat's meat and some people will swoon for pleasure while others will show vague or not-so-vague signs of repulsion. Valued in Spain, Italy, the south of France, many of the Caribbean Islands, the mountain and island folk of Turkey and Greece as well as by many Bedouin and other traditionally wandering peoples, the meat of young male and female goats can be extremely appealing and is as nutritive as the meat of sheep and lambs. The problem comes about because most goats are bred and raised for the milk they will yield. This in turn means that those creatures that eventually make their way to the table are far too mature and tough. And there is no question but that the meat of older goats, especially the males, has a smell that is considered "high" and disagreeable to many.

The only trick necessary for those not accustomed to this treat is to realize that those who most value the flavors of goat's meat know that male goats should be eaten only when very young (from about 6 weeks until about 4 months of age), and that of the female up to about one year. Goat or kid meat will always be a bit "tougher" than that of lamb or mutton, but many, including this writer, find that as the cheese of goat milk has its special charms, so does the meat. Following are several recipes that I believe will please even the most sensitive of palates.

Roast Kid
A traditional Turkish recipe

3 1/2 lb (1 1/4 kilo) kid, with bones
4 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
6 cloves garlic
4 tsp. parsley, chopped
3 large onions, peeled and quartered
1 tsp. each salt, black pepper and rosemary

Place the potatoes and onions in a large saucepan with the garlic and parsley. Add water to cover and cook over a medium flame to cover for 30 minutes.

Place the kid in a deep baking dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and rosemary. Cover the meat with the vegetables and 2 cups of the liquids in which they were boiled. Place in a medium oven until the meat is done (about 2 hours), basting occasionally with the fluids. Remove the meat and vegetables from whatever liquids remain and serve hot. (Serves 4).

Goat Stew
A dish known in Montserrat as "Goat Water"

2 1/4 lb (1 kilo) goat meat, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 large onions, sliced
2 tomatoes, sliced thickly
2 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
3 whole cloves
2 Tbsp. each butter and chili sauce
1 Tbsp. flour
salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce to taste
boiled rice for serving

In a heavy saucepan melt the butter and in this saute the onions until just translucent. Add the meat, raise the flame and brown quickly. Add the cloves, tomato, garlic, salt, pepper and Tabasco. Pour over just enough water to cover, bring to the boil, reduce the flame and simmer slowly for 2 hours, skimming periodically. Fifteen minutes before the end of cooking, pour off enough of the liquids to make a paste with the flour. To the paste add the chili sauce and more Tabasco if desired. Stir this paste into the stew and continue cooking, stirring constantly, over a low flame, until the stew thickens. Correct the seasoning and serve hot with boiled rice. (Serves 4).

Goat Meat Curry
A recipe from the island of Grenada

1 1/2 lb (675 gr.) goat meat, cut into 1/2" (1 cm) cubes
1 1/2 lb (675 gr.) boiled rice, boiled with 6 cloves
2 cups coconut milk
2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 green chili peppers, seeded and chopped coarsely
2 stalks celery, sliced thinly
4 spring onions, chopped coarsely
4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
2 Tbsp. black pepper
2 Tbsp. oil
1 Tbsp. coriander, ground
2 tsp. powdered ginger
1 tsp. saffron strands
fruit chutney for serving

In a large heavy saucepan heat the oil. To this add the spring onions, chilis, tomatoes, coriander, saffron, ginger, garlic, celery and pepper and mix well. Add the meat and pour over 5 cups of water. Bring to the boil, reduce the flame and cook uncovered until the meat is tender (about 1 hour), and the water is absorbed. Add the coconut milk, stir and cook again for 3 - 4 minutes. To serve arrange the rice, which should be warm, around the edge of a preheated serving dish and pour the curry into the center. Serve with chutney. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov