The Vintage Ports of 1997 have now become available for tasting and it behooves every serious wine writer to present a special report on the tasting of these wines. As anyone who loves Port wines knows, such a tasting is not a difficult chore, especially considering that the best of the 1997 vintage wines now being released are so excellent. As the well-known Rorschach test (the so-called ink-blot test) calls forth different psychological associations from different viewers, so it is with vintage Ports, and even though there tends to be a consistency in evaluations of different critics, these wines call forth different flavor and aroma associations from many who taste them. For that reason, I heartily suggest that readers wanting to make cross-references refer to the tasting notes of the Wine Spectator and Decanter magazines, both of which can be found on the internet.

At any rate, even though a few of these 1997 wines are approachable now, it would be a terrible waste to drink them until another 8 - 15 years have passed and, as seen in my notes, many will cellar nicely until 2030 - 2050. As always, my scores are based on a maximum of 100 points. Wines rated 95 - 100 are those I consider extraordinary; those that earn 90 - 94 points are outstanding; and those earning 80 - 89 are good to excellent. (Each of the wines reviewed was tasted on 19 August 2000 and several were re-tasted on 20 August).

Delaforce, Vintage Port, Quinta da Corte, 1997: Stunningly beautiful and perhaps the "sleeper" of the vintage year, a wine bursting with plummy fruit flavors, spices and minerals on the nose and with an impeccable balance. Perhaps the very best wine ever produced by this house, and one that will cellar beautifully for another 30 - 50 years. About $85. Score 97+.

Warre Vintage Port, 1997: No less than one could hope for from a lodge that continues to surprise us with what seems to be ever-increasing quality. Loaded with as many woody, mineral flavors as with fruits, this complex and intriguingly delicious wine lingers on and on, new undertones of flavor and aroma developing on the palate and in the nostrils long after the first sips have been swallowed. Approachable in another 5 - 8 years but will cellar nicely for another 30- 50 years. About $60. Score 97+.

Dow, Vintage Port, 1997: Yet another of the mini-masterpieces from this vintage year, this exquisite wine is as rich, concentrated, perfumed and powerful as you could hope for. As deep in color as it is in flavors (look especially for black cherries, chocolate and spices), a wine that continue to open on the palate until it seems almost to overwhelm with its beauty. About $50. Score 96.

Quinta do Noval, Vintage Port, 1997: A stunningly beautiful wine. Lighter on the palate than many vintage Ports but no less elegant and charming for that. Seductive in its almost underplayed fruit and perfumed nose. Don't hesitate to hold this one until 2050. About $95. Score 95+.

Croft, Vintage Port, Qunita da Roeda, 1997: As we have come to expect from this great lodge, this is a rich, creamy and intense wine, as aromatic and packed with flavor as it is powerful, deep and long. Don't even dream of drinking this wine before 2015, and look forward to it developing nicely in the bottle for between 30 - 40 years longer. About $85. Score 94.

Taylor Fladgate, Vintage Port, 1997: So tightly closed is this wine that anyone drinking it now will be extremely disappointed. Give the wine another decade or even two, however, and it promises to mature into a wine of enormous depth and power, revealing deep color, aromas and flavors that will please enormously. About $50. Score 93.

Graham, Vintage Port, 1997: In the best tradition of Graham, this is an opulent wine, with a remarkably complex structure and length. Look for flavors of black cherries, plums, tar. Approachable even now but wait at least until 2010 until starting to drink this luxurious wine. About $50. Score 92.

Ferreira, Vintage Port, 1997: Ferreira produces wines that are often very good but rarely great, so this one, which is outstanding in every way, comes as a major but delightful surprise. Rich and concentrated, with loads of coffee, chocolate, leather, spice and plummy fruit flavors, a wine that will develop nicely for anywhere from 30 - 40 years. About $50. Score 90.

Cockburn, Vintage Port, 1997: Remarkably similar to the 1983 vintage Port from this great house. Full bodied, opulent and rich, with spicy chocolate and intense fruit flavors. Well balanced and concentrated but just a bit short of greatness. About $70. Score 88.

Fonseca, Vintage Port, 1997: If personal biases need to be stated, so be it, and because Fonseca is one of my own favorites this one disappoints only because it lacks the greatness that some of the earlier vintage wines of this great house have had. Don't let that stop you from buying it though, for even though this is an underperformer for Fonseca it remains an excellent wine, loaded with spices, cigar box aromas and fruits, but falling just a bit short on the finish. Perhaps, like the 1977 wine, this one will take another decade or so before it blossoms out to reveal and even greater glory. At any rate, well worth cellaring. About $40. Score 88.

To see my vintage chart for Vintage Port wines, click here:

To read an earlier posted piece about Port wines, click here:

© Daniel Rogov