The cities of Epernay and Reims, both located in the heart of Champagne country, are only about two hours from Paris by car. Before making the journey, however, one will do well to realize that the grapes of this region have not so much produced wine as they have a mythology. More than any other wine, Champagne is associated with a superior way of life. Attributed a soul, a temperament and qualities of wit and wisdom, many Frenchmen are convinced that Champagne, like an old and loyal friend, can do them no harm, no matter how much of it they drink. Madame de Pompadour declared that "it is the only wine that makes a woman more beautiful after drinking". Josephine Beauharnais, the not-always faithful wife of Napoleon, wrote to her sister that "the thought of making love without a bottle of Champagne alongside my bed is merely silly".

So highly regarded is Champagne that Madame Clicquot, wife of the founder of one of the great Champagne houses once reacted angrily when a visiting Englishman complemented her on the quality of her wine. "My good man", she told him, "we do not make wine here. What you are drinking is nothing less than bottled sunshine".

Since the 5th century, when Clovis, the first king of France drank a glass of non-sparkling Champagne at his coronation, the bottle of Champagne has been an emblem of French civilization. To the noted essayist Michel Montaigne, Champagne was an cure for alcoholism, the ray of sunshine in the trenches, the ideal glass of morning cheer, a cure for indigestion and the perfect aphrodisiac. Montaigne may have exaggerated a bit but Champagne has become so much a part of the culture of France that the Frenchman who rejects it has to explain and justify his attitude, for if one does not believe in Champagne he is sick, disabled or depraved.

I had come to Epernay because Moet et Chandon, one of the best known producers of Champagne, had invited me to dine and spend the night at the Chateau de Seran, the luxurious country house they maintain outside Epernay for a few fortunate guests. The dinner that awaited me, like everything else at the Chateau, was magnificent. An ultimately dry and sparkling cold non-vintage Moet et Chandon Brut, was served before dinner and, like all of the Champagnes at the chateau, this was served in tall tulip-shaped glasses, allowing the bubbles to rise from a single point at the very bottom and well suited to capture the bouquet of the wine.

The opening course of foie gras en croute was perfect and perfectly complemented by a non-sparkling semi-sweet Champagne. The following course, simple but pleasing chicken breasts Fedora, was much enriched by a bottle of magnificent Chateau Haut-Biron, 1970. Full bodied, rich and elegant, the wine had both balance that is hard to match. Nor could one fault the Prague ham a la Chablissiene, a ham that had been poached in Chablis wine, coated with finely chopped vegetables and mushrooms, baked, and then treated to a Perigueux sauce. The ham was accompanied by a bottle of Pommard Arvalets, 1982 that had just the right touch of coarseness and intensity of character. Dinner closed with a Victoria cake and the closing wine was a phenomenally good 1966 Dom Perignon, a Champagne particularly well known for its robustness and backbone. Our meal had started at eight and ended at one in the morning but, as if to prove the magical powers of these wines, I was wide awake and a stroll in the starlit vineyards proved very refreshing.

The next morning found me twenty meters underground, touring the caves of Moet et Chandon. Carved by hand in the chalky soil of the region, these caves stretch for 32 kilometers beneath the town of Epernay and contain some nearly 40 million bottles. Cold the year round, the soil and the temperature helps the wines stored here to mature in the slow and balanced way that results in the best Champagne. All in all, the caves at Epernay and Reims extend for over 360 kilometers, and in them one can find the vintages of Mumm, Piper-Heidsieck,Veuve Clicquot, Bollinger, Krug and fifteen other "great houses." To say that one is better than another is merely to state a preference for the style and character these vintners produce, for all are of the highest possible quality. Nearly all of the caves are open to tours by the public, and no visit to the region can be considered complete without such an expedition.

The caves are cold, but I lost my chill when we returned to the beautifully paneled dining room on the ground level and a breakfast of eggs benedict, an asparagus souffle, and poached salmon, all accompanied by a velvety soft Dom Perignon. Any wine other than a Champagne to accompany our breakfast would have seemed out of place.

The remaining daylight hours were devoted to driving along the small roads that weave in and out of the vineyards, to a well needed nap and to a light lunch of an omelet, a green salad and a single glass of an undistinguished but charming red Coteaux Champenois, one of the non-sparkling wines of the region. In the evening it seemed only appropriate to drive to Reims, there to dine at the culinary paradise of Gerard Boyer.

With his restaurant is located in the sumptuous Chateau de Crayeres, Boyer holds forth like a prince. His is a classic but highly personal culinary style, one that draws heavily on local produce and is always finely executed. The perfectly grilled escalope de foie gras showed finesse, the lamb chops Talleyrand were inspired and the gratin of raspberries provided a delicate ending. Others of the dishes I have feasted on here include Boyer's asparagus with oyster sauce, fricassee of lobster with morel mushroms and his spectacular veal kidneys served with leeks, mushrooms and spring onions, all of which are superb. With 118 different Champagnes on the wine list (Boyer has no desire to offend any of the wine merchants of Reims or Epernay who come to dine here regularly), my choice was difficult but I started off with a split of extra dry Perrier-Jouet. Afterwards, I continued with a simple but robust bottle of Swiss Fendant to accompany our main course. Some might question our choice of a white wine with the lamb chops, but I make no apology for my choice. I closed out our dinner with a small glass of marc de Champagne, a distilled wine made from the residue of grape skins, seeds and stems after the juice has been pressed out for the Champagne.

