Belgian Beer is Here

Belgium has never produced a great wine. In fact, despite a few rather amusing efforts in the 1970's, Belgium has never produced a wine worth drinking. That has not, however, stopped the brewers of this North Sea country from producing some of the world's best beers. Nine of those beers have begun making their debut locally and although their prices range from medium to high, all are well worth trying and beer lovers will find them good value for money.

Originally founded by Norbertine monks in 1240, Leffe is one of Belgium's most respected breweries and their "Blonde" is one of the world's best known beers. Light gold in color, light in body, and with a 6.6% alcohol content, this remarkably refreshing beer has a long lasting head, an aromatic bouquet of cloves, vanilla and English pepper and a light hint of citrus fruits in its flavor.

Two of Leffe's fuller bodied brown beers, their Brown 6 and Brown Triple 8, are also now widely available. Many think that the major difference between the two beers is that the first has a 6.5% alcohol content and the second 8.2%. They are far different than that, however, the first having aromas and flavors of apples and pears, the second of lemon and vanilla, and the second being far heavier in the mouth.

Also making their appearance worldwide are two beers from Hoegaarden, the best known of which is probably their White Beer. Made since the 15th century in the small village from which the brewery takes its name, this beer is unusual because instead of being clear it is cloudy and hazy. This unusual appearance results from a high wheat content and because the beer, which is fermented a second time in the bottle, is intentionally left unfiltered. With a 5.5% alcohol content, this thirst quenching beer has a thick, creamy head, and hints of coriander and dried orange peel in its flavors and aromas. Also from Hoegaarden is their Grand Cru, a distinctly peach colored beer. With its high 8.7% alcohol content, the beer has a fruity aroma in which one finds generous hints of orange peel and spices and complex, somewhat sweetish flavors that lingers nicely in the mouth.

Even though Kwak is a relative newcomer, being made for only 200 years, this is probably Belgium's best known beer. Some say that the beer is so famous because it is served in a special glass that is tapered from the top and then widens to a balloon shape on the bottom. Others, including beer critic Michael Jackson, say that the beer is famous because it is so tasty. Personally, I find it difficult to drink from those special glasses but because this medium-light beer is so full of flavor and richness, I am even willing to put up with that ritual.

Also becoming available are three versions of the beer from Kasteel. Of the two that come in short, stubby bottles, one is medium light with a peach-orange color and the other is a fuller-bodied brown beer, Both are rich in flavor and both hint generously of fruits and yeast in their aromas. The third, which comes in Champagne style bottles is a remarkably dense beer that fascinates with its layers of sweetness and bitterness, fruits and flowers, hops and yeast.

The Ongoing Success of Guiness

To listen to most Irishmen, it would be difficult to tell whether they drink Guinness Stout because they like the taste or because of the medical-sexual mythology they have built up about it. Among other things, many Irishmen believe that Guiness adds to their physical strength and their sexual potency. In fact, so firmly do they hold to these beliefs that babies are bathed in it, young children are given it to drink with their breakfast, and many male adults drink a bottle or two prior to what they hope will be their sexual encounter of the evening.

If the truth be told, the aphrodisiac effects are primarily psychological, bathing babies in Guinness has the effect of giving them a slightly sour smell, and there is no medical evidence to support its strength-giving claims. In fact, because the beverage has a mild laxative effects, drinking too much of it produces rather unaesthetic side effects, and there is no question that drinking too much of it has an adverse affect on sexual performance.

None of which is important, for by any standard, Guinness is one of the world's most delicious beverages. Although many people outside of Ireland refer to Guiness as beer, it is far more accurate to categorize it as stout because in addition to having a higher alcohol content than most beer, it also has a far darker color and features aromas and flavors that hint generously of malt. Equally important, Guinness has a heaver content of hops than most beers.

Guinness, which has been widely available on draught and in tins in many countries, has already developed a large following, especially in pubs where it is featured as a house specialty. Now, with the introduction of tins that promise to give us both the foam and flavor of draught Guiness, that popularity seems ready to increase dramatically. To my great surprise, the new tins actually allow pouring a glass of stout with as thick, heavy and long lasting foam as if it had come from the barrel.

The secret is that in the bottom of each can is a small plastic bubble that has been filled with nitrogen gas. When the can is opened, the nitrogen is released into the beer, causing a lovely foamy head and small but just sharp enough bubbles. The result is a full, rich beer, with tempting aromas and flavors that fill the mouth and nostrils nicely.

This is a beverage that should not be missed. Be sure, however, that the cans are cooled in the refrigerator for a minimum of two hours before serving. If the cans are opened when too warm the stout will bubble out uncontrollably, making a mess of one's table top and clothing.

Popular But Banal

As if to prove that popularity and high quality do not always walk hand in hand, I recently re-tasted three imported beers, each of which is an international best seller but none of which has anything very special to recommend it.

Stella Artois, for example, which is produced in Belgium, has for many years been one of the most popular beers in France. The beer has a medium deep gold color, forms a good head when poured and has an attractive mild level of bitterness. If I strolled into a Parisian or Brussels bar or cafe on a hot day and was given a glass, I would probably enjoy it. On the other hand, however, this is nothing more than a rather standard mass produced beer and I doubt very much that I would go out of my way to search for it.

Equally not offensive but equally banal is the Efes Pilsener beer now being imported from Turkey. Despite its attractive blonde color, the beer has a head that fades far too quickly and flavors that are just a bit too anaesthetized lacking bitterness or richness.

Also new to many markets is Labatt Ice, a Canadian beer supposedly special because it is brewed in tanks whose temperature have been reduced to 0 degrees Celsius. As hard as I could try, I could find nothing special enough about this beer to make it drinking a second time.

© Daniel Rogov