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Author Gerald Durrell called truffles "a gift from
the gods"; and chef Alain Chapel referred to them "as the
essence of paradise". Jacques Centreux, a truffle dealer in the
Perigord region of France is a bit more pragmatic when he describes
them "as the only item of food that is more precious than gold".
In fact, so highly valued are they that in 1974 when a Parisian banker
discovered that his cook had served the last truffle in his cupboard
to two of her friends, he shot her. The investigating magistrate refused
to bring the banker to trial, stating that this was obviously a "crime
of passion, completely understandable and completely forgivable".
Like so many good things, truffles were first introduced into the world
of haute cuisine by the Italians. In fact, even though truffles had
been popular among the wealthiest of the ancient Romans, the French
only learned that they were edible in the 16th century when Catherine
de Medici came to France to marry the future King Henry II. Since then,
although a few people have objected to their smell, gastronomes all
over the world have been in general agreement that these round, pungent,
wrinkled black fungi which are usually 2 1/2 to 5 centimeters in diameter
are one of the highlights of the culinary world.
Truffles are basically rare fungi that grow underground, often in the
shadow of what experts refer to as "truffle oaks". Although
some people can predict the general area in which truffles will be found
in any given season, the truffles can only be found by animals. Not
any animal can be used, for only the specific genetic trait for smelling
underground truffles will do, and this seems to be most highly developed
in certain strains of pigs and dogs. A pig or a beagle that is capable
of finding truffles is considered so valuable that their owners often
treat them better than they do their wives, their children,
their mistresses or their bankers. So valuable are these animals that
in 1985 a Frenchman who was convicted of stealing two truffle pigs was
sentenced toforty years in prison.
Buying truffles is never easy. First of all, they are always expensive.
Second, even though the world's finest truffles are the black truffles
that come from the regions of Perigord and Lot in France, only the peasants
who pick them and the experts who later sell them know from precisely
where any given truffle originated. Amateurs are often fooled and, even
though the truffles of Provence and the regions of Dauphine, Burgundy
and Normandy are quite good, they should be sold for nearly half the
price of those from Perigord. The white truffles of the Piedmont area
in Italy are also considered valuable but cost only about one-third
of those found in the best regions in France. The few white truffles
that can be found in the Judean Mountains of Jerusalem and in the Beka
Valley of Lebanon are, frankly, second class
These rare, subterranean fungi are among the most esteemed items that
can appear on any table. To prepare fresh truffles, wash them several
times, scrubbing well. Slice thinly (saving the parings for later use
in soups or sauces). Add to dishes only at the end of cooking to avoid
overcooking. If you are lucky enough to come across a supply of truffles
and do not plan to use them immediately, wrap them tightly in aluminum
foil and freeze them. So long as they are not defrosted and refrozen,
the original freezing process will not harm the flavor of the truffles.
To prepare tinned truffles (unlike other mushrooms, truffles do not
suffer too badly by being tinned if they are later prepared properly.
Wash the truffles and then soak them in warm water and scrub them under
fresh running water. Peel them, taking care to remove all of the earth
that has been deposited in the holes and folds. Season the truffles
with very fine salt mixed with pepper and let them stand in the open
air for 2 hours. About half an hour before using the truffles, place
them in a shallow bowl and pour over a tablespoon or two of Madeira
wine. Let them stand for another half hour and then use them as you
would fresh truffles. Keep in mind that a partially used can of truffles
can be frozen. Also remember not to discard the liquids in the tin,
because these can be used to make truffle essence or in making sauces.
Especially important in buying tinned truffles is to be sure that the
can is solid to the feel. A tin that pops in and out from pressure probably
contains elements that have spoiled the truffles and may even be poisonous.
If fresh or tinned truffles are too dear for your budget, consider purchasing
tubes of truffle essence. Although these cannot be used in recipes calling
for the use of whole truffles they are reasonably priced for use in
making sauces.
Truffles are used in decorations with scrambled eggs and omelets, in
meat stuffings and pates and in sauces. Following are several recipes,
each of which will be outrageously expensive, but all of which will
provide lifelong memories of excellence.
Truffles a la Creme
450 gr. (l lb.) truffles, peeled and cut into thin slices
salt and pepper to taste
Cognac or other brandy to taste
about 2 cups of sweet cream
3 Tbsp. Bechamel sauce
about 3 Tbsp. butter
In a saucepan pour water over the truffles to barely cover. Bring just
to the point of a simmer and then reduce the flame to a minimum, letting
the truffles simmer for 30- 45 seconds. Drain the water (do not discard,
the water will be excellent in making sauces or in seasoning soups),
season the truffles lightly with salt and pepper and then sprinkle over
lightly with Cognac.
In a separate saucepan bring the sweet cream just to a boil and pour
this over the truffles. Return to the boil and then remove the truffles
with a slotted spoon, setting them in a deep dish. Return the cream
to a boil, add the Bechamel sauce and stirring regularly continue to
boil until only about 1 cup of liquids remain. Add the butter, correct
the seasoning with salt and pepper and then pour the sauce, boiling
hot, over the truffles. Serve at once as a first course. Wine match:
Champagne or a fine Australian or Oregon Pinot Noir.
