Whether one is visiting the fairytale castles built by King Ludwig the Mad, a fine restaurant in Munich, or a small wine bar in the village of Garmisch, it becomes immediately apparent that there is something distinctly different about Bavaria. Despite the fact that Munich has a population of more than 1 1/2 million, the city retains the charm and atmosphere of a small villagelike town. Wherever one travels in the countryside, one comes across magnificent buildings that add Baroque splendor to even the most rural setting. And, at least since the days of King Otto I, nearly 1,000 years ago, Bavarians, perhaps more than any other Europeans have been completely devoted to eating and drinking.

The most popular tourist destination in Germany, Bavaria has been described as having made "two perfect marriages, the first between kitsch and class and the second between vulgarity and elegance". Munich itself is a city of exquisite Rococo buildings and smoky beer cellars, of soaring Gothic churches, of super-modern shops and of pale stucco buildings. It is a city where millionaires and lederhosen-clad farmers share the same restaurants and bars. Once outside the city, the Bavarian countryside boasts magnificent Alps, crystal clear lakes and rivers filled with fresh trout, pike and bass, fairy-tale castles and villages where the buildings are painted with bright frescoes and window boxes are filled with flowers.

No matter where one travels in Bavaria, food is the most inescapable pleasure of life. Whether in homes or in restaurants Bavarian food is simply prepared, wholesome and hearty and large portions are the norm rather than the exception. The favorite dish of the area is the schnitzel, and there are so many styles offered that it is useful to have a guide to just what is what. First of all, Bavarian schnitzels are made only from veal. Bavarians are correctly flabbergasted to learn that in some nations, so-called schnitzels can be made from chicken, turkey or fish. A naturschnitzel is sauteed without breading; Wiener schnitzel is breaded but served without sauce; rahmschnitzels are covered with cream sauce; Jagerschnitels are served with a sauce based on sour cream and mushroms; and shnitzel a la Holstein is topped with fried eggs, anchovies and capers and surrounded by garnish of luxury foods such as smoked salmon and caviar.

Restaurants in Munich and The Rest of Bavaria

Keep in mind that Munich is considered the gourmet capital of Germany and the two most sophisticated restaurants in the city are "Aubergine" and "Tantris", both of which at one time or another have earned two or three stars in the Michelin Guide. The food at both of these establishments is superb but do not even think of entering unless you plan to part with about $150 per person for a three course meal including wine. For excellent but far more reasonably priced country-style cuisine try the charming Nurnberger Bratwurstglockl or the Franziskaner.

Aubergine: Maximilianspl. 5. Telephone 598171. Jacket and tie required for men. Reservations required.

Tantris: Johann-Fichter-Strasse 7. Telephone 362-061. Jacket and tie required for men. Reservations required.

Nurnberger Bratwurstglockl: Frauenpl. 9. Telephone 220385. Reservations suggested.

Franziskaner: Peruastr 5. Telephone 231-8120. No reservations? required.

Outside of Munich

In Bad Wiesee: Freihaus Brenner. Freihausstr. 4. Telephone 0O? 08022/82004. Try especially the rabbit in raspberry sauce, the fresh lake fish and the magnificent desserts. Anything the waiter suggests will be excellent. Very expensive. Reservations required at least two days in advance.

In Berchesgaden: Hotel-Restaurant Geiger. Stanggass. Telephone 0?? 08652/5055. The mountain trout here are among the best in the world. Also consider the stuffed quails, the stuffed goose and the saddle of venison which comes with a strawberry sauce. In- formal and moderately priced. Reservations suggested.

In Ettal: Poststurberl, Hotel Zum Post. Kaiser Ludwig P. 18. 08? Telephone 08822/4637. Fish and game are the specialties in this charming country inn. After your meal be sure to try one of the cakes. Prices surprisingly reasonable. Reservations suggested.

In Garmisch: Posthotel Partenkirchen, Ludwigstr 49. Telephone 0;? 08821/51067. My personal favorite in all of Bavaria, the tra- ditional Bavarian dishes here are always perfect. Moderate to Expensive. Reservations suggested.

In Oberammergau: Alte Post. Dorfstr. 19. Telephone 08822/1091. 0?? This 400 year old inn offers excellent local cuisine at very reasonable prices. Reservations not required.

For recipes for several traditional Bavarian dishes, click here.

© Daniel Rogov