Everybody (yes, dammit, absolutely everyone) seems in agreement that 1997 has produced more than its share of truly great Tuscan wines. Until a few days ago, I had tasted only (only, he says) the Tignanello and Solaia of Antinori and the Guado Al Taso of Bolgheri. Today (16 October 2000) I re-tasted those wines and four more and I need no further convincing. These wines are expensive, in fact very expensive, but by heaven they are worth every hard earned dollar, pound, mark or shekel one will have to pay for them.

Antinori, Tignanello, 1997: Piero Antinori often produces excellent wines but this one is exquisite. Made, as it always is, from about 80% of Sangiovese and 20% of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this full bodied wine is blessed with superb balance between its smooth tannins, fruitiness (look for currants, wild berries, and stewed black cherries) and vanilla. With flavors and aromas that open in the glass and on the palate, and then linger on and on, seemingly without end, this is a wine to be treasured as one of Tuscany's very finest. Drink now if you must but ideally hold for another 3 - 5 years before starting to sample its charms. About $80. Score 97. (Tasted three times: 12 Jul, 25 Aug and 16 Oct 2000 with consistent notes. These notes first posted July 2000)

Bolgheri, Guado Al Tasso, Tenuta Belvedere, 1997: Another wine from Antinori, and if his '97 Tignanello (reviewed above) was not enough, this one certainly guarantees him a permanent place in paradise. Full bodied, toasty and with remarkably rich currant, berry, mineral and floral aromas and flavors, this remarkably well balanced wine has flavors that continue to burst forth on the palate and then linger comfortably long after the wine has been swallowed. At its best with fine beef dishes and with the very finest Italian cheeses you can find. Smooth tannins make the wine approachable now but it will only be at its best between 2005 - 2015. About $60. Score 95. (Tasted 25 Aug 2000 and 16 Oct 2000 with fully consistent notes. These notes first posted Sept 2000)

Isole e Olena, Cepparello, 1997: Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes, this full bodied wine is packed with tannins and flavors of berries, tobacco and cedar (you might confuse it at this age with a fine Brunello). A wine that should age comfortably for 20 years or more, so look for the spicy plum accent to develop over the years. Already delicious, but as someone once said (forgive me, I don't remember who), drinking this wine would be akin to committing infanticide. About $50. Score 97.

Isole e Olena, Cabernet Sauvignon, Collezione de Marchi, 1997: Taste this wine alongside the 1990 Chateau Latour and be amazed by the resemblance despite the national and age differences. A stupendously beautiful wine, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvigon grapes and with layer after layer of cherry, berry, mint, chocolate and even tobacco that overlay an abundance of smooth tannins. Barely approachable now, the wine promises to store nicely for up to 30 years. About $75. Score 97.

Antinori, Solaia, 1997: The very best Solaia and one of the very best Tuscan wines ever made. Antinori's unique blend between Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc grapes, this still young wine already shows superb balance between smooth tannins, fruits (black currants, cherries, plums), spices and vanilla. Full bodied and with flavors that explode on the palate and then linger on and on, seemingly without end, this is the stuff of which dreams are made. Score 97. (Tasted three times, 12 Jul, 27 Aug and 16 Oct 2000)

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Bolgheri Ornellaia, 1997: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this full bodied wine is little short of magnificent. Full bodied and loaded with black cherry, chocolate and oak flavors that open, seemingly without end in the mouth. Elegant and sumptuous, the wine is approachable now but will develop nicely in the bottle for many years to come. About $125. Score 97.

Frescobaldi, Merlot, Castelgiocondo Lamaoine, 1997: A truly great Merlot, possibly the best ever made in Italy and easily comparable to the best of Petrus. Smooth, ripe tannins, flavors of plums, currants and black cherries that linger on and on make this full bodied but still very young wine already bold, ripe and irresistible. Resist though, for even though the wine is approachable now it will be far better in 5, 10 and even 15 years. About $70. Score 97.

© Daniel Rogov