Zucchini Flowers Stuffed With Whole Truffles
A recipe by Chef Roger Verge
1/4 cup butter
1 Tbsp. shallots, minced
1/2 kilo very white champignon mushrooms, rinsed, dried, finely chopped
and sprinkled
with 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper
1/4 cup + 1 Tbsp. sweet cream
2 egg yolks
6 very small zucchini flowers (can substitute green cabbage leaves)
6 fresh or tinned truffles, about 15 gr. each
1 cup cold butter, cut into pieces
1/2 kilo young tender spinach, washed well and with the thick stems
removed
In a heavy saucepan, melt 1/4 cup of butter over a medium heat. Add
the shallots, mushrooms and salt to taste. Cook, mixing with a wooden
spatula, for 3 - 4 minutes and then strain the mushrooms through a stainless
steel strainer, reserving the liquid. Return the mushrooms to the saucepan
and cook over a medium to high heat just until they lose their moisture
(about 3 minutes). Remove from the heat and reserve.
In a mixing bowl, whisk together the sweet cream and egg yolks. Pour
this mixture over the mushrooms and mix well. Transfer the mixture to
a small saucepan and cook over a low heat for about 2 minutes; season
to taste with salt and pepper and spoon into a bowl to let cool.
Gently open the petals of the zucchini flowers, spread a little of the
mushroom mixture inside and place a truffle in the middle of each flower.
(If using cabbage leaves, spread the mushroom mixture on the leaves,
top with the truffles and roll up into small packages). Place the zucchini
flowers on a small rack and reserve.
In a small heavy saucepan combined the reserved mushroom juice and any
truffle juice. Reduce over a medium to high heat until only 3 Tbsp.
of liquid remain. Over a medium heat, whisk in the cold butter, 2 Tbsp.
at a time, and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to keep warm.
Steam the filled zucchini until tender (about 15 minutes).
To serve: Divide the spinach among 6 large plates and arrange the zucchini
on top. Coat with a little of the reserved mushroom- truffle sauce and
serve at once. (Serves 6).
Asparagus Wrapped in Noodle Dough with Parmesan Cheese and Truffles
A recipe by Eran Shroitman of Tel Aviv's Tamuz Restaurant
1/2 kilo asparagus
100 grams black truffles, sliced as thinly as possible
coarse Gironde salt (can also use regular coarse salt)
For the sauce:
600 gr. sweet cream
150 ml. vegetable stock
30 gr. grated Parmesan cheese
For the noodle dough:
200 gr. sifted flour
8 egg yolks
1/2 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. water
Prepare the noodle dough by mixing all of the ingredients together
and kneading lightly, adding water or flour according to need. Form
into a ball and let the dough rest in the refrigerator for at least
2 hours. Transfer the dough to a dry, flat working surface and roll
out as thinly as possible (an even better option is to roll out the
dough in a pasta machine if one is available).
Cut the asparagus to the length of the serving plates and with a peeler,
peel the lower thirds and remove any of the small leaves that remain
on the stalks. In a pot, boil generously salted water and in this poach
the asparagus, cooking only until they are al dente (still showing resistance
to the teeth).
While the asparagus are cooking, heat the vegetable stock in a saucepan
and in this poach the pasta leaves for 2 - 3 minutes (depending on their
thickness). Remove the pasta leaves and set aside.
To the saucepan add the sweet cream and cook over a medium flame until
the mixture begins to thicken. Add the Parmesan cheese, transfer to
a blender and blend until the sauce is homogenous throughout.
To serve, drain the asparagus and distribute them in the center of
4 serving plates. On this lay the noodle dough and over this drip the
Parmesan sauce. Over all distribute the truffle slices. (Serves 4).
Truffled Potatoes
Of all the potato based dishes I have enjoyed in my life, none matches
either the simplicity or the absolute elegance of the potato salad with
truffles served by Alain Senderens about a decade ago during his reign
at Paris' l'Archestrate. The dish started twenty four hours before it
was served when fresh, whole, cleaned truffles were coated lightly in
oil and then left to stand overnight. Shortly before serving, boiled
potatoes were sliced, the truffles were grated over the potatoes and
over all was sprinkled a vinaigrette sauce that contained olive oil,
sherry vinegar, red wine vinegar, chopped chervil, parsley, chives,
salt and pepper. Served warm, the dish evoked such paroxisms of pure
hedonistic pleasure, that even the cost of the dish, a rousing FFr 300
(in today's terms, about FFr 500), did not upset me in the least.
Risotto with Truffles
Risotto con Tartufi
Although this dish is traditionally made with chicken stock, there
will be no loss of flavor if you use a concentrated vegetable stock.
6 - 8 cups vegetable or chicken stock, ideally home-made
1/2 cup butter, melted
1 medium onion, chopped finely
2 cups long grain rice
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
60 gr. (2 oz.) white or black truffles, sliced thinly (may use more
if desired)
salt and pepper to taste
Bring the stock to a simmer and maintain the simmer but do not boil.
In a large heavy skillet or saucepan heat half the butter and in this
saute the onions until golden. Stir in the rice and continue to saute,
stirring continuously, until the rice is well coated. Over a low flame
add 1 cup of the stock and cook, stirring regularly, until all of the
stock is absorbed. Add another cup of stock and continue cooking and
stirring regularly, using only enough stock to continue the process
until the rice is tender. This process should take about 20 - 25 minutes
in all and the rice, although it should not stand out in individual
grains as with a pilaf, should not be reduced to the state of a porridge.
Immediately before serving stir in the cheese and remaining butter.
Mix well and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately,
with the truffles on the top. (Serves 6 - 8).
© Daniel Rogov
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