It is said that Cardinal Richelieu was the consummate politician, the ultimate misogynist and a superb host. Born Armand-Jean de Plessis in 1585 and later elevated to the rank of Duke, this distinguished politician manipulated two kings and all of France for nearly twenty years. As a devoted hater of women he established the Academie Francaise as a male bastion in reaction to the female domination of the intellectual life of his times. And, as a host he served sumptuous dinners that to this day serve as models for exquisite, cultured and delicate dining.

Even though invitations to his dinners were sought after by nearly everyone, historian Sanche de Gramant writes that "no Frenchman before or after Richelieu has ever had as many enemies". It did not surprise his guests that wherever the Cardinal went there were three bodyguards and an official taster who always sampled whatever food was placed in front of his master. Richelieu lived to the age of 57. His taster, Philippe Gravier, who came from Corsica, lived until the age of 98. After Richelieu's death, Gravier returned to his native island, there to open a tavern in the village of Alleria. Now a small hotel and restaurant, the family of Gravier still proudly holds court there.

No one is quite sure just who first devised the recipes that follow, but both dishes meet the highest standards of French haute cuisine.


Filets of Foie Gras Richelieu
Goose Liver Fillets Richelieu

For the Maitre d'Hotel Butter:
1/4 cup butter, at room temperature
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp. white pepper
1 tsp. parsley, chopped finely
1 Tbsp. lemon juice

For the Foie Gras:
butter as required
6 large mushroom caps, sliced thinly
breadcrumbs as required
salt and pepper to taste
8 slices of foie gras (goose liver)
2 eggs beaten with 1 Tbsp. water

Make the maitre d'hotel butter: With a wooden spoon, cream the butter. Add the salt, pepper and parsley and blend in thoroughly. Stirring constantly, very slowly add the lemon juice, mixing in well. Refrigerate and use only when the butter has become solid.

Prepare the foie gras: In a small skillet melt 2 Tbsp. of the butter and in this saute the mushroom slices just until heated
through.

Season the breadcrumbs to taste with salt and pepper. Dip the foie gras slices first in the eggs and then in the breadcrumbs, coating well. In a heavy skillet melt 2 Tbsp. more of butter and in this fry the fillets until golden brown on both sides (add more butter only if the skillet becomes dry). To serve, garnish the fillets with the mushrooms and on each fillet place several dabs of the maitre d'hotel butter. (Serves 8 as an appetizer).

Note: This dish may be made using fillets of sole or boneless chicken breasts that have been pounded flat.



Richelieu Cake

For the Cake:?
3 cups almonds, pounded finely
2 egg whites
2 1/4 cups sugar
16 egg yolks
1/2 cup Marschino
1/2 cup butter, melted
1 1/4 cups flour, sifted
10 egg whites, beaten stiff
1 cup highest quality apricot jam
several drops vanilla extract

For the Frangipane Cream:
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup flour, sifted
pinch of salt
2 eggs and 2 egg yolks
4 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. almond extract
2 cups boiling milk
1/2 cup butter, melted
1 cup almonds, finely crushed
1/4 cup Kirsch liqueur

For the Chocolate Icing:
200 gr. semisweet chocolate
2 Tbsp. butter
1 tsp. vanilla extract
pinch or two of salt
2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
1/3 cup milk

In a mixing bowl combine the almonds and unbeaten egg whites with 1/4 cup of the sugar. Mix well and rub through a sieve into a large bowl. Add the remaining sugar, egg yolks, Maraschino and mix with a wooden spoon until the mixture is white. Add the melted butter, sprinkle in the flour and fold in the beaten egg whites, mixing well. Divide the mixture equally in 4 shallow buttered 20 cm. baking pans and bake in a medium oven until a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Turn out to cool on a rack.

Make the Frangipane Cream: In a heavy saucepan combine the sugar, flour and salt. Add the eggs and egg yolks, vanilla extract and almond extract and mix well. Mixing constantly, slowly add the milk. Cook over a low flame, stirring constantly, for 2 - 3 minutes. Remove from the flame, add the butter, crushed almonds and Kirsh and mix thoroughly.

Make the Chocolate Icing: Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler until completely melted. Add the butter, vanilla and salt and then mix together with the sugar, beating hard with a wooden spoon, adding just enough milk until the icing is thick and of a good spreading consistency.

On three of the cake layers spread apricot jam and then a layer of the Frangipane cream. Sandwich the layers together. On the top layer spread the remaining jam and ice the cake with the chocolate icing. (Serves 6).

© Daniel Rogov