Recommended in Champagne Country

Boyer: Chateau de Crayeres, 64 Blvd. Henry-Vasnier, Reims. Service until 21:30. Closed Monday. Reservations required. Telephone: 26.82.80.80. As described in the text, Boyer is one of France's most talented chefs and his restaurant is worth a special trip. Expensive but well worth the money.

Le Vigneron: 13 rue de l'Universite, Reims. Service until 21:30. Closed Saturdays, Sunday afternoons and most of August. Reservations required for dinner. Telephone 26.88.00.31. The kitchen of this 17th century house turns out fine regional cooking, and the Reims ham with grapes, pike in Champagne, and shrimps in Champagne vinegar are all marvellous.

Le Chapon Fin: 2 pl. Thiers, Epernay. Service until 21:00. Telephone: 26.51.40.03. A reasonably priced establishment where the service is friendly and warm, the regional cuisine is always good and the prices are always reasonable. My own favorite dishes here are the fish steaks with mustard sauce, the coq au vin, and the chicken in a well peppered Champagne sauce.

Royal Champagne: in the village of Champillon, 5 km. North of Epernay on route N52. Service until 21:30. Telephone: 26.51.25.06. Reservations recommended. Set in a country style inn, with large windows and a of view Epernay and the vineyards of the Marne valley this may not be one of the greatest French restaurants, but it is surely one of the most charming. The kidney ragout, chicken friccassee in Champagne and poached scallops are all worth trying.

Hotel Bristol: 76 p. Drouet-d'Erion, Reims. Telephone 26.47.35.08. Small, comfortably elegant and reasonably priced, this is a good choice as a base while visiting the caves of the different Champagne houses and touring through the area.

Chicken Medallions Fedora

4 chicken breasts, boned and trimmed
about 2 1/2 cups chicken stock
about 3/4 cup butter
4 cucumbers, with the skin, cut in " cm thick rounds
8 slices white bread, without crusts, halved
1/4 cup sweet cream
1/4 cup Veloute Sauce (recipe follows)
salt and pepper to taste

Lightly flatten the chicken breasts and cut out oval pieces about 6 cm long. Place these medallions on a well buttered metal rack. Place the rack in a large pot and pour over just enough stock to cover the breasts. Bring the stock to the boil, cover the pot and cook just until the chicken is done. Drain and set aside to keep warm, measuring and reserving 1 cup of the stock.

In a skillet melt 1/2 cup of the butter and in this stew the cucumber slices for 3 - 4 minutes. Drain well.

In a separate skillet melt 2 Tbsp. of the remaining butter and in this fry the bread until nicely browned on both sides, adding butter to the skillet if necessary.

In a small saucepan bring the reserved stock to a boil. Boil until the stock is reduced to half its original quantity and then add the sweet cream and veloute sauce and heat through. To serve, place the medallions on the croutons, garnish with the cucumbers and coat generously with the sauce. Serve immediately. (Serves 4 - 6).

For The Veloute Sauce

3 tsp. each flour and butter
pinch of nutmeg
1/2 cup chicken stock
salt and pepper to taste

Bring the stock to a boil.

In a heavy skillet melt the butter and whisk in the flour and nutmeg. Cook over a low flame until the mixture is foaming but not brown. Remove from the flame and let stand for 2 - 3 minutes and then whisk in the stock. Bring again to a boil, whisking continuously and season very lightly with salt and pepper. Reduce the flame and simmer until the sauce has reached the desired consistency, skimming occasionally and whisking every minute or so. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.


Lamb Chops Talleyrand

1 kilo onions, chopped
1 1/4 cups butter
4 cups thick Bechamel sauce
salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
1/2 cup + 2 Tablespoons cup sweet cream
6 lamb chops, about 2 - 2 1/2 cm. thick
1/4 cup each forest mushrooms and regular mushrooms, chopped
about 2 Tbsp. Sherry wine

Make an onion soubise by placing the onions in a generous amount of boiling water and letting boil for 5 - 6 minutes. Drain well. In a skillet heat 1/4 cup of the butter and in this cook the onions just until translucent. Add the Bechamel sauce, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and simmer gently for several minutes, stirring frequently. Rub the mixture through a sieve, pressing with a wooden spoon. Reheat, add 1/2 cup of the sweet cream and another 1/2 cup of the butter and blend well. Rub the surface with a pat of butter and set aside to keep warm.

In a heavy skillet melt the remaining butter. Season the lamb chops with salt and pepper and saute in the butter until done. Arrange the chops so they form a circle on a preheated serving platter and fill the center with the soubise. Set aside to keep warm.

In the liquids in the skillet in which the chops were sauteed, lightly saute the mushrooms. Add the Sherry and, scraping the skillet, stir well. Stir in the remaining sweet cream, let simmer for 2 - 3 minutes and pour the sauce over the chops. Serve immediately. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov