There are few cities in the United States more strikingly beautiful, more crime free or cleaner than Seattle. Rising steeply from the water to the west, the city is located along the eastern shore of Puget Sound. Built on seven hills, the city has a panoramic view of the harbor and also faces a darkly forested range of mountains. Although most Washingtonians take their capital city for granted, reality tells us that a mere century ago, Seattle was little more than a muddy, unkempt village populated primarily by hunters, whores and thieves. With the great Klondike gold rush f 1891, Seattle leapt from village to city almost overnight, the city prospering far more than the miners who streamed through it.

Seattle is as close to a North American gastronomic paradise as one might wish for. The area known as the Pike Place Market, often thought of as the soul of the city, overlooks both the harbor and the waterfront. Six blocks long and four wide, the hundreds of shops that make up the market go down six stories on the cliff-side. The upper level of the market is devoted to the sale of fresh foodstuffs. In a market some compare in its magnificence to that of Venice, scruffy farmers sell their magnificent lettuces, tomatoes, and eggplants; fishmongers sell an abundance of fish and seafood that have been caught in the sea as well as in the lakes and rivers of the state; and butchers sell some of the finest beef, veal and mutton that is raised in the United States. Nothing in this market happens quietly, but everything happens in a warm and friendly fashion. Best of all, the market rules demand freshness, local preparation and local ownership, so even though you may find farmers' wives selling their home made jams and freshly baked breads here you will not find a single product that has been made in a commercial factory.

The market is so huge that one can easily get lost. There is, however, no chance of starving, for in addition to more than two hundred take away food stands, most of which feature either seafood or ethnic foods (McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Burger King and Kentucky Fried Chicken have all been banned from the market), there are thirty seven restaurants here - Chinese, French, Vietnamese, Bolivian, Kosher Jewish, vegetarian, Korean, Ukranian, Scandinavian and American, nearly all of which offer excellent food at surprisingly reasonable prices. The very best of the restaurants in the market area are the Athenian Inn, which features an amazing array of fresh fish (poached, pan-fried, grilled or coated) and the Alexis Hotel, which features inventive French-Italian style cuisine, one of the finest wine lists in the United States and a rare level of superb service.

There are also dozens of restaurants along the waterfront, and the best of these is Elliot's, which features oysters, smoked fish, shellfish (be sure to try the King Crab legs and fresh crabs), all served with locally made ale and wine. Wine lovers especially adore Elliot's because the wine list has 84 selections, mostly local and nearly all offered by the glass.

Even the best (and thus more expensive) of the more formal restaurants in the city are within walking distance of the Market. At Campagne (86 Pine Street, Tel: 206-728-2800), you will find the ingredients of the Northwest prepared with Provencale overtones. For a starter consider either the freshly made Montrachet cheese that is served with slices of the homemade foccaccia and a bulb of roasted garlic or the smoked salmon with capers and chive vinaigrette. As a main course, it is difficult to decide between the fresh salmon with fennel and the lamb chops in a red wine sauce that has been flavored with thyme.

Another well known favorite in the city is Kaspar's (2701 First Avenue. Tel: 206- 623-4450). Located just six blocks north of Pike Place Market, the restaurant has a breathtaking view that includes Mount Rainier and the harbor below. It also has some of the best food in the city. Chef-owner Kaspar Donier has managed to make a subtle combination of the flavors of southwestern America with those of Asia and the Pacific Northwest. His crab and chopped vegetable salad in sushi rolls and his smoked salmon and goat cheese enchilladas are delightful, as are his seafood specialties. Do not, however, overlook the duck, steak, lamb and pasta dishes as well, for all of these can be excellent.

Ten miles north of the city center, Ray's Boathouse is an obligatory stop for dinner at sunset overlooking the water. The wine list includes over two hundred selections (including 100 Washington wines) and the menu is intelligently limited to the freshest fish and seafood that were brought in the same day.

Worth a special trip from Seattle is the one hour drive east to the tiny city of Snoqualamie, where the outdoor parts of "Twin Peaks" was filmed. Once there stop at Salish Lodge (also used in the television series). This grand hotel is especially renowned for a six-course brunch that features dishes like salmon with wild-rice pancakes, crab meat and scrambled eggs in strudel dough, and spicy venison hash. The wine list is encyclopedic, and the tiny Snoqualamie Winery, which is gaining a good reputation for its red wines is nearby.

Those specifically interested in touring Washington Wine country but who have only a limited amount of time to spare will enjoy taking a one day excursion on the train known as the Spirit of Washington. This luxuriously appointed train makes an ten hour round trip that includes a stop at Chateau Ste. Michelle winery, goes round the shore of lake Washington, crosses a 300 meter long wood trestle high above the river, and through some of the most breathtakingly beautiful forest land that exists anywhere in the world. The dining car on the train offers excellent fare, specializing in a variety of dishes made from the salmon that remain soabundant in local waters.

To read about Washington State Wines, click here.

© Daniel Rogov