As if Boris Yeltsin didn't have enough troubles, social scientists have come to the almost unanimous conclusion that vodka was not invented in Russia. According to Russian historian Boris Uspensky and American ethnologist Allan Morris, the beverage we now know as vodka made its first appearance in the 11th century in southwestern Europe where it was distilled on the island of Majorca. Later, the Majorcan philosopher and alchemist Ramon Lully shared the formula with the Genoese who eventually passed the technique on to Eastern Europe. Once the Russians discovered vodka they quickly adopted it as their own. Drunk neat, icy cold and in a single gulp from a small glass it was the ideal accom- paniment to the heavy, oily foods adored by both nobility and peasants.

Today, good vodka can come from nearly anywhere in the world. Among the best known brands are Absolut from Sweden; Finlandia from Finland; Smirnoff, which is made in the United States; Stolichnaya, from Russia; and Wyborowa from Poland. And, as if to demonstrate that vodka is big business, the people that make and distribute Absolut vodka spend more than one hundred million dollars every year on their eye-catching, often amusing and sometimes even brilliant advertisements. Nearly everybody loves these ads, but there is no concensus whatever on which vodka is the best because people who enjoy drinking this potent, clear colored drink have a passionate, almost mystical loyalty to their favorite brand name.

In a recent series of tastings, in an attempt to maintain my sanity and my sobriety, I tasted only twenty of the vodkas available I found on the shelves of various stores. Included in my tastings was the recently appeared "Chopin". Smooth, clean and refreshing, this Polish version is almost as good as the very best and comes in an attractive designer bottle that boasts a portrait of the well known composer after whom it is named. What I cannot understand is why anyone would pay the high price being asked for it.

Brand Name / Country / Score

Absolut / Sweden / 92
Tanqueray / England / 92
Absolute Kurrant / Sweden / 92
Wyborowa / Poland / 92
Chopin / Polandv 91
Brilliant / Scotland / 91
Finlandia / Finland / 90
Absolut Pepper / Sweden v90
Smirnoff / United States / 89
Stolichnaya / Russia / 86
Dubrovka / Poland / 84
Danzka / Poland / 82
Grizzley / United States / 82
Moshovskaya / Russia / 80
Royalty / Holland / 80
Ursus / Holland / 76
Zytnia / Poland / 75
Luksosowa / Poland / 73
Alexandrow / Holland / 60
Kegelvich / Israel / 60
Svenska / Scotland / 55

One Small Recipe

One of my own favorite vodka based drinks originated in pre-Khomeni Iran. Known as "abdug" the drink is made by mixing equal quantities of soda water and plain yoghurt in a tall glass. Pour in a measure of vodka, place a pinch of salt on the surface and then add a sprig or two of mint. As unlikely as the combi- nation may sound, I recommend it as delicous and highly refreshing.

© Daniel Rogov