Rogov's Ramblings
Taverna Dining - The Best of Greece

Unless otherwise noted, each of the following traditional recipes is designed to serve 4 - 6.

Asparagus with Egg and Lemon Sauce
Asparagi me Avgolemono

For the asparagus:
24 large or 48 small fresh asparagus
1 Tbsp. olive oil
juice of 1 large lemon
dill, chopped, for garnish

For the avgolemono sauce:
6 egg yolks
juice of 2 lemons
1 cup chicken or beef stock
salt and pepper to taste

Trim the stems of the asparagus and cook the asparagus in boiling salted water with the lemon juice and oil added, just until tender.

While the asparagus are cooking, prepare the sauce by beating together the egg yolks and lemon juice and then adding these to the stock. Over a low flame, stirring constantly, cook until the sauce has thickened. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste and set aside to keep hot until ready for use. (Note: This sauce, probably the most popular throughout Greece, can also be served with many vegetable, meat and fish dishes).

When the asparagus are tender lift them out gently with a slotted spoon and let drain. Pour the avgolemono sauce over the asparagus, sprinkle with the dill and serve at once.

Fish Roe Salad
Taramosalata

125 gr. tarama (dried, salted, pressed cod roe) (can be found in many delicatessens and specialty shops)
3 slices white bread, with crusts removed
2 Tbsp. onion, grated finely
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 egg yolk
1/2 tsp. white pepper (or more to taste)
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
black olives and lemon wedges for garnish

In a blender or using a mortar and pestle, combine the tarama, bread, onion and garlic and pound these together to form a paste. Add the egg yolk and pepper and mix well. Add, alternatively, small amounts of olive oil and lemon juice, mixing thoroughly at each addition, until the salad is at the consistency of a thick, smooth puree. Refrigerate. Serve well chilled with fresh bread and garnished with black olives and lemon wedges. (Serves 4).

Yoghurt and Cucumber
Salad Tzadziki

4 small cucumbers, peeled and in small dice
2 - 2 1/2 cups yoghurt (use only thick, firm yoghurt)
1 - 3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. dill, chopped finely
juice of 1 large lemon
salt to taste

Salt the diced cucumbers lightly and let stand, covered, for 1/2 hour. Drain the excess liquids that accumulate. Combine the cucumbers with 1 cup of the yoghurt and the remaining ingredients. Mix gently but well. If the mixture is overly stiff, add yoghurt. Correct the seasoning, refrigerate and serve well chilled with bread slices.

Stuffed Goose w Chestnut Dressing
Greek Hina Me Kastana
A recipe from Taverna Myrtia

1 goose, about 3 1/2 kilos, ready for the oven
salt and pepper as required
2 Tbsp. butter
1 medium onion, chopped coarsely
2 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
1/2 kilo chestnuts, shelled and halved
6 large apples, peeled
1 large lemon
2 Tbsp. dry white wine

Trim all excess fat from the goose. With a dry cloth rub the goose inside and out and then sprinkle the cavity generously with salt and pepper.

In a skillet melt half the butter and in this saute the onions and garlic until the onions are translucent. Add half the chestnuts and saute for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the flame.

In a small bowl, dice 3 of the apples and add this to the skillet. Mix well and with this mixture stuff the bird, sewing closed. Rub the bird with the cut lemon, season well with salt and pepper and place on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast in an oven that has been preheated to 180 degrees Celsius until the bird is done (about 3 1/2 hours), pricking the skin every half hour to let excess fat run out.

In a skillet melt the remaining butter and in this lightly saute the remaining apples, which have been sliced, and the chestnuts.

Remove the bird to a preheated serving platter and set aside to keep warm. From the pan skim the fat and discard. To the pan juices add the dry white wine. Heat through, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan well, correct the seasoning and strain into a gravy boat. Garnish the bird with the fried apple slices and chestnuts and serve hot. (Serves 6 - 8).

Herbed Liver
Sikotakia

1 kilo calf's or beef liver, in 1/2" (1 cm) thick slices
1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
2 Tbsp. each olive oil and butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
1/2 kilo baby onions
1/2 cup dry white wine juice of
1 large lemon
1/2 tsp. each dried rosemary, oregano and thyme
1 Tbsp. parsley, chopped coarsely

Trim the excess tissues and remove the veins from the liver. Pat dry on toweling. On a plate combine the flour, salt and pepper and in this dredge the liver, coating well and then shaking off the excess.

