Rogov's
Ramblings
Two
Traditional Florentine Dishes
|
To read about visiting and dining in Tuscany and Florence, click here. Sogliola Cestello 3 sole, filleted, with bones and heads reserved for use in the
stock For the Stock: Make the fish stock: In a large heavy saucepan melt the butter. add the onion and saute until the onions are translucent. Add the bones and heads of the fish, pour over the wine and 2 cups of water and then add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil and then immediately reduce the flame, allowing the stock to simmer very gently for 20 minutes. Strain. Make the Hollandaise: In a heavy saucepan combine the egg yolks with 1 Tbsp. of water and a pinch of salt. With a whisk beat until the eggs are foamy. Place the pan over the lowest possible flame and continue to beat until the eggs are thick and creamy yellow. Beat in the lemon juice and then slowly add the butter, beating constantly. As the sauce begins to thicken, add the butter more rapidly until it has all been added. With a small pat of butter coat the surface and keep warm in a double boiler over hot water. To make the Veloute: Bring 1 cup of the stock to a boil and immediately remove from the flame. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and to this blend in the flour. Cook for several minutes, stirring regularly, but do not brown. Add the hot fish stock all at once, beating well and then cook the sauce over a lowflame until it thickens. Remove from the flame and beat in the cream. Coat the surface with butter and keep warm. Prepare the Dish: Place the remaining fish stock in a heavy skillet, bring to the boil and then reduce to a bare simmer. In this stock poach the fillets just until they are opaque (2 - 3 minutes). Carefully remove and drain the fillets. Set aside to keep warm. Butter a flat, ovenproof baking dish and in this arrange the fish fillets in an overlapping pattern. Mix the two sauces together and season to taste with salt and pepper. If the sauce is overly thick, thin by adding a small amount of the fish stock. Spread the sauce over the fish and over all sprinkle the Parmesan cheese. Place in a preheated very hot oven until the sauce is brown and bubbling (10 - 15 minutes). Serve immediately. Crepes Spinacci 3/4 cup milk Combine the milk and four and blend them thoroughly to make a smooth batter. In a 18 cm. crepe pan (or other similarly sized skillet) melt 1 Tbsp. of the butter. Turn the pan to make sure the bottom and sides are well coated and, when the butter is hot, spoon in enough batter to form a thin pancake. Cook the pancake on both sides and then set aside. Repeat the process until all of the batter is used, stacking the pancakes one on top of the other. Add butter to the pan only if the pancakes begin to stick. Rinse the spinach well under running water and drop into a large saucepan with an ample amount of boiling salted water. Bring again to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, rinse under cold water and drain. Chop the spinach finely. In a separate saucepan boil the onion in water for 10 - 15 minutes. Remove the onion from the water and slice. In a skillet melt the remaining butter and in this saute the onion slices until translucent. Add the spinach and continue to saute for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the flame, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and mix well. On each crepe place 2 Tbsp. of the mixture and sprinkle over with grated cheese. Roll the pancakes and place them on a well greased baking dish. Over the top sprinkle the remaining cheese and place in a hot oven until the cheese has melted and is golden brown. Serve hot. (Serves 6). © Daniel Rogov |
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