There is no better place to become familiar with German wines than on that stretch of the Rhine River between Koln and Weisbaden. Such a trip serves other purposes as well. First of all, because the drive in either direction is one of the most beautiful in all of Europe, it is well worth renting a car for a day or two to make the trip, thus allowing you to stop as often as you like. In addition to massive hilltop castles, tiny post-card wine villages that hug the shores of the river, and steep wooded hills of terraced vineyards that rise above the riverbanks, this drive includes the kind of dramatic and romantic scenery that exists nowhere else on the continent. Above all, this is the region of Germany that produces some of the world's finest white wines.

My own favorite starting point for exploring the Rhine is Koln. With nearly one million inhabitants, this has been one of Germany's major commercial, intellectual and ecclesiastical centers since the city was founded in Roman times. In fact, because of its many banking and business interests, more Israeli businessmen visit Koln and its neighboring city of Bonn than any other European cities. What is extremely surprising is that unlike nearly all other German cities, Koln has an atmosphere that is best described as "light".

Go to Berlin, Frankfurt or Stuttgart and return to Koln and you will understand what I mean. Returning to Koln is like passing through a decompression chamber and coming into a lighter, easier atmosphere. Lightness means people who fence with epees that have rubber tips instead of with sabers. It means sauces without flour, men and women who are not afraid to dress elegantly, politeness without obsequiousness. It also means an absence of the heaviness and tone of insistence that dominates so many German conversations.

Lightness, in this case also means "French" and after even a short visit one might justifiably think that Koln is German only by accident. In fact, Koln is so French that at least 25% of the residents speak French as fluently as they do German, and it is one of only two cities in Germany that also have a French name and more than half of all Germans refer to the city as Cologne. Even more, Koln is the only city in Germany where wine and not beer is the beverage of choice.

The French soul of Koln is more than a coincidence and has much to do with the fact that during the 9th century Charlemagne, the King of the Franks and the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire established his capital in Aachen, just 70 kilometers from Koln, and kept his summer residence in the city because the view of the river reminded him of Paris.

Like the people of France, the citizens of Koln enjoy eating and drinking. The city has more cafes and bars than any other German city and, in addition to a large number of traditional German eating places, the city also has several truly fine restaurants that serve lighter, more modern forms of German cuisine. There are even several excellent French restaurants in the city. Chefs in Koln are not especially inventive, but they are not embarrassed by this. In fact, they like to boast openly that no local chef has ever invented an important dish. So open are they about this that they often borrow freely from the recipes of other chefs - especially such well known French chefs as Jacques Maximin, the Roux Brothers, Anton Mosimann and Jacques Cagna. To give the chefs of Koln credit, however, when such purloined dishes are offered on the menu, there is frequently a note attached that informs diners of the origin of the recipes.

As in all of Germany, in addition to traditional restaurants, Koln's eateries fall into several distinct categories. A Gasthof is an informal inn where light meals are served; Ratskellers, which serve heavier meals, are traditionally located in the cellars of the city hall (the Rathaus); Biergartens are outdoor beer gardens where the food served is generally limited to omelets and a huge variety of sausages; and Weinstubes are restaurants that feature a large selection of the local wines. The city also has a great many Konditoreis, cafes where cake and pastries, invariably accompanied by cups of excellent coffee are the fare. Although the most charming of Koln's Konditoreis are located in the square surrounding the Cathedral, restaurants of all sorts are scattered throughout the city. Going along with the traditions of the city, the following list includes not only the very best of Koln's restaurants but several of nearby Bonn as well.

Bado-La Poele d'Or
Komodienstrasse 50 - 52, Koln
Telephone 0221 - 134100

Despite the heavy Tutonic furnishings and hushed, formal atmosphere, the food is so light and sophisticated that many consider this one of the best restaurants in Europe. The dishes are as close as one will get to nouvelle cuisine in Germany and the onion soup with bone marrow and saffron, the salmon and sour cream omelet, the trout with lemon-ginger sauce, the fricassee of lobster with fresh noodles and the rabbit with applesauce are excellent examples of the fare here. Closed on Sundays and Monday lunch. Reservations required. Dress is casual chic. Very expensive.

Chez Alex
Muhlengasse 1, Koln
Telephone 0221 - 230560

The extraordinary collection of antiques, the fine 17th and 18th century paintings on the walls and the deep leather seats mark this indelibly as an upscale restaurant. The food is as memorable as the decor. On my last visit, my companion and I dined on the terrine of spiny lobster and sweetbreads with herbs, the iced melon and grapefruit soup, the chicken fricassee with baby vegetables, and the lamb fillet Provencale with Roquefort sauce, all of which were superb. I have also sampled the saffron lobster risotto, the wild mushroom raviolis, and the truffled zucchini squash with their flours, all of which have been magnificent. Reservations required. Jacket and tie required for men. Closed Saturday dinner and Sunday. Very expensive.

Weinhaus im Waldfisch
Salzgasse 13 (Between the Heymarkt and the river), Koln
Telepone 0221 - 219575

The black and white gabled facade of this 425 year old restaurant is unforgettable as are the traditional specialties that are served here. For lunch start off with the Himmel und Erde (Heaven and Earth), which consists of pureed apples and potatoes topped with slices of blood sausage or the reibekuchen, potato pancakes served with apple sauce and then go on to the fillet of beef with wine sauce or the hot pigeon pie. For dinner consider the sauerbraten, which is a slowly marinated sweet and sour beef pot roast served with potato dumplings, red cabbage and stewed fruits. If its something lighter that appeals, try the crayfish in champagne sauce, which is truly marvelous. Reservations suggested for dinner. Dress is informal. Closed weekends. Prices are moderate.

Gastatte Fruh am Dom
Am Hof 12 - 14, Koln
Telepone 0221 - 236618

Justifiably one of the most popular restaurants in the city, this former brewery has bold frescoes on its vaulted ceilings, and a surprisingly light even though completely authentic German atmosphere and cuisine. The reibekuchen (potato pancakes served with apple sauce), rabbit casserole with red cabbage, wild duck with pears, braised veal in white wine, and hunter's chicken with cherries are all worth trying. If the weather is good, be sure to dine outdoors in the beer garden. Reservations required. Dress informal. Prices are moderate.

Dom Hotel
Domkloster 2A, Koln
Telephone 0221 - 20240

With its stunning location right by the cathedral, this gracious, old fashioned, formal hotel, boasts old world elegance and the kind of discreet, efficient service rarely found today. The flower filled public rooms are grand, the large antique filled bedrooms have extraordinarily high ceilings and the service is so close to perfect that it should serve as a model to hotelliers and restaurateurs the world over. The hotel is very expensive, but even if you cannot afford to stay here, be sure to stop at the terrace coffee bar for a five p.m. snack. The lobster sandwiches, the artichoke and potato pancakes and the eggplant mousse are among my own favorite dishes here. For dessert try any of the rich cakes or the excellent ice creams. Very expensive.

Schaarschmidt
Siegfried Leopold-Strase 88, Bonn
Telephone 0228 - 460056

This highly acclaimed and extremely popular restaurant is worth a special trip. In season you will find the best asparagus in all of Germany here. Lamb is the specialty here and among my own favorites are the lamb fillet with kidneys, the lamb medallions with chicken-liver sauce and the lamb chops with bell pepper sauce. Also consider the roast squab and the smoked salmon with avocado mousse (which was borrowed from a recipe by Anton Mosimann). Reservations required. Dress informal. Closed Mondays. Expensive.

Das Haus Daufenbach
Bruderfasse 6 (near the church of St. Remigius), Bonn
Telephone 0228 - 6379944

Behind a stark white exterior one finds the one of the most distinctive and traditional restaurants in the city. The mood is rustic, with simple wood furniture and antlers on the walls and the food is German through-and-through. Try the Spanferkel (roast suckling pig), the garlic croquettes, the duck breast with oysters, and the roast goose with onion, apple and celery stuffing. Reservations suggested. Dress informal. Closed Sunday dinner. Prices are moderate.

Em Hottche
Markt 4, Bonn
Telephone 0228 - 658596

With its rustic interior and stout and hearty food, this 14th century tavern offers traditional German fare in a very pleasant and informal atmosphere. Try either the kartoffelsuppe (potato soup) or the bacon soup and then go on to the beef, pork and lamb stew, the stuffed suckling pig, the venison pate the apple-stuffed goose and any o the various sausages that are offered. Reservations are not accepted. Dress is informal. Prices are inexpensive.

Culinary Excursions From Koln

Those with a free afternoon or evening will find that the most logical excursion is one that involves a visit to Aachen, the capitol of Charlemagne's Holy Roman Empire in the 9th century. Aachen, which is the other German city to have a French name, is also known as Aix-la-Chapelle. Situated on the Dutch and Belgian borders, this city, which is just 70 kilometers (one hour by train or car) from Koln, has a quiet civilized charm and its casino is one of the most sophisticated in Europe.

Whatever of the sights you choose to see here, be sure to stop at the delightful old coffee shop called Alte Aachener Kaffeestuben before making your way to the casino. After the casino try either of the following restaurants.

Gala
Monheimsallee 44
Telephone 0241 - 153013

Adjoining the casino, this elegant restaurant features dark paneled walls, original oil paintings and regional cuisine with nouvelle touches. The crab bisque, red mullet fillets with black olives, tomatoes and chervil, and roast partridge with sage are all excellent choices. Reservations required. Jacket and tie required for men. Closed Monday. Very expensive.

Zum Schiffgen
Huhnermarkt 21
Telephone 0241 - 33529

A traditional inn where pot roasts, stews and other hearty dishes are the specialties. If venison stew is on the menu be sure to try it. Reservations not accepted. Informal. Closed Sunday and Monday dinner. Inexpensive.

Along the Rhine

Those with a full day to spare will find that one of the most memorable journeys to be made in all of Europe is the one that will take you south to Wiesbaden along the Rhine River. The following eateries are all along this marvelous route. Any will provide you with a memorable dining experience.

In Boppard: The very luxurious and even more expensive Hotel Kloatergut Jakobsberg is located in a castle that has an extensive collection of hunting trophies, suits of armor and medieval rifles. The hotel raises its own cattle and grows Japanese shitake mushrooms, both of which are put to excellent use in their restaurant. Among the best dishes are the veal medallions in goose liver sauce; the venison stew; the grilled wild boar; and any of the dishes based on goose. Reservations required (Telephone 06742 - 3061). Jacket and tie required for men. Prices are expensive.

In Koblenz: The Weinhaus Hubertus (Florinsmarkt 54), which is housed in a half-timbered 17th century building is one of the most atmospheric country-style restaurants in the region. Antiques and dark wood dominate the atmosphere, and the food, which includes marvellous smoked trout, Westphallian ham, roast goose and fresh salmon is ample and delightful. Reservations are suggested (Tele- phone 0261 - 31177). Dress is informal. Prices are reasonable.

In Rudesheim: Located in the heart of wine country, this village is unbearable in the summer when it is flooded with hordes of tourists but delightful during the rest of the year. For lunch or dinner try the "Rudesheimer Hof" (Geisenheimerstrasse 1), a typical inn that features lo- cal specialties, (the calves liver, veal shnitzels, roast goose and fish dishes are all worth trying). Also be sure to try at least a few of the many wines offered. Reservations not required. Dress informal. Prices are moderate.

In Wiesbaden: If you have the time and quite a bit of money to spare, take a room at the Nassauer Hof Hotel (opposite the Kur- park on Kaiser-Friedrich-Pl. 3 -4) and dine at the hotel's "Die Ente vom Lehel". At this formal and elegant restaurant, remark- ably light and sophisticated French and German dishes are the kings and such dishes as beef fillet with red wine and shallots, rabbit fillets with mandarin oranges, and salmon with Choron sauce each make for superb dining. Reservations required. Jacket and tie required. Prices at the hotel and the restaurant are ex- sensive but keep in mind that this is one of the most elegant hotels and one of the best restaurants in Germany. (Telephone 0611 - 133666).

To read about German wines, Click here.

For several traditional Rhine recipes, Click here.

© Daniel Rogov