In a large heavy skillet heat the oil and butter and in this saute the garlic for 2 - 3 minutes.

Plunge the onions into a pot with a large amount of rapidly boiling salted water. Let boil for 10 minutes, drain and run under cold water. Allow to drain dry and then saute the onions in the skillet with the oil-butter mixture until the onions are nicely browned. Remove the onions and garlic with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Reheat the oil and butter in the skillet (adding more if the skillet has become too dry) and in this brown the liver on both sides and cook until done as desired (ideally still pink inside). Remove the liver to a pre-heated serving platter and set aside to keep warm.

Remove the skillet from the flame and add the wine, lemon juice, rosemary, oregano and thyme. Stir well and add the onions and garlic. Heat and over a low flame, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan until warmed through and then pour over the liver. Sprinkle over with the parsley and serve immediately.

Baked Shrimp with Feta Cheese
Garidhes Me Feta
A recipe from Zefiros

2 Tbsp. olive
1 cup spring onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cups tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 Tbsp. butter
1 kilo shrimp, peeled
1 Tbsp. each lemon juice, ouzo (or arak) and parsley, chopped
1/2 tsp. each pepper and dried tarragon
1 1/4 cups feta cheese,
crumbled black olives for garnish

In a large, heavy skillet heat the oil and in this saute the onions and garlic until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes and wine and simmer for 12 - 15 minutes.

In a separate skillet melt the butter and in this saute the shrimp just until they are pink (3 - 5 minutes), taking care not to over- cook. Sprinkle over with the lemon juice, add the ouzo, tarragon, parsley and pepper and mix well. Transfer the shrimp to a casserole dish. Pour over the tomato mixture and remaining butter and stir gently but well. Sprinkle over with the cheese and with a wooden spoon press the cheese lightly into the sauce. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 190 degrees Celsius just until the mixture is bubbling. Dot with the olives and serve.

Spinach Pie
Spanakopita

1 kilo spinach, well washed
1/2 cup butter, melted
4 Tbsp. olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
125 gr. Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese, grated
3 Tbsp. kefalotiri or Parmesan cheese, grated
1 cup spring onions, chopped
100 gr. philo pastry leaves

Shake off as much water from the lettuce as possible. In a heavy skillet heat 2 Tbsp. of the butter and the olive oil and in this saute the spinach, covered, over a high flame, until steam appears. Reduce the flame and simmer until the spinach is tender (5 - 6 minutes). With a slotted spoon remove the spinach from the skillet and chop coarsely. Return to the skillet and season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a small mixing bowl combine the cheeses, spring onions and salt and pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the spinach and mix well.

Butter a square casserole dish or cake tin and in the bottom place 6 leaves of the philo dough. Brush the top of each leaf with butter before covering with the next leaf. Over these spread the prepared spinach and cheese mixture. Cover this with 6 more leaves of the dough, again buttering the leaves and also buttering the top. Be sure that the edges of the pastry are well buttered and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 175 Celsius for 30 - 40 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes and invert on a baking dish. Return to the oven until the top is crisp and golden-brown (about 10 minutes). Serve hot or at room temperature. (Serves 4 - 6).

Red Mullet Grilled in Vine Leaves
Barbounia Kaftia

12 red mullets (barbounia) or sardines, about (180 gr) each, cleaned
36 large vine leaves
1 cup olive oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 Tbsp. each thyme and chives, both chopped
4 - 6 cloves garlic, chopped finely
4 bay leaves, crushed
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, crushed coarsely
1 tsp. salt

Place the fish in a shallow dish. Mix together the oil, lemon juice, thyme, chives, garlic, bay leaves and pepper and pour this over the fish. Cover and let marinated for 3 - 4 hours, turning occasionally.

With a slotted spoon remove the fish, reserving the marinade and wrap each fish in 3 of the vine leaves, folding one over the head, one over the tail and the last around the center of the fish. Brush the wrapped fish with the reserved marinade and place a well greased grill over hot charcoals or under a hot broiler. Broil or grill for 4 minutes on each side and serve the fish in the leaves. Serve piping hot, ideally with a rice or potato dish. (Serves 4 - 6).

To read about restaurant dining in Athens and Pireaus, click here.

© Daniel Rogov

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