Few people have complained more about the cold, damp winters of Paris than American author Ford Maddox Ford who lived there during the 1920s. So much did Ford suffer that he devoted a great deal of his time to searching for what he called "an escape from the perpetual, inescapable grayness that dominates the city between the beginning of December and the end of February". Invariably dressed in a heavy ankle length brown coat, with his necked wrapped in a purple wool scarf and his head covered by an always dirty knitted cap, Ford often passed many of his days visiting the various cafes and bars of the city, in each one talking with the barman, and hoping beyond hope that one of them would offer him the perfect way to keep warm. Like their brothers around the world, Parisian barmen are inventive creatures, and nearly every one that Ford met offered one suggestion or another.

According to his sometimes friend and sometimes rival Robert McAlmon, the following beverages were among Ford's "favorite methods of protecting himself against the cold". Although Ford often drank a liter of Cognac and two or three bottles of wine every day during the four winters he lived in Paris, he never succeeded in finding a permanent cure for his sufferings. Despite his lack of success, however, each of the following drinks are ideal for winter nights. People with less of a suicidal bent than Ford will drink each of these in moderation.

Hot Wine Punch with Oranges: Pour a bottle of dry red wine, 2 measures of brandy and 1 cup of water into a large enamel or stainless steel saucepan and heat until the mixture is very hot but not yet boiling. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the peel of two oranges and the juice of the oranges to the pan and then stir in 6 teaspoons of sugar. Reheat gently but do not boil. To serve, put one orange slice into each of 6 wine glasses and over this pour the punch.

Irish Coffee: In a small saucepan combine 6 measures of Irish whiskey and 3 Tablespoons of coarse brown sugar. Heat but do not boil the mixture, stirring, and then distribute in 6 coffee mugs. Fill each mug to within 1 cm. of the top with strong hot coffee and then spoon over well chilled whipped cream (Serves 6).

Hot Wine Punch with Cloves and Cinnamon: Cut a lemon into 4 slices and stick each slice with a clove. Put the lemon slices, 2 Tablespoons of sugar and 1 large cinnamon stick in an enamel, stainless steel or copper frying pan. Place the pan over a moderate heat, stir occasionally with a wood spoon until the sugar has melted, and then pour in 3 glasses of dry red wine. Continue to stir until the wine has almost reached boiling point and then immediately remove from the heat. Scoop out the lemon and cinnamon and pour the hot wine into mugs.

Cafe Royale: Place a cube of sugar on a tablespoon and soak it in brandy. Hold the spoon so that it rests on top of a cup of strong hot coffee and carefully ignite the brandy. Hold the spoon in place until the flame burns out and then drop the contents of the spoon into the coffee. (Serves 1).

Landau's Coffee: In a skillet melt 4 Tablespoons of sugar and continue to heat until the sugar has turned a golden brown caramel color. Dip the rims of 6 wine or brandy glass into the hot caramel and then let the carmel drip down the outside of the glasses. After the caramel has cooled, place 1 teaspoon of brown sugar, 1 measure of creme de cacao liqueur and 1 measure of anisette to each glass. Pour in strong hot coffee until about 1/2 cm. from the rim of each glass and then top with well chilled whipped cream.

Marnissimo: Pour one measure of Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur into a wine or brandy glass and then pour over a hot strong cup of coffee. Add sugar to taste, stir well and then top with well chilled whipped cream.

Cafe Diablo: Stick 20 whole cloves into an unpeeled orange and then place the orange, 1 piece of orange peel, 1 piece of lemon peel, 2 sticks of cinnamon, 10 cubes of sugar and 1 measure of cognac into a flameproof bowl or casserole dish. Add six cups of very strong coffee and gently return to a boil. Remove the orange and place it in a soup ladle with another measure of Cognac. Over a very low flame heat the ladle and then carefully set the cognac aflame. Return the flaming orange to the hot coffee and serve while still flaming, taking care not to burn yourself.

© Daniel Rogov