In the last five years, the only distilled alcoholic beverages that did not suffer decreasing sales were tequila and Irish whiskey. In 1998, for example, Irish whiskey managed to sell as much as it did in the previous three years. During the same period the sales of tequila actually increased by nearly 6%. In fact, according to many observers, tequila has become so popular in recent years that it is now the worldwide beverage of choice among status conscious young professionals, university students and members of the bohenian set Visitors to pubs in Greece, Turkey, Israel and Lebanon can testify to the fact that tequila is as much the rage in the Eastern Mediterranean as it is in Europe and North America.

Produced only in the mountainous region near the city of Guadalajara in west-central Mexico, real tequila must be made entirely from the hearts of the blue agave plant. Although many North Americans consider the agave a cactus, it is actually a member of the amaryllis family of plants. The process of making tequila begins when workers cut out the pineapple shaped hearts of 8 - 10 year old agave plants. Known as "pinas", the hearts are then sent to one of the 40 distilleries in the region where they are cut in half and heated in huge brick and stone ovens. The heating process softens the fibers and the hearts are then pressed to obtain the juice. After the juice is fermented and twice distilled, the resulting liquids are ready for bottling or aging.

Tequila comes in three basic quality levels - silver, gold and anejo. Silver tequila is rarely aged and, because it is bottled very soon after distillation it has a rough, raw taste and a stinging bite on the tongue and on the back of the throat. Gold tequila is generally aged for about a year in large 220 liter oak barrels that are made with a mixture of new oak and oak that has been previously used to age bourbon whiskey. Anejo, or ultra-premium tequila, is aged from one to four years, and this extra aging gives it smoothness, complexity and depth of aroma and flavor.

The best way to discover which tequila is most suited to your taste is to invite friends for a tasting party at home. Most experts agree that you should serve between four and six different versions of tequila at such parties. Less than four will not give adequate room for comparison and more than six tends to confuse the palate of all but professional tasters. Because tequila loses many of its subtleties when mixed in cocktails, each tequila should be served neat to give you a best chance to evaluate it. Most also agree that for tasting purpose, tequila should be served in wine glasses because these give you the best chance to appreciate the complex aroma of the tequila you are sampling.

Unlike wine tastings, where food tends to confuse the palate, tequila tastings should always be accompanied by foods such as guacamole, unsalted corn chips and fried beans because tequila is at its best when served with food. Take care, however, that the foods are not so highly spiced that they burn the palate, because this will destroy your ability to discriminate between the various beverages you are tasting. To clean the palate between tastings, bite into a slice of fresh lime and drink a glass of cold water, because this will help you keep the impressions of each tequila separate.

When deciding on which tequila to buy, do not be impressed by companies that claim that theirs is the "only real tequila" or by the expensive glass bottles that are sometimes used. Do, however choose labels that clearly state that the tequila in the bottle is made from "100% Blue Agave". After a series of formal tastings, the following are those tequilas that I consider of exceptional quality:

Cuervo 1800: Probably the best selling tequila in the world, this extremely smooth drink has a robust but fruity bouquet that hints of fresh herbs and oak.

Camino Real Gold: Many enjoy the hint of pepper in the bouquet of this smooth, easy to drink tequila.

Dos Reales Anejo: With its unusually deep amber color, rich bouquet and hint of sweetness in its taste, many compare this tequila to Cognac or Armagnac.

Herradura Anejo: Some object to the fact that in addition to the aroma of fresh herbs this tequila also has a hint of gasoline in its bouquet. Others, however, adore it, claiming that the rich flavors of pepper, nutmeg and oak and its extreme smoothness make this the best of all tequilas.

Porfidio Anejo: The aroma of mushrooms and the flavor of fruits come together in this very smooth tequila, making it one of the most popular versions available.

Sauza Conmemorativo Anejo: The sweet bouquet of this tequila, which also hints of cherries and white pepper and its unusual sweet/sour taste make this a very stylish and delicious beverage.

Sauza Tres Generaciones Anejo: The intriguing bouquet of this tequila hints of pine needles, pepper and fruits; the taste is definitely peppery; and many like its warm, pleasant aftertaste.

Sauza Hornitos: This is a semi-dry tequila whose bouquet reminds one of a mixture of pepper and anise and whose taste calls to mind peaches, apples and pears.

Patron Anejo: In addition to good, well rounded flavor ,one of the great charms of this tequila is its bouquet of grapefruit, orange and mint.

El Toro Gold: The peppery, assertive bouquet of this tequila, its slightly sweet flavor and its graceful smoothness make this a justifiably popular drink.

© Daniel Rogov